Mubarakpur
Uttar Pradesh
Mubarakpur Cluster, once known as Mini-Saudi of Uttar Pradesh for its prosperity
and famous for its Bridal Silk Saris is slowly losing its sheen and demand. A
typical Mubarakpur silk sari is at the declining stage of product life cycle.
Unless the value additions in the form of design development as per the
changing tastes and identifying niche market, has not been done it is very
difficult to sustain the product. Even product diversification to Punjabi
suits, dress materials, house furnishings may be ascertained for sustainability
of the cluster.
History of the Mubarakpur cluster shows the rise and fall of its products. Even
the products manufactured have been changed from Ordinary Silk to high-end
heavy Zari Saris to Art Silk (Synthetic) Saris. Today more than 50% of the
production is Art silk saris. Though the profit margin is meager in art silk
saris but enjoys better demand compared to Silk Saris. The active Weaver Force
has been reduced drastically and some of the weavers have opted for other
professions due to lack of work. For the Ordinary Weaver it became extremely
difficult to make both ends meet.
Present Scenario:
As per the Records (1995 – 96 census) there are about 1, 00,000 weavers and
48,000 Looms at Mubarakpur and adjoining areas. But exact weavers force and
Looms in the total cluster have to be mapped. As per the initial estimation the
active weaver force is 40,000 and looms in operation are 20,000)
In addition there are hundreds of traders and ancillary support providers. The
annual turnover form Mubarakpur cluster is estimated at Rs. 50 Crore. About 80%
of the Weaver Workforce and Looms are in the Main Town and the remaining 20%
are spread over in nearby villages.
The main products are Saris and dress materials. The estimated share of various
products is as follows:
Silk Saris
: 50%
Art Silk Saris
: 45%
Dress Materials & Others : 5%
Sarees and dress materials are broadly categorized in to two segments
-
Satin Based (Mainly made of Karnataka Yarn)
-
Organza Type ( Made of Chinese Yarn)
The saris may be categorized in to following types
-
Silk
-
Chiffon
-
Georgette
-
Tusser
-
Kotan & Kora Tissue
About 90% of the weavers are Job Workers who receives Dyed Yarn and design and
produces a woven product and receives wage. There are weavers who are
businessman and invest in buying yarn and may produce according to design
brought by him (70%) or one supplied by buyer (30%).
Most of the weavers who operate one or two looms barring a few are Job Workers.
This condition is more prevalent in Villages.
The weavers who are businessman are often called as “Master Weavers or
Grihasthas “. The master weaver may operate a few looms under his own and enter
in to wage payment relationship with other weavers”.
Some of the Affluent Master Weavers (Grihasthas) have started Co-operative
Societies with wage payment weavers as members. At present 60% of the total
production and 70% of the total sales are done through these societies. In fact
in the villages virtually all the weavers are depending on Societies for sale
of their products.
Though the skill differences across the weavers is not very significant but can
be categorised in two types based on their skill
a) Weavers who produce higher end product like Silk Saris
b) Weavers who produce lower end products like Art Silk Saris
Normally the weaver who is working on a high end product cultivates an eye for
errors and acquires patience and precision.
Wage Fixation process also depends on the above criteria. The wage of a weaver
ho produces higher end product is 50 to 70% higher than those who produce lower
end product.
The Normal Negotiation process is as follows:
-
Weaver first weaves a sari according to sample
-
Estimates the workload
-
Negotiates the weaving charge.
Despite various problems related to Production, Finance & Market (given in
detail in Chapter No V) most of the weavers are reluctant to change their
profession because of following reasons (in the order of merit):
-
Weavers take pride in their profession and feels shameful and loss of dignity
if they switch over to alternative professions.
-
Convenience of working from home is not possible in other professions.
-
Alternative occupational opportunities are not available due to lack of
infrastructure like power, Roads etc. in the area.
Contact Us
Mr. Rizwan
Mubarakpur Handloom Cluster Office
C/o. Dr. Om Prakash, Highway Road,
Mubarakpur, Dist.Azamgarh
(U.P)
Mobile : +91-93699 49407
Email : rizwan_49@rediffmail.com
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