Varanasi
Uttar Pradesh
Banaras Silk Sarees is a name that conjures up diverse images of the rich
Indian tradition. The historians have traced the tradition to 1500 to 2000 BC
with references in Vedic and Buddha literature. It seems that weavers were
earlier specialized in cotton weaving but made a switch over to silk weaving in
the fourteenth century. Around this time again they got specialized in brocade
weaving. Brocade is a textile in which pattern is created in weaving by
transfixing or thrusting the pattern thread between the warp. Zari brocade
entails use of gold (meaning silver thread with gold polish) and silver
threads- real or imitation-thrust either as special weft or warp to create
glittering raised ornamentation. The weave- rich varieties of sarees in
Varanasi are Jangla, Tanchoi, Vaskat, Cutwork, Tissue and Butidar. Apart from
the sarees the other products that have of late been introduced in the cluster
are dress material, stoles, scarves, mufflers and home furnishing items.
Activity of Banaras Cluster
The city of Varanasi houses the district head quarter of Varanasi district that
consists of 8 blocks. There are 45000 active looms in the district that are
spread all over...
The cluster development program for Varanasi under IHCDP of DCHL was initiated
in the year 2006. To start with, Diagnostic Study of the handloom Cluster was
conducted and cluster mapping were been done. After selection of cluster pocket
viz., Ramnagar, Lohta and Kotwa, baseline data has been collected covering 5000
handlooms. The purpose of the data collection was to understand the set of
interventions required for the Cluster Development. Based on this survey, a
report was prepared and required bench marks were established.
Year wise action plan was prepared and the various elements of the action plan
were implemented in different phases. Awareness programmes and Focus Group
discussions with Stakeholders were conducted in different parts of the Custer
to understand the real situation and to validate the action plan. More than
1500 weavers attended the awareness programs from various pockets of the
cluster.
In order to organize the weavers, 108 self-help groups (SHG) of weavers have
been formed, with an average of eleven members in each. These SHGs involve all
the sections of weavers, across castes and communities. Each one of these
groups has a particular amount to be saved monthly and deposited with the group
by each of its members. No. of Capacity building program were organized to
strengthen the capacity of the Groups.
It was realized during the process that it was difficult for a small group of
weavers’ to get into so many things together, with limited resources and time
left after weaving. Therefore, it was decided to form a bigger group out of
these SHGs as well as individual weavers, “Banaras Hathkargha Bunakar Vikas
Samiti Producer Company Limited came into existence. Altogether there are 1554
weavers / master weavers associated with this producer’s company ltd.
Looking to the need of new design developments to cater the need of the
different segments of the Market, Services of NIFT designer was hired to
develop the new designs with the help of Local designers. In the process 96 new
designs were developed on the fabric and tested in different Markets like
retail stores, Exhibitions, BSM etc. This process also helped local weavers to
build their capacities in terms of creating new designs and color combinations.
Facility Available
Colour fastness is one of the concern areas and to address this Two Dye house
has been up-graded with required machines in Public Private Partnership on User
Charge Basis at two cluster pocket viz. Lohta and kotwa. To train the HR about
the good dyeing practices and various types of Dyeing around 13 workshops /
trainings were organized in technical guidance of weaver service Centers and
other agencies. Good quality colours were also made available through NHDC in
small quantity to ensure the expected results. Now these dye houses are
catering the need of whole cluster.
To facilitate the weavers of the cluster a Common Facility Center is being
developed in association with the weavers’ organization “Banaras Hathkargha
Bunkar Vikas Samiti that will cater the requirement of the weavers on user
Charge basis. This CFC will be equipped with Showroom cum Display Centre,
Meeting Room, Weaving Shed, Testing Laboratory and Yarn bank. This CFC will be
instrumental in development of new designs, Display of new/diversified products
to the buyers and visitors, availability of good quality yarns received under
Mill Gate Scheme of NHDC
Exhibitions
With the organized weavers and new designer products, they were given the
opportunity to take part in the exhibitions organized across the country to
understand the need and taste of the customer, to develop them as good
Marketing persons and to sell their products. As a result they have
participated in around 70 exhibitions and sold weaves worth around Rs. 100.37
lakhs so far. Also to sustain the organization linkages with Institutional
buyers is the important requirement and to achieve this No. of Buyer seller
Meets were organized and as a result linkages with the reputed buyers like
Lifestyles, CCIC, UP Handlooms, Fabindia, Sri Design Studio and important firms
from local and outside cluster worth Rs . 2.58 Crores has been received so far.
As a Marketing tool Catalogue in Fabric, Printed and Digital Forms were
developed with all the technical details. Handloom Mark was also promoted and
weavers were encouraged to register for the same.
Contact Us
Mr. Pramod Srivastav
C/o Entrepreneurship Development Institute of India
(EDI)
C/o IIHT & WSC Campus
Varanasi Cantt, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh
Phone: +91-542 - 2201156
Mobile: +91-983836743
Email:
edivaranasi@rediffmail.com
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