Following are there dyes used for cotton garment dyeing:
a) Direct
dyes. (for low
colour fastness) for fashion merchandise for boutique outlets. Which carries
a hand wash separately care label.
b) Reactive
dyes-(for low
colour fastness) best suitable for cotton garment dyeing. Due to good level
dyeing properties and high migration, diffusion properties, both cold brand and
hot brand HE and HEXL dyes can be used.
c)
Vat dyes limited use in garment dyeing.
Economical for jade green shades.
d) Sulphur
dyes used for navies
and blacks.
e) Pigment
dyeing In
conventional exhaust pigment dyeing mainly there are three steps i.e.,
cationisation of the garment, pigmentation and treatment with binder. The above
conventional process requires plenty of water and it is also time consuming
which indirectly affects production. To counter this, Zytex India Ltd, Mumbai
has developed a new system in pigment dyeing called OBOS (one bath one step).
Following are the advantages of this system.
1) Complete
dyeing is carried out in single bath.
2) Intervals
between addition of chemicals is only 5 minutes.
3) Water
saving, equivalent to 3 drains.
4) Dyeing time
is only 80 minutes.
5) 40% time is
saved.
6) Excellent
fastness and good reproductively. The process is as follows.
a) Desizing, /
Scouring
b) Hot wash
c) Cationic
pre-processing.
d) Garment pH
should be neutral and good absorbency.
e) Then add the
following chemicals: anticreasing agent, dispersing cum leveling agent,
polymeric cationising agent for cotton (Zycat PD) runfor 20-30 mins. At 60-70
deg c.
f) Then add a
range of pigment colors specially developed for exhaust pigment dyeing.
(ZY-pigment). Run for 30 mins. At 70 deg c to 100 deg c.
g) Add polymer
based binding cum fixing agent for pigments. (Zyfix PF) then run for 30-40 mins
at 30 deg c to 60 deg c.
h) Rinse,
unload
i) Drying / curing
for binder fixation at 90 deg c to 130 deg c for 10 mins.
One advantage of garment dyeing cotton is that there will be
no problem with shrinkage for the customer. Al the above process is
conveniently carried out in the new generation of rotary dyeing machines.
They are of two types.
a)
Divided
b)
Open-drum
Accordingly the type of mechanical agitation can be
selected, and fitted with a microprocessor controller and a dosing pump; they
can be programmed to run through the full dyeing procedure automatically.
Among the most important chemicals for the garment dyeing
sector are lubricants for preventing marking by creases formed during running
or lying, bleaching and scouring streaks and chafe marks, which are some of the
most common quality impairing problems of garment dyers and jean washers.
Different Color Depth Fabric:
To cut processing time, effluent load, and minimum damage to
fabric and; minimum use of chemical, there are different depth of indigo in
denim. For example, in case of ice wash where we remove more than half the dye
during washing. One can use lighter shade fabric which will help to cut the
process time, chemical consumption, effluent load, it will help garment
processor to process garment processor to process garment more economically and
with minimum faults
Flat look denim: Different chemicals and processes are used to get
flatter look on the denim garments. To meet this requirement special denim
fabric has been developed which offers flat look after washing.