Abstract
An important and target aspect of the fiber-to-yarn
production process is the quality and price of the resulting yarn. The yarn
should have optimal product characteristics, while maintaining as low a price
as possible. To meet this target, Giza 85 Egyptian cotton variety, was chosen
and blended with Sudanese Upland cotton (Acala) and also, with Greek Upland
cotton. Ten different combinations of blend levels including the 100 % fiber
types were performed for two different spinning systems, open-end yarn counts
of 25 Ne and 35 Ne and also, 30 Ne and 40Ne for ring spinning, at constant
twist multiplier 4.0.
Giza
85, Egyptian cotton variety is of higher quality than the two upland cotton
varieties especially in fiber strength, length uniformity, fiber fineness, and
elongation while of low spinning waste. The addition of different ratios of Giza 85 cotton fiber improved the mechanical properties of the Greek and Sudanese cotton
yarns. The Uster provisional 5%, 25% and 50% yarn strength quality levels were
suggested for using the Egyptian/Greek or Sudanese cotton blending, in order to
achieve optimum yarn quality properties and to reduce and control the raw
material cost. The spinners cost could be reduced by trying different
combinations of cotton qualities until matching the one that still allows for
the required yarn properties is found.
Keyword: Egyptian and Upland cotton, blend, ring and
open spinning system
Introduction
An important and target aspect of the fiber-to-yarn
production process is the quality and price of the resulting yarn. The yarn
should have optimal product characteristics, while maintaining as low a price
as possible.
Cotton yarns classed internationally into three categories:
(1) coarse yarns: of count up to 24s. Such counts could be spun from MS and MLS
cottons, to be used for manufacturing cheap fabrics, towels, upholstery
fabrics, etc.; (2) Medium yarns: of count 24 up to 42s. Such count could be
spun from MLS cottons, to be used for manufacturing cheap poplins, knitting
fabrics, etc.; (3) Fine yarns: of count 42 up to 60s and above. Such counts
could be spun from LS and ELS cottons, to be used for manufacturing high
quality poplins and clothes, Abdel-Salam (1998). Blending of two or more
different fiber types is of crucial significance to the textile industry,
Cookson (2000) reported that several interrelated factors might contribute to
the decision to replace a homogeneous textile material by a blend:
- Economy: The decrease of an expensive fiber by blending
with a cheaper one.
- Durability: The incorporation of a more durable
component to extend the useful life of a less durable fiber.
- Physical properties: A compromise to take advantage of
desirable performance characteristics contributed by both fiber
components.
- Color: The ability to develop novel designs
incorporating multi-color effects.
- Appearance: The attainment of attractive appearance and
tactile qualities using combinations of yarns with, for example, different
luster.
Fiber blending is the process of combining different fiber
components, together either of the same fiber type or of different fiber types
to produce a fiber strand (sliver or yarn) of consistent desirable
characteristics. The economical impact of fiber blending is well recognized.
The cost of raw material is the most important economical factor in the make of
a spun yarn. The smallest saving in the cost of raw material could mean a
substantial increase in the companys profit. Proper fiber blending can lead to
a substantial reduction in the cost of yarn manufacturing. A textile process
may use different types of cotton with different quality attributes and prices.
The process of fiber blending should aim at optimizing the cost of the cotton
mix with respect to the desired levels of fiber properties and inventory
constraints, El Mogahzy (2000).
One of the important production processes in the textile
industry is the spinning process. Starting with cotton fibers, yarns are
(usually) created on a rotor or ring-spinning machine. The quality of the
resulting yarn is very important in determining their possible applications.
The three most important characteristics of a yarn are: tenacity, elongation
and corresponding price. The first two characteristics are physical yarn
characteristics, while the third is the price of producing the yarn. The price
depends on the blend of fiber qualities used in the fiber-to-yarn production
process, van Langenhove (2002).