Khadi Silk, Silk Waste, Spun Silk Yarn, Non Mulberry silks

Silk industry in India is an agro based industry. In the process of production of cocoon to fabrics various types of wastes are produced at different stages from Cocoon to fabric / garment. The important categories of the silk waste are:

Pierced Cocoons from Grainages in which moth has emerged.
Unreelable Cocoons which are cut, soiled, irregular shapes, Thin transparent cocoons
Filature waste
Throwsters waste.
Waste produced during weaving, Knitting, cutting waste-Apparel production

Normally above mentioned wastes are the Raw material for the Spun Silk yarn both in Mulberry and Non-Mulberry silks. One of the major byproducts in Sericulture is Pierced Cocoons and Defective cocoons which are not suitable for the production of continuous filament silk. Pierced cocoons give top quality silk. Both Mulberry and Non-Mulberry Unreelable cocoons can be converted as Hand made Nonwoven suitable for QUILTS, Wadding garments.

First step in QUILT is sorting, softening of Unreelable cocoons without pupae through degumming i.e. removal of Sericin-the gum Excess water is squeezed from the degummed cocoons and the cocoons in wet condition are used for making web. Individual wet cocoon is slightly opened by hand and then stretched / pulled from the top along the Bell shaped Web Maker till the base to form a bell shaped thin layer of web. The same process is continued placing 3to 4 layers one above the other as per the required thickness. The web is then removed and dried under shade.

Bell shaped dried webs are placed on table and stretched gently and uniformly on all sides to form a square web / Felt / sheet form. Number of such webs are placed one above the other as per the thickness, length, width of QUILT required (say 7 X 7 x 6) `The Web in spread sheet should be stitched at different places wrapped with the bandage / mosquito type cloth. Finally to add value to the quilt, Dupion silk or printed silk or Embroidered Silk fabric may be used as cover. The stitching method is similar to that followed in preparation of cotton quilts / beds.

Mulberry, ERI, Tassar Unreelable cocoons are suitable for the production of QUILT which will be bulky, light weight and warmer than cotton. Organisations like KVIC, HHEPC, NGOs which are mainly concerned with the promotion of hand made products may implement the technology of diversified utility of Unreelable cocoons for the production of value added products without involving much additional expenditure / infrastructure. In India, Self-Help Groups are promoted by N.G.Os, banks and co-operatives can take up the project. The SHGs have made a lasting impact on the lives of the women particularly in the rural areas. Their quality of life has improved a lot.

About the Author:

The author is an Expert in Post cocoon Technology, Bangalore, India.

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