Research on Natural Dyes at PTRI

The PTRI's relentless R&D efforts in reviving natural dyes in a more scientific approach stirred the interest of the local hand-weavers, high end enterprises and fashion designers which opened doors, showcasing and revealing the majestic and wide ranges of blue color from Philippine indigo and rightfully become the crowning glory of Philippine natural dyes hoping it would catalyze the emergence and spectral rise of the natural dye industry in the Philippines.

The various colors reflect the range of moods and emotions of the cosmopolitan Filipino man," says PTRI's Julius Leaňo Jr., lead researcher of PTRl's Natural Dyes Program and project leader of the Natural Dye Common Service Facility project.

A swarm of colors jazzed up the barong Tagalog as a result of PTRI-developed natural dyes out of uncommon materials such as Philippine indigo (Indigofera tinctora), mahogany (Switennia macrophylla King) barks, yellow ginger (Curcuma longga) rhizomes, sampaloc (Tamarindus indica) barks, young coconut (Cocos nucifera) husks, and talisay (Terminalia catappa) leaves.

According to Leano, PTRI initially developed basic colors such as muted red, blue, yellow, orange, green, violet, brown, and black. "But lately, designers were requesting new colors such as corral orange, bloody red, and others"

"It is really amusing because artists and technologists have different perspectives and appreciation of color. When designers request for a specific color, we really have to sit down together because we textile technologists have a different idea from what they are thinking of. Further, we have to consider a lot of factors in the preparation," he chuckles. He admits that currently, PTRI responds to a demand-driven clientele from the textile, garments, and fashion industry who are closely in touch with color trends.

Marianna Fashion Apparel, makers of "Miguel" barong Tagalong brand, offer its latest barong collection aptly named "kaLiKHAsan" from Filipino words kalikasan (nature) and likha (creation) & nbsp; The collection comprises "100 percent naturally dyed barong materials" and bears PTRl's official seal as proof of authenticity.

But Leaňo acknowledges that naturally dyed products cost about thrice compared with synthetic counter parts. So why would PTRI embark on this kind of project?

Apparently, natural dyes are far more ecologically friendly than synthetic ones. According to Leaňo chemical dyes have been banned in Europe because these are found to be toxic or carcinogenic. Synthetic dyes, when produced in an industrial scale, cause serious environmental pollution.

PTRI initially developed recipes for the use of natural dye crude extracts and then worked on the technology that turns the crude extracts into natural dye powder. Common service facilities (CSF) have b established in Abra and recently in Aklan.

''The Abra facility for some reasons became non-operational. But now we are trying to reestablish it to meet the growing market demands. We have a plantation in Tayum, Abra that could supply materials for dye production," says Leaňo. He also said that thE: facility was envisioned to provide livelihood to Tingguian beneficiaries, in addition to providing a standardized and more cost effective dyeing technology.

Meanwhile, the three-year old Aklan CSF was established in collaboration with Aklan State University (ASU) and with funding assistance from DOST's Technology Incubation and Commercialization Program (TECHNICOM). DOST's Philippine Council for Agriculture, Forestry and Natural Resources Research and Development supervises the project and gives assistance in the establishment of nursery and plantation undertaken by ASU.