In today's competitive business of apparel export, characterisation of quality is an important and indispensable aspect. Global standards in apparel are driven, benchmarked by the major buyers and ultimately product-oriented. Tolerances in the degree of product proficiency cannot be ignored since too slack standards may allow excessively inferior merchandise to pass through, whilst, standard which are too rigid may result in acceptable merchandise being unnecessarily rejected. Thus, quality evaluation of garments as per international standard norms is essential for export. This is not only to ensure a quality product but also to endorse the product safety, prevent recalls, reduce returns, minimise customer complaints and promote repeat sales. It is well known that testing protocols are the summaries of applicable requirements which cover all facets of performance, evaluating safety and quality as well as labelled claims. Due to ever increasing fashion trend, different fibre, construction, style, colour and finish dominate the apparel world to cater the requirements of various categories of customers. But, unfortunately, no single universal characterization protocol is available in the garment trade. Testing protocol changes depending on the fibre and fabric type, weight, style, finish, accessories, country of export and, above all, the intended end use of the product. It is also vital to bear in mind that all standards and regulations encapsulated in the protocol have one or both of the following aims: safety and quality. While related more to general consumer satisfaction, safety is an important concern as products not meeting regulations can jeopardise the health of the purchaser. Thus, characterisation of apparels which are earmarked for export is essential to satisfy both regulation and requirement.

Testing Protocols For Apparel And Related Accessories

Development of a test method depends on simplicity, reproducibility, applicability, cost to perform and time required. The protocol in an apparel testing is a summary of requirements performance, safety, quality and labelled claims. Different parameters are involved in the sub-division of different test protocols. Merchandise category governs such type of characterisation. While some properties are common for different protocols, additional inputs are essential to properly designate the character of apparel. Requirements of different characters vary depending upon the country wherein export is designated. The matrix of different protocols for apparel and accessories is discussed below.

Essential elements in Protocols

Label Verification:

- Country of origin     - Fibre content

- Care Labelling        - Registration (RN) number

- Size                      - Copyright verification

- Stuffed articles label (Canada)

Identification tests:

- Fibre analysis        - Yarn size

- Fabric count          - Fabric weight

- Fabric construction

Washability:

- Dimensional stability

- Appearance in laundering (includes: self-staining, torque, skew, trim/seam durability, trim/garment compatibility, puckering, raspy hand, pill/fuzz etc.)