Major source of customer complaint in apparel market generates from colour fastness of textile products. The fastness of a colour is dependent on the type of dye, depth of shade, colour and process parameters in dyeing. Dyes react differently when in contact with different agents, for instance dyes which may be fast to dry cleaning may not be fast to rubbing or water or perspiration. Keeping such events in view, evaluation of fastness of colours on dyed and printed textile products are mandatory requirement in export. There are a number of factors that the coloured items may encounter during their lifetime which can cause the colour either to fade or to bleed onto an adjacent white or light coloured item. For all practical purposes, the effect of light, washing, dry cleaning, water, perspiration, rubbing/crocking, sea water and chlorinated water cannot be overlooked. A generic trend of colour fastness properties for apparels is indicated in Figure 8 and Figure 9. In case of colour transfer from the surface of coloured textile material to other surfaces by rubbing/crocking, the desired dry and wet staining are 4 and 3, respectively for apparel markets in the globe. But for perspiration and water fastness, rating level varies from 3 to 3-4 in colour staining to the multifiber strips with regard to US and non-US based markets, respectively. However, rating of colour change in major apparel markets remain at 4 in perspiration and water fastness. Colour fastness to chlorinated water and sea water are important for swimwear and beachwear. In both the cases, rating is 4 as far as the colour change is concerned for both US and non-US based market. But requirement of staining on multifibre is slightly relaxed in non-US market i.e. 3-4 with reference to 3 as desired in US based market. Colour fastness to light is an important parameter to decide the quality of garment when exposed to different forms of light. Accepted rating of Lining / underwear is normally 4 in US based market but a more relaxed rating i.e. 3 is acceptable to the non-US segment which is presented in Figure 10. While outerwear is normally accepted at the rating 4 irrespective of any segment of major apparel market, requirement rating differs in swimwear category in which grade 4 and 5 are considered as acceptable to the US based and non-US based market, respectively.

The performance of any kind of apparel can be characterised through various physical parameters. The reasons for performing such tests are many but in apparel testing it is to obtain some indication of probable performance in use. Interaction of fibre, yarn and fabric properties is important in such evaluation. In the apparel industry, normally performance tests are based on tensile, tear, bursting and seam properties. The tear strength of a fabric depends on various factors. Controversial issues are often heard on this property during selection of fabrics in apparel export. Some of the important points which are important but not limited to the following facts such as: higher the value of single thread strength, higher is the tear strength; plied yarn gives higher tear strength than single yarn; twill weave gives higher tear strength than plain weave since twill weave has higher float which gives more grouping of the threads; and high set fabric preclude thread movement, therefore the assistance by thread grouping is greatly reduced. In garment industry, stitching of different areas of a product is a key character to determine the quality. The efficiency of which depends on strength, elasticity, durability, security and appearance of the constructed seam balanced with the properties of the material to be joined. Seam strength/slippage has been considered as extensively used parameter in the apparel trade for acceptance testing of a product manufactured under a particular international brand. Tensile and bursting strength properties are more frequently used parameters to characterise an apparel to predict the useful life in wearing. Due to the nature of test, the former is used for woven and the later one is applicable for knitted goods. General requirement level of performance tests in major apparel markets is same though the unit of expression is different in the US and non-US based market for different merchandise products. A typical presentation can be viewed in Figure 4, Figure 5 and Figure 6, respectively for tensile, tear and seam strength. But in case of bursting strength, benchmark is slightly higher in US based apparel market on similar converted unit of measurement which has been referred in Figure 7. However, the requirement levels vary depending on the product category irrespective of export to US or non-US based market.

Concluding Remarks

The demand on the properties, appearance, and durability of materials and components in the apparel sector has increased significantly in recent years. Simultaneously, increasing competition has forced the industry to progressively reduce costs of end product. In order to meet these changing requirements, and to provide an objective framework for what is acceptable in export to different destinations, quality characterisation of apparels has continuously been attracted attention. It is definitely essential in the perspective of ensuring the right quality, confidence of wearing and protecting the health and safety aspects.