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Different types of weaves
By :   Rahul Garg, Shivendra Parmar
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There two types of weave come under this category i.e. regular and irregular weave.


a)    Regular basket weave: This is commonly used for edges in drapery, or as a bottom in very small weave repeats, because the texture is too loose-fitting for big weave repeats; moreover, yarns of different groups can slip, group and overlap, spoiling the appearance. This is why only basket weaves 2-2, 3-3 and 4-4 exist.


b)    Irregular basket weave: This is generally a combination of irregular warp and weft ribs. 


Method of Construction: Two or more warps simultaneously interlaced with one or more fillings.


Household Uses: Wall hangings, pillows.


Example of Basket weave:


  • Monks cloth: Heavy cotton Cloth in a coarse basket weave, chiefly used for draperies.


  • Oxford; Oxford weave fabric consists of two, thin warp yarns woven to very soft, thicker yarn in the filling direction. The unbalanced construction of the fabric causes the thin yarns to break and leave tiny holes. The primary use of oxford weave fabric is in cotton shirting. It is also used in other forms of apparel.


2.3 Twill Weave: Creates a diagonal, chevron, hounds tooth, corkscrew, or other design. The design is enhanced with colored yarn is strong and may develop a shine. Twill weave is characterized by diagonal ridges formed by the yarns, which are exposed on the surface. These may vary in angle from a low slope to a very steep slope. Twill weaves are more closely woven, heavier and stronger than weaves of comparable fiber and yarn size. They can be produced in fancy designs.


Method of Construction: Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or more counterpart yarns in progressive steps right or left


Household Uses: Upholstery, comforters, pillows.


Types of Fabrics:


Denim: A Strong Warp Face Cotton Cloth used for overall, Jeans skirts etc. Largely made in 3/1 twill weave. Generally warp yarn is dyed brown or blue and crossed with white weft.


Gabardine: A Warp Face cloth mostly woven 2/2 twill, 27/2 tex warp, 20/2 tex cotton weft. Here cotton weft is yarn dyed but the wool warp may be dyed in piece.






2.4 Satin
:


  • Smooth, soft luster
  • Excellent drapability
  • Floats snag easily



Method of Construction:

  • Floats one warp yarn over four or more weft yarns, then tied down with one thread, resulting in a smooth face
  • Common Fabrics: Satin, satin-weave fabrics out of fabrics such as cotton & Charmeuse


Household Uses: Draperies, quilts


 

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