Introduction:
Quality is of prime importance for every industry or
business, to get increased sales and better name amongst Consumers & fellow
Companies. Generally Quality control Standards for export are set strictly, as
this business is also holds the prestige of the country, whose company is doing
the export. Quality standards like ASTM, AATCC, BS, DIN and JIS & ISO must
be recognized and agreed by all levels of management. However quality
expectations for exports are related to the type of customer Segments and the
retail outlets. For textile and apparel industry product quality is calculated
in terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, colours
fastness, Surface designs and the final finished garments products. The present paper was aimed at investigating the testing required for assessing the
better quality of the Garment.
Different testing parameters to assess the Garment:
To control the quality of the garment. It is necessary to
assess the different parameters which is affecting the quality of the garment.
Here are the some properties that are taken into Consideration for garment.
2.1 Seam Strength:
This test method is used to determine the seam maximum force
of sewn seams when the force is applied perpendicularly to the seam. The test
applies to the standard seam applied to fabric samples or the Production seam
as received in finished garments. The major contributors to seam strength are fabric
type and weight, thread type and size, stitch and seam construction, stitches
per inch and stitch balance. Seam Strength in woven and knit is same as fabric
breaking and bursting strength respectively. Generally, a seam made with Chain
Stitch will be stronger than the seam made using lock stitch. Obviously,
stronger the sewing thread, the stronger the seam. Higher number of stitches
per cm (or in.) up to a point will give higher seam strength stitch.
2.2 Seam Slippage:
This test method is used to determine the resistance to
slippage of filling yarns over warp yarns, or warp yarns over filling yarns,
using a standard seam. It is used as an indication of the tendency of yarns to
slip at a seam when stress is applied. The result is that the yarns pull out
but the thread and the stitch doesn't rupture. To assess the seam slippage on the
CRE Instrument, it is tested either at fixed seam opening or at fixed load.
Seam slippage is usually caused by poor fabric design (too loose of a weave) or
too narrow of a seam margin. Not using enough stitches per inch and a poor
stitch balance can also contribute to seam slippage.
2.3 Colorfastness:
It is the property of a dye or print that enables it to
retain its depth and shade throughout the wear life of a product. Dyes are
considered fast when they resist the deteriorating influences (Such as
Laundering or drycleaning, exposure to sun, Perspiration, etc.) It has been observed that the fabric looses color
resulting from detergent solution & abrasive action during hand or machine
washing. One garment do stains other garments when washed together. Parameters
affecting colourfastness properties:
a)
Proper selection
of dyes
b)
Dyeing process parameters; (Time, Temperature/Pressure, and m: l Ratio, pH)
c)
Dyeing method
d)
After treatment
etc.