100% cotton suiting fabrics: In imported samples starch and PYA are used for finishing. In indigenous samples starch, PYA and anionic finishes used. Both reactive and vat dyes are used in both the samples (indigenous and imported samples).

Poly wool fabrics: In poly wool samples all the colour fastness properties are on the lower side for imported samples. Starch, anionic, PYA finishes are used in imported wheras PYA and anionic finish is used in indigenous fabrics. Disperse/vat dye is used in indigenous samples whereas disperse/reactive dyes are used in imported samples.

Polyester/cotton shirting and suiting: Finish identification shows the presence of nonionic finishes in imported fabric whereas starch, PYA and anionic finishes are present in Indian fabrics. Dyestuffs are similar

in both the imported and indigenous fabrics.

General suggestions for fabric quality improvement

The following points were suggested by the garment units for improving the quality of indigenous fabrics.

• Decentralised units should be vertically integrated.
• Overall fabric quality improvement is required in all aspects.
• A scientific, professional approach is required in the weaving and wet processing units.
• There should be proper follow up of yarn quality standards for producing fabrics in the decentralised sector.
• Care should be taken by the manufacturers to control common complaints regarding fabric shrinkage.
• Wet processing units are to be modernised with continuous dyeing process to get consistent shade of the fabric.
• Skilled technicians are to be employed in the decentralised powerloom sector.
• The decentralised powerloom sector should invest in development of new designs.
• Reduction in cost of production and lead time has to be achieved by the indigenous manufacturers.
• Need for accurate designs in case of weaving using latest shuttleless weaving machines with electronic dobby and jacquards.
• Composite units are to be developed for bringing down the costs (All under one roof concept).
• Proper and accurate weight per square metre (GSM) should be achieved in the case of knitted fabrics.
• Proper raising techniques should be followed with imported machines for producing polar fleece fabrics.
• Machinery manufacturers in India should gear up to manufacture weaving and processing machines that will match the quality of imported ones.

Conclusion

• Majority of imports are taking place from China, which produces all varieties at lower cost.
• India is ranking 5^th in the production of man-made fibres. Man-made fabric imports 'had increased from 98.5 million square metres in 2003 - 2004 to 164.8 million square metres in 2005 - 2006 due to decreased prices.
• Statistics show that there is a steady increase in imports after the phasing out of quota.
• Import of fabrics by the various garment units varies from 5% to 100%. Of the total fabric requirements of the garment units in India, about 20% of woven fabrics and 10% of knitted fabrics are imported.
• The main sourcing of 100% cotton knitted fabrics is done locally. The production rate at Tirupur is acceptable and the fabrics are equally good in meeting the quality requirements as the imported ones.
• The powerloom sector contributes 60% of country's total fabric production whereas the mill sector's contribution is only 4%. Because most of the fabrics in India are produced in the decentralised powerloom sector, higher width fabrics and creative new designs are scarcely available.
• The general reasons like high power and labour cost, low labour productivity, lack of marketing and low level of technology adopted by the decentralised sector contribute to the higher price of fabrics that are produced indigenously.
• Most of the composite mills in India have forward integrated. Hence, the majority of the processed fabrics produced by them are consumed by their garment units.