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Biotechnology in Textiles
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Source
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New Cloth Market
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Today, biostoning is the main process used in the denim
finishing industry, a shift promoted by process economics, fashion and, to a
lesser extent, environmental impact.
A life cycle assessment was performed on the three methods
of reducing the indigo content and the three process steps specifically related
to the production of stonewashed jeans: stone washing, wash off (removal of
the stones), and wash (clean-up of the garment). Only these three steps were covered
by the LCA.
The biostoning washing method scored best on eight out of
ten environmental parameters. The "combined" washing method scored
best for water toxicity because of higher emissions of phosphorus compounds
into water from the biostoning washing method. The pumice washing process
scored better under the heading "odor" mainly because of the ammonia,
emissions from agriculture and from the production of ammonia for fertilizers
used in the raw material production for cellulase fermentation.
A cost
comparison based on environmental regulations or needs was also made for the
three washing methods. The highest costs arise from wastewater treatment and
were for the pumice method, the lowest were for biostoning. These cost
differentials will increase if potential future standards for sustainable
development are to be met.
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