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Taguchi Concept in Minimizing Seam Pucker by Optimizing the Sewing Conditions
By :   I. Suresh Balu, K. Gowri and P. Tharani 
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Introduction


Seam


A seam is a joint where a sequence of stitches unites two or more pieces of material. According to BS3870, seam is defined as "the application of series of stitches or stitch types to one or several thickness of the material".


Desirable Properties of Seam


  • It must not be pull apart under the stresses of the service.
  • It must not be cockle or tight.
  • It must be as extensible as the fabric must or as needed by the movement demanded of each area of the garment.
  • The sewing stitches must not cut the fabric, break or crack on stretching the extent.
  • The seam must not be grin.


Seam Puckering


Seam puckering refers to the gathering of seam either just after sewing or laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance. Seam puckering is more common on woven fabrics than knits; and it is prominent on tightly woven fabric.


In Oxford Dictionary Seam puckering referred as "a ridge, wrinkle, or corrugation of the material or a number of small wrinkles running across in to one another, which appear in sewing together two pieces of cloth".


Need to Minimize Pucker


Developing a scientific method for sewing seams has becoming an important garment manufacturing technique and now it is adopted by the high value added apparel industry. In our country and others, clothing manufacturers have depended mostly on the simplicity of out-of-date traditional engineering experience. Therefore adapting to a more modern apparel industry that can improve constantly, knowledge of production management and a scientifically based system are absolutely vital for solving the increasing demand for quality products from the global apparel market.




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About the Authors


I. Suresh Balu is in Quality Assurance Department of Patspin India Limited, Para Road, Kerala. K. Gowri is Lecturer in Kumaraguru College of Technology and P. Tharani is associated with SCM Creations Ltd., Tirupur as a Merchandiser.

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Published On Monday, March 16, 2009
 
 
 

 
 
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