The 'Shirt' and 'Bed spread' with Geometrical Diamond what
you see in the photos are recently developed in Weavers' Service Centre, Bangalore. The shedding system used to produce this designed Shirt and Bed spread is not any Jacquard or Dobby or even 8 healds. It is simply woven with the aid of 4
healds and 6 treadles combined with a new formula used in Group drafting. The
New Drafting system is named as "Stitched Colonial Group Drafting System"
which is derived from the original Colonial Drafting evolved by Shri. Edward E.
worst (12, 23, 34, 41- 4 Groups)
The salient feature of this new Group drafting system is its
self stitching of figuring extra weft by one end after every three ends both in
face and back side. Where as, the extra weft in the original Colonial Drafting
System, floats to form the figure. Hence in the original colonial drafting
system each group can not be repeated more than certain number of times in
order to avoid lengthy weft floats. In the New Group drafting system, each
group can be repeated any number of times to produce required width of each
group.
The new 4 group Drafting System in 4 healds combined with 6
treadles enables to produce two up two down Twilled 4 group design in any
required width and length in stitched extra weft principle along with plain
weave in the ground. Manipulation of these 4 groups in pointed draft style
results in all types of wavy Twilled motifs (2/2 Twill Based) by operating the
treadle groups in straight order and also results in various types of diamonds (2/2
Twill Based) while the treadle groups are operated in pointed order as given in
the Table.
Effects Produced
|
Operation of Draft
Group
|
Operation of Treadle
Group
|
Effect Produced
|
|
Group draft drawn in straight
order
|
Treadle Group operated in straight
order
|
2/2 Twill effect in required width
and length
|
|
-do-
|
Treadle Group operated in pointed
order
|
2/2 Twill based wavy Twill along
effect in required width and length
|
|
Group draft drawn in pointed
order
|
Treadle Group operated in straight
order
|
2/2 Twill based wavy twill across
effect in required width and length
|
|
-do-
|
Treadle Group operated in pointed
order
|
2/2 Twill based Diamond effect in
required width and length
|
In the production point of view another advantage of this
New Group drafting system is its possibility of weaving not only in frame loom
with tumbler lever reversing motion but also its possibility of weaving in pit
loom with sample three roller reversing motion. This possibility of weaving
both in frame loom and pit loom can be very well made use to weave all Coarser,
Medium and Finer varieties of fabrics.
The Shirt what you see in the photo is stitched from the
cloth produced by using new group drafting system which shows that this new
system is very useful to produce Geometrical twills, wavy twills and Diamonds
which in turn used to stitch any "Engineering Designed Garments" when
Graph Designer and Art / Fashion Designer exercise their imagination keeping
the customer's need.
