The moment you come across the term chikankari, the mind
starts building images of white fabric filled with white embroidery. The
designs itself are like flights of fantasy, ranging from small delicate
portions to elaborate affairs. It has that irresistible magical affect in
itself that one just can not resist the urge to own a piece. Every wardrobe
especially in India has at least one chikankari garment and it is also one of
the most sought after products or gift items by the immense number of tourists
that visit India. But do we actually know what chikankari is? What pains are
involved in the production of one single small item? Who are the people behind
such beautiful pieces of art? (Chikankari is so breathtakingly beautiful
that it can be justifiably compared with art)
Surprisingly we just walk into the renowned retail stores,
walk through the various aisles, pick the one that we like, pay and flaunt it
in front of our friends. We are least bothered about its origin, its
development or its finishing. In order to enlighten ourselves for this purpose,
let us move our base to a small village in the state of Uttar Pradesh in India.
People might wonder why a village and not Lucknow? After all
among other things, Lucknow is famous for Chikankari. But unfortunately, we
cannot just give the credit of chikankari to Lucknow itself. Although
chikankari was first introduced in Lucknow, but in today's times this
embroidery is being done in various clusters (villages) in and around Lucknow. In these clusters Chikankari products and fabrics get developed in the hands of
mostly women from all age groups. We can find even kids aged 10 in this trade
as well as older women of late 50s or till the time they have a good eyesight.
The development of the product starts with selection of the
design. Traditionally these designs were the typical paisley motifs and floral
bunches, supported by leafy creepers, mostly of Mughal origin. The modern
consumer's demand has even brought modifications to these. As the merchandise
is changing from saris and salwar kurtas to tops, shirt and tunics, the designs
are also becoming more contemporary. A paisley would still remain a paisley but
with a modern touch. So the present day designs or motifs have a fashionable
touch of some other value addition like sequins, mirror work, zardozi etc, just
to be at par with the fashionable crowd.
The chosen design is then engraved on to a wooden block.
(Mostly sheesham wood is used.) The problem with wooden blocks is that
with time the edges become blunt, so the design which is printed on the fabric
becomes very thick, creating a problem for the final washing and finishing of
the design as well as hampering the intricacy. Off late blocks are being made
with a wooden base with the design on a metallic surface. The same motif can be
given a 3D look or a flat look by means of the stitch type being used. The
selection of the motifs is governed by the:
- Kind of product
- Kind of Fabric
- Color story involved
- Amount of density required.
