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Turkish textiles are rich in history, dating back to theOttoman period in the 16th and 17th centuries. Until theend of the Ottoman Empire, its economy relied heavily on the contribution of textiles.The importance of the textile industry to the Turkish economy continues today.


Turkey has often been labeled the land where "East meets West." Thisunique positioning, having road access to European markets, led to its rapiddevelopment in the 1980s and 1990s. In 2006, Turkey exported 44.5% of itstextile products to EU countries, most notably Italy, Germany, and Romania. Outside the EU, Russia is still a significant market for Turkish apparel.


Cotton textile products, (fiber, yarn, and fabrics) constituteabout 62% of total textile exports; thus emphasizing the importance of cottonnot only to the Turkish textile industry but also to the Turkish economy. TheTurkish industry is particularly adept at processing lightweight knitted cottonand viscose fabrics, knitted mercerized cotton, and cellulosic blends withelastane. In recent years, it has also turned its attention to technicaltextiles.


Turkish Textiles Today


In the May 2008 publication The Fiber Year, Oerlikonreported the Turkish economy's growth to be slowing to 5.1%1. As theindustry was unable to compete with cheap yarn imports, some textile companieswere forced to reduce or halt production, or diversify by joint venture incountries such as Turkmenistan in the past two years.


In 2007 total textile and apparel imports soared 47% toUS$9.2 billion, while exports increased 8.5% to US$22.0 billion. This reflectsrising Turkish production costs, with particular increases in labor, power,water (supply and treatment), and effluent disposal.


Of particular concern will be the expiration of Turkish LawNo. 5084 at the end of 2008. This law was devised to create incentives forinvestment and employment in certain under-developed areas of Turkey, and the world waits to see what will be the consequence.


Major Strengths


Today's Turkish textile industry benefits from manyadvantages including:


  • A richness in basic raw materials
  • A ranking of sixth in the world for cotton production, and as a significant producer of synthetic and artificial fibers
  • Geographic proximity to main markets (Europe and Russia)
  • Short lead times due to geographic positioning
  • Access to a well-developed textile finishing industry
  • Access to a qualified and educated work force
  • International recognition (particularly amongst retailers) as an industry recognizing the importance of quality, the environment, and human health


These advantages have helped to make the Turkish industry amodel for other countries outside Europe and the US. Textile industries indeveloping nations frequently inquire about Turkish practices. Their interestis focused on integration down the supply chain and improving their reputationfor socially responsible practices.


The emphasis on social awareness is especially important in Turkey's development as a leader in organic cotton production (begun in the 1980s andgathering momentum ever since) thus providing a role model for developingeconomies.

 


The Role of Organic Cotton


Turkey was a pioneer in producing organic cotton. Turkish organic cotton production started in 1989-1990 at Kahramananmaras in the Eastern Mediterranean region. Since then, its growth has been spectacular. According to Rebecca Clahan Klein, president of the Organic Exchange, "Turkey is a world leader in organic cotton production, with a 53% share of the market," although giving up its position as the number one organic cotton producer to India in 2008, with China right behind.


Basri Ozcoban, chair of The National Cotton Council of Turkey, reported in August 2008 that "last year the price of fertilizers rose 100%2. This may be sufficient incentive for maintaining sustainable growth in organic cotton production.3"


Consumer Demand, Fashion and Branding, and Added Value


The textile and apparel industry is being forced to implement a new set of standards based on the triple bottom line of economic, social, and environmental sustainability. Especially, as international financial markets continue tightening their belts, the days of waste and disregard in the industry are over.


As the growth in the Turkish economy slows, "added value" becomes a major focus. At the same time, as with any industry having a fashion input, branding and image are very important.


Isik Tarakcioglu, chair of the Turkish Textile Research Association emphasized this very point. "Turkey must preserve its leading position in a rapidly growing market. The engine for rapid growth is the fast growth of demand in the EU countries, the US, and Japan. Organic cotton represents a window for Turkey to continue a significant contribution to its textile industry, and also to raise its image and enable the garment industry to move up to a higher class."


References


  1. The Fiber Year 2007/08: A World Survey on Textiles and Non Wovens Industry, No. 8, Oerlikon.
  2. Ozcoban, Basri, www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile-news/turkey, accessed October 2008.
  3. PAN Germany Organic Cotton Circular, 3rd edition, 2007.



Originally published in AATCC News; November 2008

© AATCC


About the Authors


The authors are with Dyehouse Solutions and AATCC, respectively