Striped clothes have always attracted people's attention
both positive, and negative. Today, when medieval prejudices are far behind,
designers say that stripe is more than ever extra-fashionable and actual. Indeed,
stripe itself is very original and can create various optical illusions in a
costume.
"Optical illusion" has been using in clothes for a
long time. Such as false shoulders, high waistline or puffed skirt. The other
way to use the optical illusions is creation of "op-art" style
clothes which demands geometrically exact coupling of lines, stripes, plaids,
and also transformation of a plane of a fabric into illusory three-dimensional
space.
There is a set of various effects with stripe allowing to devise
these visual illusions and more. For this reason the necessity of developing
the classification of stripe effects, that will allow quickly and easily them
to create, occurred.
The review of models in fashion magazines shows that often
cutting of fabrics is made without parameters of a pattern of fabric. In
literature; striped and checked fabrics are named "difficult". The
reason is that rules of constructive modelling for models with various designs
of stripes and plaids are insufficiently deeply studied and described.
The problem of arrangement of construction elements (such as
tucks, seams, edges of details) is to be solved at the stage of constructive
modelling of garments made of striped or checked fabrics. Special attention
should be paid to such form-building element as the tuck. The tuck transfer
makes according to the developed classification which takes into account such
important properties of the pattern of the cloth as position of an axis of
symmetry of drawing at exact match of stripes along the sides of the tuck, or
presence of an active stripe in the pattern at the arrangement of a stripe
along one side of the tuck.
While editing the position of the elements of design special
value belongs to the hatch corresponding to the swatch. The hatch of details of
clothes' design is not typical as the hatch of cuts in mechanical engineering
or architecture since the angle of its inclination depends on many factors and
its rounding off with any accuracy of signs in decimal places of degrees will
give a deflection of the hatch from the lines found in the construction.
Therefore the technology which raises accuracy of applying
the hatch to 100% has been developed. The essence is in turning the detail with
the basic hatch line (BHL) so that the BHL orients horizontally or vertically.
Acceleration of the process of the hatch achieves due to the
following example. The segments of the decomposed detail with the "umbrella"
effect don't have to be taken to pieces and then re-gathered with the turn in
the initial position. The hatch separately applies on each segment with the
turn of all the detail on required for this segment's angle.
While applied hatch visualizes all inaccuracies of the position
of the elements of the design connected with the repeat of fabric and the size
of the garment it allows to eliminate defects in the future product in time.
Thus, correctly transferred tuck in the garment with vertical stripes and
certain repeat does not get on the edge of active stripe. Necessary parallel
transfer of the tuck according to the repeat of the pattern will entail
correction of position of other elements of the construction.
In case of creating the custom library of hatch patterns the
method of program description of patterns of fabrics has been studied and
hatches loaded in AutoCAD for work with constructions have been created. In
dependence on designing effects some extra stages can forego applying a hatch.
Thus, the "umbrella" effect demands making segmentation from one or
two centers with subsequent applying the directing line of the hatch and in the
end hatching of all the parts.