Fashion is an evolving subject. Yesterday's fashion will
undoubtedly resurface again as fashion moves its way through the trend cycles
time and time again. Fashion refers to styles of dress (but can also include
cuisine, literature, art, architecture, and general comportment) that are
popular in a culture at any given time.
The History
The total range of costumes in India is considerably
expanded between the 8th and the 12th centuries. Interesting
and useful accounts of geographers and chroniclers, especially those of Arab
and Chinese origin throw light on the Indian costumes in vogue at different
times in history. In their accounts, Masudi, Idrisi and Ibn Hawqal speak of
Indian cotton with a sense of wonder and awe. With the arrival of the Mughals
in the 16th century, new garments like qaba, jama, piraban, lilucba,
liba, kasaba, and the like began to be used. These kinds of costumes are also
found illustrated in the historical works like the Babar nama, the Tawatlkb-i-kbandan-i-Taimuriya
and the Tarikb-i-fi.
Abu'l Fazl provides probably the best documentation that we
have of the costumes of India from any single source prior to the 19th
century. He mentions that Akbar had replaced the names of several garments with
new and pleasing terms. Muslin from undivided India was an important commodity
of export and a high fashion fabric in Europe and other parts of the world.
Indian costumes like the silk saris, brightly
mirrored cholis, colorful lehangas and the traditional salwar-kameez
have fascinated many a travelers over the centuries. Although sari is
only one of the many traditional garments worn by women, yet it has become the
national dress of Indian women. The tightly fitted, short blouse worn under a
sari is a choli, which evolved as a form of clothing in 10th century
AD.
Though the majority of Indian women wear traditional
costumes, the men in India can be found in more conventional western clothing.
Shirts and trousers are worn by men from all the regions of India. However, men in villages wear traditional attires like kurtas, lungis,
dhotis and pyjamas.
Indian dressing styles are marked by many variations, both
religious and regional and one is likely to witness a plethora of colors,
textures and styles in garments worn by the Indians. Apart from this, the rich
tradition of Indian embroidery has long been made use of by fashion designers
from other countries. India prides in works like Zardozi, Dabka, brocades,
Pashmina, Jamawar and bandhni. It seems paradoxical that fashion is considered
a young concept in India since the first fashion show was held only in 1958.
Jeannie Naoroji wins the credit for initiating the first wave of fashion shows
in India and for giving a degree of professionalism to such shows.
Since then, there has been growing consciousness among the
Indian men and women towards the fashion, styles and designs of the dresses
they wear. Several institutes like National Institute of Fashion Technology
(NIFT), Indian Institute of Fashion Technology (IIFT) and other fashion
academies have been established where the students are taught to translate
their creativity into dresses and fabric designs. The media has also played an
important role in the fashion boom. Good coverage is provided to the fashion
world and several magazines are specifically devoted only to the fashion scene.
The proliferation of fashion-based programmes on the satellite television
channels has increased the consciousness of the average Indian masses about the
changing trends in the global fashion.
The Present
In the past one decade the Indian fashion industry has moved
from the embryonic stage to a blossoming take-off. Fashion designers have
contributed substantially to the spread of fashion as a driving force, both
among Indian consumers and select segments of Western markets. India can now boast of dozens of leading fashion designers, who can match any European
fashion designer in their concepts, styles and designs. Ritu Beri, Rohit Bal,
Ritu Kumar, Abraham and Thakore, Deepika Govind, Gitanjali Kashyap, Indira
Broker, J.J.Valaya, Lina Tipnis, Manoviraj Khosla, Pavan Aswani, Payal Jain,
Ravi Bajaj, Rina Dhaka, Sharon Leong and Chandrajit Adhikari, Shaina NC, Sonali
and Himanshu, Wendell Rodricks, Anna Singh, Ashish Soni, Jatin Kochar, Madhu
Jain, Manish Malhotra, Ravi Bajaj, Salim Asgarally and Tarun Tahlliani top the
growing list of reputed fashion designers in India.