Textiles manufacturers are
scrambling to create new fabrics that are more functional and green-the properties
consumers demand
THE STATUS-obsessed power dressers of the 1980s wouldn't be impressed: their
signature garment, the big-shouldered power suit, is making a comeback as one
of the key looks in the coming winter season. But in the 21st century,
it is much more likely to be made of renewable fibers and recycled materials,
and enhanced by the latest innovations that improve textile performance.
And it's not just for power dressers
that shiny polyester is out, and high-tech fibers are in: at August's Fina
World Championships sporting event in Rome there was controversy over the
suggestion that a range of space-age swimsuits have given some athletes an unfair
advantage-not to mention several world records.
The latest innovations have made
textiles more functional, ecological, sustainable and often cheaper. Many
leading chemical companies are at the forefront of these changes and their
innovations came about from listening closely to the market.
Swiss specialty group Clariant, for
example, works with customers to develop products that respond to their
specific needs, enhanced with cutting-edge technology, says Thomas Winkler,
head of Clariant's textile business unit, adding that the key to his company's
innovative flair is that it is driven by the needs of the market.
Clariant's new ecological products
combine performance with cost-saving benefits and include the sanitized TH
27-24 liquid, under its Build-tech/ Home-tech brand, a high concentrated
multiple-effect agent that keeps textiles permanently fresh and
dermatologically safe.
The company has also recently
introduced the Nuva N2116 liquid, a repellent for nonwovens such as medical
wear, protective clothing and other applications in the transport sector. The
product is free of perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), which has been used by many
textile firms as a coating agent in all-weather clothing, but which has caused
some health concern in the US.
Winkler says that with a fast curing
profile even at low drying/curing conditions, Nuva N2116 can be used with
sensitive fibers such as polypropylene (PP) and on sensitive colors, adding: "The
Nuva N series, based on the C6 fluorocarbon chemistry, is designed to provide
excellent water and oil repellency, and is nonsensitive with regards to
compatibility with other finishing chemicals."
Hans Kohn, chief operating officer
of Swiss company Schoeller Technologies, says Coldblack finishes, offering both
sun and UV protection, have gained interest in many markets, especially for
dark colors.
NanoSphere technology, says Kohn, is
highly functional with self-cleaning, water and oil-repelling properties, and
environmentally advanced components, as well as being PFOA-free. "A
further feature of NanoSphere's longevity is evident in the Bundesmann rain
test [which measures resistance to and absorbance of water.] After 10 minutes
of constant exposure to rain with a simulated 100 liters of water on a 1m2
[10.75 ft2] fabric sample, NanoSphere still displays a value of 4 (maximum =
6), while a conventional product achieved only a level of 1."
Another recurring issue for the
industry is to have deep black shades with metal-free dyes. Switzerland-based Huntsman
Textile Effects, which in March moved offices to Singapore to be closer to key
customers in the Asian market, has developed a product that meets that
specification, according to Paul Hulme, president of Textile Effects.
Hulme says the Lanasol range of
metal-free dyes represents Huntsman's commitment to protecting the environment.
"Lanasol Black exemplifies our innovation because we can achieve the same
deep shades for wool and fine animal hairs which were previously considered
unattainable without metal. In addition, Miralan is a dyeing auxiliary that
helps to save both cost and time with enhanced performance of the dyes."
