Textiles manufacturers are scrambling to create new fabrics that are more functional and green-the properties consumers demand

THE STATUS-obsessed power dressers of the 1980s wouldn't be impressed: their signature garment, the big-shouldered power suit, is making a comeback as one of the key looks in the coming winter season. But in the 21^st century, it is much more likely to be made of renewable fibers and recycled materials, and enhanced by the latest innovations that improve textile performance.

And it's not just for power dressers that shiny polyester is out, and high-tech fibers are in: at August's Fina World Championships sporting event in Rome there was controversy over the suggestion that a range of space-age swimsuits have given some athletes an unfair advantage-not to mention several world records.

The latest innovations have made textiles more functional, ecological, sustainable and often cheaper. Many leading chemical companies are at the forefront of these changes and their innovations came about from listening closely to the market.

Swiss specialty group Clariant, for example, works with customers to develop products that respond to their specific needs, enhanced with cutting-edge technology, says Thomas Winkler, head of Clariant's textile business unit, adding that the key to his company's innovative flair is that it is driven by the needs of the market.

Clariant's new ecological products combine performance with cost-saving benefits and include the sanitized TH 27-24 liquid, under its Build-tech/ Home-tech brand, a high concentrated multiple-effect agent that keeps textiles permanently fresh and dermatologically safe.

The company has also recently introduced the Nuva N2116 liquid, a repellent for nonwovens such as medical wear, protective clothing and other applications in the transport sector. The product is free of perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), which has been used by many textile firms as a coating agent in all-weather clothing, but which has caused some health concern in the US.

Winkler says that with a fast curing profile even at low drying/curing conditions, Nuva N2116 can be used with sensitive fibers such as polypropylene (PP) and on sensitive colors, adding: "The Nuva N series, based on the C6 fluorocarbon chemistry, is designed to provide excellent water and oil repellency, and is nonsensitive with regards to compatibility with other finishing chemicals."

Hans Kohn, chief operating officer of Swiss company Schoeller Technologies, says Coldblack finishes, offering both sun and UV protection, have gained interest in many markets, especially for dark colors.

NanoSphere technology, says Kohn, is highly functional with self-cleaning, water and oil-repelling properties, and environmentally advanced components, as well as being PFOA-free. "A further feature of NanoSphere's longevity is evident in the Bundesmann rain test [which measures resistance to and absorbance of water.] After 10 minutes of constant exposure to rain with a simulated 100 liters of water on a 1m2 [10.75 ft2] fabric sample, NanoSphere still displays a value of 4 (maximum = 6), while a conventional product achieved only a level of 1."

Another recurring issue for the industry is to have deep black shades with metal-free dyes. Switzerland-based Huntsman Textile Effects, which in March moved offices to Singapore to be closer to key customers in the Asian market, has developed a product that meets that specification, according to Paul Hulme, president of Textile Effects.

Hulme says the Lanasol range of metal-free dyes represents Huntsman's commitment to protecting the environment. "Lanasol Black exemplifies our innovation because we can achieve the same deep shades for wool and fine animal hairs which were previously considered unattainable without metal. In addition, Miralan is a dyeing auxiliary that helps to save both cost and time with enhanced performance of the dyes."