- There was a wide variation observed in fabric
specifications for a common variety of shirting fabric, like thread
density, linear density, area density, crimp % etc.
- Average fabric crease recovery was observed to be
fairly good but between items, variation was too high.
- Variations were found in both stiffness and bending
modulus but the drape coefficient appeared to be good between items,
except two items.
- Except for two items, abrasion loss was more or less
within the permissible limit in terms of strength and weight.
- High pill resistance was shown by all the fabrics.
- Hydral shrinkage (%) for most of the items was quite
satisfactory.
- There was wide variation of Range in air permeability
property. [11]
The silk spun from mulberry pierced cocoons is referred as
'Ahimsa silk'. The silk is obtained without killing pupae and is widely
accepted by Hindus and Jain royal families in India. To know influence of
mechanical properties on serviceability of the Ahimsa silk shirting materials,
a research was conducted by Sanapaparnma K.J. The findings suggested the
coarser uneven Ahimsa silk yarn is most suitable for handloom sector and
appropriately used as shot weft. To produce designer's shirtings, Ahimsa silk
is compatible to weave with cotton, rayon, tricot and filature silk.[8, 12]
5. Conclusion
Shirting fabrics play an extremely important role in a
readymade shirt. Fabric type is one of the important factors as the functional
criteria during formation into a readymade garment. Shirt fabrics also play
important criteria for selection and buying decisions. The performance of the
fabric does not necessarily predict the performance of the shirt but the two
are strongly related as the tight fabric is required for shirt to meet
aesthetic and functional performance expectations. Standards for fabric for
shirts are based on factors such as design, fashion trends, consumer's
preferences, price and market profile. Fabrics provide men with the tight
choice of fabric that suits their lifestyle. Besides colour and patterns, the
fabrics also provide dress shirts with varying textures and give the men,
literally, a different feel for each fabric. Men while making purchases; base
their decisions on design as well as fabric. It is important for manufacturers,
retailers and consumers to know emerging trends in fabrics for men shirts as
men can try different dress shirts fabrics to create variation within their
wardrobe. Also it is the task of textile technologist and designers to know in
detail about the emerging raw materials of readymade shirts in order to help
the common people to access the quality parameters of the garment before
selection.
References
- www.Mendressshirt.com date: 15/08/07.
- www.Men'sClothing.com date: 15/08/07.
- DFU'S, "Desire Shirts", (2006), Publication
by Inside Fashion, Volume 8, Number 1, pg 21, 62, 68, 90,
no, 123, 138, 139.
- Brown and Rice, J. (1998), 'Ready to Wear
Apparel Analysis', Prentice Hall, New Jersey, Second edition, pg 162.
- Apparel, the Clothier Digest, (Sept 2005), Watch
Out, pg 60.
- Ruth and Grace, 1. (2000), 'Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn
Product Analysis', Prentice Hall, New Jersey, Third edition, pg 629.
- Clothesline, (Nov -Dec 2005), Brand watch, pg-22.
- Clothesline, (July 2005), Brand watch- Domestic,
pg-23.
- Apparel-the Clothier Digest, (Sept 2006), Cover Story,
pg.94.
- Sadarangani, A.,(2007)'The art of looking good this
summer', Sunday Times of India, Mumbai, pg 18.
- Clothesline, (June 2005), Indian Market, pg-23.
- Sanapapamma K.J, (2007), Journal of Textile
Association, Jan-Feb:'2007, pg-215.
About the Authors
The authors
are associated with the Department of Textiles and Fashion Technology College
of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan, University of Mumbai
Originally published in Journal of the Textile Association, Vol. 69 No. 1, pg 32-36, May-June 2008 and again in Vol. 70 No. 2, pg 70-73 July-Aug 2009
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