They are also migrating to other industries now. Chetty says
that the manufacturing units of MNCs located in the Sriperumbudur belt between
Kanchipuram and Chennai offer them wages of Rs.7, 500 a month compared with the
Rs.6, 000 that weaving a high-end saree would fetch them. Chetty expects
production to dip in the future if this trend continues. For now, the existing
weavers, with average age of 40-45 years, are mostly sticking to the
profession. Some change has come through technology though.
Designs are all computerised and every private player and
handloom organisation has its own design unit. The designs are mounted on the
jacquard loom-a mechanical loom invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1801-that
has holes punched in pasteboard, each row of which corresponds to one row of
the design.
These rows were earlier hand-made. They are now fully
computer aided designs (CAD), says S Govindarajan who's the Head Designer at
Kancheepuram Silk Weavers Cooperative. But this technology upgrade does not
mean powerlooms will be used instead of handlooms. All the players explain that
it is the handloom, which is the USP of the saree. "That is what makes us
what we are," says Palanisamy.
Diversification into garments other
than the ubiquitous saree is another trend that's taking shape. Silk bed sheets
and pillow covers are being sold mainly to the hospitality sector, says M Gnanamoorthy,
director, SM Silks. This has brought higher margins, he says, and the company
has grown by around 30% in the last couple of years.
Owners like him, who are the present generation in
management, are now sporting Blackberry phones and wearing branded shirts, a sign not just of prosperity but also of
technological awareness. With several enquiries coming from abroad for their
sarees, they can't afford to lag behind. Gnanamoorthy points out that they are
using natural dyes as opposed to the traditional chemical dyes. This, according
to him, has earned the company goodwill among its customers, particularly the
more environment conscious ones.
The shortage of weavers may also be a temporary phenomenon. "With
a slowdown in the manufacturing and IT sectors, we see some of the young
weavers coming back," says Chetty of Nalli Silks. For this town where hope
is ever alive, the Gods might just make sure that the town stays immune to
economic turbulences.
Originally
published in "The Economic Times" dated November 10, 2009