Why Denim

Todays consumers like to live with more casual, relaxed andyet, sophisticated. With the emphasis on casual life styles, fabrics,therefore, must not only provide just comfort and beauty, but also have thestamina to stand up to the rigors of daily life. So, is the Denim Jeans, growing as one of the fastestApparel product both in the developed and developing world. It is strong,versatile, wears well and gets softer and comfortable with the time. Today, denimhas also gone from being a work wear look to a hot fashion commodity.

Denim-In Quota Free Regime

Indian Textile industry has passed through the longdiscussed quota free regime for more than a year. Many units have startedbecoming more and more competitive with new technology, new ideas and productand are in the process of expansion either in fabric, made-up or in fashionablegarment. New projects are coming for manufacturing Cotton yarn either to feedsudden domestic requirement or to Export. Possibly, only and one internationalclass Machinery manufacturer of the country, Laxmi Machine Works, indicatestheir delivery schedule of Spinning machinery at least 2 years from now due toover booking. On the other hand, Technology Up gradation Scheme (TUFs) does notsupport import of 2^nd hand Spinning Machinery.

Even then there is a constant flow of imported machinery inall most all sectors in Textile. Recent study by FICCI, titled Ending ofMFA and the Indian Textile Industry , based on responses received from 60medium and large textile planners across the country, reveals that 83% of themare planning for new investment in next few months. With this growing trendmany are predominantly looking at Denim as major raw material required, for thegrowth of fashionable Garment in the country and world. Many existing playersin Textile have, therefore, initiated their expansion programme withmanufacturing Denim, once again; with a fresh look especially when country isstrong in producing right kind of cotton required for this industry. In the year2006 and after one year of Quota free regime, a need is, therefore, felt torethink and relocate this eternally young fabric for clothing in the textile& fashion world.

The Past And Present

The word Denim is derived from the French Phrase The sergede Nimes, a serge fabric (A durable twilled originally worstedfabric) from the town of Nimes in France. It is also said that theword Denim came from a worsted fabric known as Nim in France during 17^th century. Interestingly, another fabric known as Jean alsoexisted at that time. This fabric was basically a fustain, a dark twillcotton cloth. Possibly, only major difference of these two fabrics is: Denimwas made of one coloured thread and one white thread (warp & weft) whereasJeans was woven with two threads of different colour. The word, Jeanscomes from a kind of material that was made in Europe. So, Denim is also calledas Blue Jeans. Finally, Denim was used as work cotton clothes when bothdurability and comfort were needed probably in the 18^th century andit is marked as one of the oldest fabrics, yet Denim is never out of style,remaining eternally young.

The Denim craze began as far back as in 1949, during theAmerican Gold Rush. There was a little recession in 1990 in the world Denimmarket, yet it has reinvented its position in 2000. Today in 2006 India would be the 2^nd largest supplier of Denim after China. In India, Arvind Mills in Ahmedabad first manufactured Denim some time in the year 1986. Withmodernisation acquiring a quicker pace in India, today Denim has become one ofthe most popular wear among young girls and boys.

World scenario of Denim in 2006 has taken different shapeand size.. United State, the largest producer of Denim till late nineties havealmost closed down and supplier base has shifted primarily in China, India, Bangladesh and Shri lanka. Whole Asia now accounts over 50% of World Denim Capacity.Among these 4 countries Bangladesh and Shri lanka have the advantage of lowlabour cost where as China and India have the lower cost advantage both inlabour and raw material (Cotton) besides having the strong base in Textile forlast many years. India is facing also robust demand for the domestic market.Some of the leading players and their estimated expansion programme may be worked as under-

Major Denim Players in India

In Million Meters/annum

Removal of quota restrictions and growing consumption in Asian economies due to fashion craze could possibly make this significant growth. Even in 2003-04 global consumption in Denim has shown a growth of 3-4%. Where as domestic demand in India during the same period was estimated at around 10-12%. Sales volume of domestic players was up by 16.5% and realisation by 4.3 %. Besides the organised sectors many unorganised Denim manufacturers have entered the market for domestic requirement. As per estimation, world consumption of Denim is around 4,500 Million meters and demand is expected to grow at about 5-6 %. Besides China, expected major expansions of Denim Capacity by some other countries are Bangladesh-40Mn Meters, Pakistan-60 Mn Meters and Turkey- 60 Mn Meters. By the year 2007 India is expected to reach its capacity of 360 Million Meters from 288 Million Meters from now.

In Million Meters

Gujarat is the leading textile state for manufacturing Denim fabric in the country and Ahmedabad is placed as Denim City in the world.

Quality and Product

Traditionally, Denim is defined as a 3/1 warp faced twill fabric made from cotton open-end yarn of dyed warp and un-dyed weft. Although some of the denim are also being produced out of ring spun and soft yarn. It was dyed with indigo blue dye originally obtained from natural sources, but now manufactured chemically in place of commonly used indigo. Sulphur and a few other colours are also used. While most denim remains blue, a growing market for other colours has also developed. So, it could go even to pink, green, yellow, white, light blue etc. Most denim is still 100 percent cotton, although a relatively small volume of polyester/cotton denim is produced and traded worldwide.  Some new developments are tensile denim, stretch denim, chinos, polyester blends, tinted denim, raven denim, crosshatch denim and many others. Today, it has become affordable, comfortable, and durable and offers variety of style and colour. The utility of denims has increased with different weights 16, 14, 13, 12, 6 and 4 ozs/sq. yard with different after treatments or washes like Stone wash, bleach wash, hand wash, acid wash, over dyed, printed denims and even embossed and embroidered denims. 

Trend

The utility of Denim has increased with different weights, type, colours and different after treatment or washes both for apparel and non-apparel use. In the world market, classic Denim Jeans retain an 10% share of the womens outwear market and a 25% share of the mens wear market. The greatest demand comes from 15 to 19 age groups. It is expected that the growth rate for denims would be directly proportional to the growth rate of readymade garments industry in India and abroad.

In India, the denim fabrics are most used by the youths in the age group of 18 to 25 mostly in metros and "B" class cities. However there is a phenomenal scope for consumption by tapping rural areas and already it has started with a significant growth rate. This trend will continue further and essentially it has increased the domestic demand to a great extent. 

Apart from the youth, denim fabrics are used in children wear also. The raggedness of denim fabrics has already appealed the local ready made garment manufacturers to use denim fabrics for children wear. Further scope of increased usage of denims in children garments is also anticipated.  Though denims used in the ladies jeans presently limited to only ladies belonging to upper strata in Metros, the ladies garment sector is the upcoming target among Indian denim manufacturers.

Today, there are over 500 units; manufacturing the denim wears specially jeans etc. by using their own brand name and logos. Leading brand names in the market are Wrangler, , Benetton, Numero, Uno, Jean Junction, Avis, FU Bata (North Star), Pepe, Jealous, Naked, Moody Blues, Upper Class etc. It is understood that with the phase out of quota from the last one year International Casual Wear Brand like, Pepe Jeans International alone is expected to source from India more than double than existing of 10% of Global Business from India. Pepe`s business consists 45% jeans and 55% fashion Denim of which Women wear is around 35% of total sourcing. Similarly, Denim Apparel vendor, Levi Strauss is creating over 100 exclusive stores in coming years from existing 50stores in India. The Hong Kong based popular denim wear brand Giordano and many others are entering for outsourcing from India. Many of the International Buyers from China and Shri lanka are looking at India for this enormous growth in quality and quantity in this area. This trend is expected to continue for another few years for Denim industry in India. Many of existing players are extending their activities in Hi-fashionable Garments.

Technology

Selection of technology has got a vital role to play in deciding required product mix and competitiveness and that too in the global context. The yarn mostly preferred for making denim is open-end spun yarn, which is twisted harder than that of ring spun. Therefore, it is harder for the indigo dyestuff to penetrate during dyeing. This will well suit for denim. The required raw material for denim cloth manufacturing will be spun 6s to 12s 100% cotton (open end), for which short staple cotton is sufficiently available in the country. With a new look, feel and style, many are also producing ring-spun denim in a non-conventional way, besides development with fancy yarn and finish. Indigo Dye Stuff and synthetic dye stuff of good quality may be imported to get cost advantage still further. Indigo has a low affinity for cotton; deep blue dyeing is only obtained when dyeing and oxidation are repeated several times. Then rinsing takes place and from the accumulator, warp yarn goes for usual sizing and then for weaving.

The Rope Dyeing system is the most preferred method by the majority of "World Class" indigo dyers. It offers the highest production and assures multiple warps set range with consistent shade for two or three warp sets as they are processed simultaneously. However, this technology is more capital intensive. Plant and machinery includes warping machine, dyeing and sizing machine, foam finishing, looms, singeing and raising machine. Sizing and dyeing and finishing machines are mostly imported as on now. However, singeing, raising and other finishing machine may be procured indigenously. 

Out Look

In India Production of Denim Fabric (cotton) has gone up to 235 mn. meters in the year 2004-05 from only 74.94 mn.sq.mt. during 1998-99 in the country. Export has gone up to 91.50 Million meters during the said period besides supplying the fabric to Garment Exporters. 100% non-cotton and blended denim are available in the market with an estimated size of 10 to 15 million meters.

Denim fabrics are used as jeans trousers both for men and ladies. It is extensively used in the world as casual garments, shirts, jackets and children wear. Its versatility, finds applications in furniture upholstery, bed covers, curtains, etc. Denim is no longer a cotton only product. It is now mixed with Jute, linen, hemp, wool, lycra, polyester and others. Sometime this may be with 100% Nylon net bonding, two way stretch and special coating for rubberised effects. It can not be restricted with traditional blue pigment from natural indigo dye but with verities of synthetic colours with different look and wash.

In coming years, for the domestic market too, India will be a major consumer of denims with a population of over 1080 million due to rapid exposure to new culture and trends. The per capita consumption of denim fabrics in India is bound to go up from the existing 0.1 meter as against 0.6 meter of world average or 0.04 jeans per head against 2 pairs in the U.S. 

It is eminent that India and, in specific, state like Gujarat is having the competitive advantage for manufacturing denim fabric in the world mainly due to availability of abundant raw material and well established textile and chemical processing base. As per International Production Cost Comparison-2003, per yard of open end woven fabric cost in India comes to US$ 0.614 as against 0.647 in China, 0.600 in Brazil, 0.696 in Korea, 0.675 in Turkey, 0.746 in USA and 0.953 in Italy. Union Textile Ministry has also made a target of US$ 25 billion garments export by 2010 from the present export of US$ 6 billion in the year 2004.

International Buyers like JC Penny, Tommy Hilfiger, Gap, Wal-Mart have already established their offices in India and started outsourcing extensively from India, which in turn, will further boost to Indian Denim Industry in the years to come. But many of them are expecting if a fabric maker can supply garments too. Today, India exports over 60% of the output of Denim fabric. But our competitors are China, Pakistan, Turkey and Mexico. Chinas USP is only on low price. Therefore, India should focus on customers who are ready to pay price for quality. But our lead-time to reach Buyers needs to be improved substantially. In the emerging fast changing situation and with ending MFA, this industry, however, needs to understand our strong textile base and capability, along with, fast changing consumer trends, styles, tastes and new application and finally the cost competitiveness as a continuous effort towards success.

Originally Published: Indo-US Summit on Textile Ahmedabad 18-19 March 2006

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