Varanasi, also known as Benaras or Banaras, is considered to be one of the oldest cities and is very popular for Silk fabrics of unique designs. It has a powerful force of skilled weavers of handlooms to produce intricate designs on fabrics. The designs produced are of their own tradition and creation, consisting of intricate floral and foliate motifs. The fabrics are distinguished from other Indian state fabrics in terms of design and weaving characteristics. The design includes dense border patterns woven as supplementary weft threads with a highly decorated end piece. The oldest city was famous for weaving cotton sarees and dress materials in ancient times, and the change has happened in the 14th century as weavers switched over to silk weaving using gold/silver threads. Fabrics are so popular that customers wear them on special occasions such as weddings, festivals, and functions at home or neighbor's place. Foreigners visiting Varanasi are attracted by these and normally buy them. The following paragraphs give details about some of the prominent and popular silk fabrics.

The fabrics (Sarees) are classified based on varieties:

1. Katan-Pure Silk Sarees: Created with beautiful patterns and produced using handlooms in ancient times, now power looms and rapier looms are used.

2. Organza with Zari and Silk Brocades: These fabrics involve thrusting the pattern thread between the warp. Weaving of fabric needs warp and weft. Weft thread passes over/under the warp regularly. But, in brocade, depending on the design of the fabric to be woven, in place of regular weft passing warp, a certain number of gold/silver/cotton weft threads are used. The designs may be regular/irregular based on which the end appearance of fabrics varies.

3. Georgette: A fine, lightweight, open-textured fabric usually in a plain weave, made from crepe yarns (highly twisted) usually two S twisted and Z twisted yarns in both warp and weft.

4. Shattir: Used in creating exclusive and modernized Banaras sarees.

Based on design, the fabrics are classified as:

Jangla: In this type of sarees, colorful silk threads are used. It has Jangala intricate patterns that add value to the design. Jangala vegetation motif, that scrolls and spreads in sarees, is expected to be the first in Banaras brocades. Rose Saree consists of embellished gold creepers and silver flowers of Jangala motif, giving a stylish look.

Tanchoi: These types of Sarees are normally used in wedding ceremonies. Zari used in design. Extra weft is used for creating patterns. The motif are "Paisley" or "Labyrinth" are created by artisans. Multiple "Paisley" forms one growing out of other are found on end pieces of sarees. At the end piece of border and the cross border are embellished with miniature "Paisley".

Cut work Saree: These sarees are cheaper version of Jandhani. Silk Jandhani is produced by placing a certain number of warp threads with cotton and regular weft to produce intricate design. Motifs used are Jasmine, Marigold flower, leaf form etc., in cut work sarees, patterns are made, by cutting extra weft threads that hanging loose and these normally pass from selvedge to selvedge.

Tissue Sarees: These sarees are shining as Zari is used in weft. Extra weft has Zari and Silk and warp consists of Silk. The patterns used are dense with golden lotuses floating in a glimmering pond. Borders and Panel has a diaper of diamond patterns enclosed by a border of running "Paisley" motif.

Butidar Saree: It is a rich kind of saree in which local designs are used. It consists of gold, silver and silk pattern threads. Gold is darker in shade and silver is lighter in shade. End panel has a row of arches, in each of which bouquet of silver is placed.

The authors are associated with Textile Testing Laboratory, CSTRI, CSB, Varanasi