The smart tartan patterns on the kilt of the piper playing bagpipes have been part of Scottish culture.

In the current century, nations are amalgamating traditional and contemporary to get global support and increase profitability. Scotland, with its rich traditional textile, has also adapted to the changing global scenario. Today, Scottish textile has perfectly mastered the art of winning the world with its traditional patterns and fresh designs. Scotland's curtains hang in Sydney Opera House, and the country's textile sector has also manufactured space tethers for NASA. Add to that list the world's lightest bulletproof vest, seamless airbag for the automotive industry, carpets in the White House, and you have an impressive list. The country's current textile market is estimated to be approximately 1 billion, with ambitions to grow 50 per cent by 2020.

Flourishing market
The Scottish textile sector is focused on delivering added-value, high-end margin products that contribute significantly to exports. The sector also has a strong research and development activity. Scottish textile is also concentrating on improving environmental sustainability by working towards energy usage and raw material sources.

An ambitious plan has been drafted for Scotland's textile industry, and the sector is pinning hopes on exporting more than 500 million of textile goods manufactured in the country by 2020. The sector is also eyeing turnover growth in the range of 1.2 billion to 1.5 billion. The industry has successfully surpassed the targets that were earlier set for 2020. As a matter of fact, research and development investment has also grown beyond anticipation. The R&D figure released in 2013 stood at 2.02 million, which was almost twice of what was expected by 2020. The new R&D target set for 2020 is 3.5 million.

According to Cathy Black, head of textiles at Scottish Enterprise, "The success of Scotland's textiles sector is testament to its ambitious and innovative companies, which have a strong appetite for growth. In 2013 alone, we have supported over 40 companies to participate in leading international events such as CHIC in China, Decorex in London. It's opportunities like these as well as the sector's strong heritage and world-class reputation in design and excellence that help to support the sector's ambitious target to increase exports by 50 per cent by 2017."

Currently, Scotland is home to global business brands in technical textiles like Don & Low, Scott & Fyfe, Ahlstrom, WL Gore, DuPont, J&D Wilkie, and Bonar. Luxury brands like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Mulberry, Vivienne Westwood, etc., are among the top buyers of Scottish textile.

What's holding the sector back?

Scottish textile adorns famous places and is recognized for its class and quality. However, it is the growing global competition, European Union's support to textiles of other countries, etc., that have added to the pressure on Scottish textile to advance relentlessly. Developing countries like India, China, Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Thailand are textile manufacturing havens for developed nations. The low-cost production in these countries has made it difficult for Scotland to compete on cost.

 

Scotland's success graph in new markets has also been rather unimpressive as the competitors from Asia have become adept at managing and maintaining a business image. While it has been easier for Scotland to retain its old client base, finding new clients amid stiff competition is extremely difficult. Also, the government's financial support to other European countries is likely to have an impact on short-term growth of Scottish textile sector.


Scotland needs to further strengthen its textile exports through joint ventures between companies. Finding new business in existing markets and exploring trade opportunities in new markets will open fresh avenues. Thus, the sector is understandably encouraging diversification and easing of communication between buyers and manufacturers to get a competitive advantage over other countries.


Desire for sustainability

Scotland's textile sector is also improving its global competitiveness by shifting away from the usual, less sustainable 'make-use-dispose' model towards a circular approach, following which the materials are given a high value and are used for as long as possible.


Under the joint aegis of Zero Waste Scotland and the Scottish government, Scotland's textile industry took a decision to focus on sustainability during the Edinburgh International Fashion Festival. The festival works with the textiles and retail sector on circular approaches. The recent developments in Scottish textile are connected with the quality, expertise and heritage of the Scottish industry. The country's durable textiles, like Harris Tweed, are completely contradictory to the concept of fast fashion, which reflects how serious Scotland is towards textile sustainability.


Back from the background

In knitwear, Scotland's cashmere and lambswool are famous worldwide. Woven fabrics like tartans and tweed, technical and industrial textiles, lace, etc are among the top textile exports of Scotland. The country's Nottingham lace loom that operates at a very slow, delicate and controlled pace is exclusive to Scotland. In fact, only one of the textile companies -- Morton Young and Borland Limited -- specialises in manufacturing this extremely labour-intensive lace. Scottish Madras is another fabric that is produced exclusively by Morton Young and Borland Limited. The company has combined traditional methods with computer technology, which has helped these unique age-old fabrics to survive in today's competitive world. Scottish lace is used in home furnishings, and in exclusive as well as regular garments.


Though China supplies 60 per cent of the world's cashmere, Scotland's cashmere fibre enjoys unrivalled expertise as most of the manufacturing methods used today have originated from Scotland. The quality of Scotland cashmere makes it a class apart. The country supplies its luxury cashmere all over the world, but geographically, it has a strong concentration of luxury cashmere business in the Scottish Borders.


While many countries have successfully produced the less expensive version of conventional Scottish textile, the quality of Scotland's fibre and fabric remain unsurpassed. Transformation of traditional textile from a few drab colours to an array of hues, fusion of traditional methods of manufacturing with modern day technology and accepting the change in demand have made the world take note of Scottish textile. The industry has left an indelible mark on global textile through its achievements in various streams and its future textile plans continue to keep the world intrigued and enchanted.


References:

1. Scottish-enterprise.presscentre.com

2. Sdi.co.uk

3. Textilescotland.com

4. Makeitbritish.co.uk

5. Scotsman.com

6. Gov.scot

7. Mr.mag.com