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Yellowing of textiles
By :   Rajesh Koul
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Consumer Contaminants


Many times, once the textile end product is in the hands of the consumer, fabric yellowing can be directly attributed to the actions of the consumer. For instance, fabric yellowing can occur by the improper cleaning and removal of body lotions, perfume and cologne, hair spray, make-up, perspiration, and other oily dirt absorbed into the fabric or garments through normal use. The International Fabricare Institute Bulletin has identified these and other consumer caused contaminants as typical sources of fabric yellowing. In many cases, such as around collars or underarms of blouses or shirts, the contaminants which lead to fabric yellowing slowly build-up over time until they reach a point where the garment appearance and performance is negatively affected. A good example of this is the build-up of aluminum chloride from certain deodorants, which imbeds into the fabric in the underarm area. It is very difficult to remove in laundering and over a period of time builds to a level that severely affects the garment.


The textile consumer can contribute to fabric yellowing in other ways. The particular choice and use of detergents and fabric softeners can be a factor. Over-drying of laundered garments can lead to yellowing. Exposure of textile fabrics to smoke and soot from fireplaces, pipes, cigars, cigarettes, and improperly maintained gas- and oil-fired furnaces within the household can all contribute to fabric yellowing. In commercial laundering, overuse of starch or hot pressing garments containing too much alkali can lead directly to yellowing.


As a final item, the yellowing of denim garments, specifically stone/bleach after-washed jeans has been a major topic of study. This yellowing occurs as large patches throughout the garment as well as at the folded edges of the garment. Studies have shown that the yellow formation is due to decomposition products of indigo dye, namely isatin and anthranilic acid. The published mechanism shows that yellow formation occurs when isatin interacts with nitrogen oxide pollutant gases. Anthranilic acid has been shown to develop yellow color on exposure to natural sunlight or on interaction with ozone. Other decomposition products may lead to yellow formation but at this time, they do not seem to be major contributors to the observed yellowing problem. Yellowing of denims can be minimized by making sure that jeans are thoroughly scoured after stone washing where possible to remove these indigo decomposition products from the garment. Practices used to minimize atmospheric pollutant gas contamination are strongly recommended.


Summary

The following is a general but not complete list of measures to take to minimize yellowing of textile fabrics:


  • Use chemical finishing agents, especially softeners, which do not contain phenolic-based antioxidants and preservatives.
  • Minimum amounts of softeners, particularly cationics, should be used since they may intensify yellowing by attracting dirt and oils and by storing phenolic compounds.
  • Maintain a slightly acidic pH of around pH six or below for the finished fabric.
  • Where possible use packaging and wrapping materials and boxes free from phenolic antioxidants. Use gas impermeable wrapping films.
  • Avoid the use of vehicles powered with internal-combustion engines in warehouses, storage areas, and processing facilities.
  • To ensure the removal of harmful gases, maintain good ventilation in storage areas, and processing facilities.
  • Ensure that garment components such as shoulder pads or interlinings do not contain phenolic compounds, which have a tendency to yellow.


As can be seen from this overview, there are a wide variety of causes for yellowing of textile garments and fabric. Wherever possible, steps should be taken to prevent yellowing formation rather than trying to remove or "fix" it. Once fabric is yellowed, the cause of the yellowing often dictates what the possibilities for remedy may be. In some cases, fabric yellowing indicates fabric degradation, in which instance; the fabric may not be able to be restored to its original condition.



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