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Application of intelligent systems as the basis for improving the position and competitiveness of the European textile industry
By  : Isak Karabegovic, Darko Ujevic

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The characteristics of the European clothing industry are as follows: accelerated transfer of production function first of all into East European countries which means abandoning labor-intensive production in Europe, market specialization and investments into modern and innovative technologies, intensified market access and internationalization as well as strategic links (1-4). The latter was especially presented as the only means of the survival of the textile branch and a good possibility of strengthening the position of companies by combining different sources. It is necessary to restructure the overall program at organizational, technological, financial, personnel and information level. It is given great significance to the development and application of intelligent systems, intelligent clothing, textiles, footwear and online system for automatic monitoring of the sewing process of high-quality garments. For example in Croatia investigations were carried out and the area for the application of intelligent carpet was found for the usage in apartments or houses in order to protect the household against undesired visitors (burglars). After the household members leave the house, the security code is switched on, and the sensor carpet enters the security system of the object (5).


3. SCANNING BY 3D BODY-SCANNERS


Cyberware WB4 of the whole body scanner will be used in the CAESAR project to make a high resolution of data about human body. The whole body is digitally represented by a color picture and by a series of data. All subjects will be scanned in three bodily postures. The scanner possesses four scanning heads projected by the horizontal laser on the subject. The subject can sit or stand on the scanning platform. The scanner can record a 2 m high and 1.2 m wide area (subject area). The whole body was scanned for 17 seconds. After finishing the scanning the digital idea is "closed". "Closing" is a process of combining the data by four scanning heads. A few types of data were generated in the Cyberware scanner and in the Cypie software package. The Cybeware scanner generates "unclosed" data or enters the data from each scanning head; they contain a series of information and colors. The Cypie software package combines all the data into one closed file (one file consists of 9 mb data in binary form of approximately 40 mb in ASCII form). Finished files are accessed on CD. Subjects dressed by standard and the momentary posture on the scanning platform are included in scanning. Standard garment parts for scanning include light green cotton shorts for bicycle riders, both for men and women, and a green sports woman's bra. A latex cap will cover the hair and ensure a better picture of head form. To understand the used data better, a list of 99 variations was collected in collaboration with police, automotive, clothing and space industries (2, 5-9). This system is installed and used for measurements at the Faculty of Technical Engineering, University of Bihac (6). To develop the method, efforts were made to obtain differences of these measurements. At the beginning CARLD Lab investigations used 99 variations of body measurements to determine how many subjects are necessary in the selection for the best range of models. Two of three postures for scanning are sitting and standing posture, in traditional anthropometric measurement. Standard scanned posture must obey some rules:


  • to compare measurements precisely with traditional anthropometric variations,
  • to be reproductive so that the subject is always scanned in the same manner,
  • to position the body so that there is no shadow when scanning,
  • to check whether anthropometric body measurement is used.


Traditional anthropometric sitting and standing posture is highly productive. A few scanners support effective 3D scanning. For example, traditional anthropometric standing posture implies that the arms are lowered, and the legs and ankles are gathered. In this position it is impossible for the scanner to see many shadows under the arms and between the legs (shadows are hidden within the knees and ankles). By keeping apart the arms and legs (keeping them away from the body) the scanner is able to record and register better and to recognize the arms and legs. Suggestions for sitting and standing posture in the CAESARE project are similar to the whole body with some changes of the posture of the arms and legs.



 

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