The need for proper classification of fabrics

Abstract

Textile Industry has spread all over the world, of whichfabric manufacture is the most important segment both in spread and variety. Efforts have been made to classify fabrics from different viewpoints, viz., Consumer,Trader, Manufacturer, Technologists, Engineers and Standards.

From Consumers viewpoints, fabrics are classified earlieras:

i)        Apparel

ii)      Household

iii)     Industrial.

This classification is subsequently modified as:

i)        Apparel

ii)      a) Bedding b) Hometextiles

iii)     Technicaltextiles, which include:

a)       Mobile textiles

b)       Geo textiles

c)       Construction textiles

d)       Industrial textiles

e)       Medical textiles

f)        Safety textiles

g)       Smart or Intelligent textiles,etc.

From the Traders viewpoint, fabrics are classifiedaccording to specific Trade/ Brand names. From the Manufacturers viewpoint,fabrics are classified according to the method of manufacture as: i) Woven a)Hand loom b) Power loom c) Khadi ii) Knitted a) Warp knit b) Weft knit iv)Embroidery v) Lace vi) Crochet, etc.

From the Technologists viewpoint, fabrics are classified as:i) Structure ii) Texture. From the Engineers viewpoint, fabrics are classifiedinto: i) Width/Breadth, ii) Length, iii) Yarn size, iv) Weight, v) Thickness,vi) Setting, vii) Face. From Standards viewpoint, fabrics are classified as i)Set, ii) Weight, iii) Strength, iv) Condition, v) Application or End use. Thereis the possibility of overlapping of fabric characteristics under thesedifferent viewpoints.

In the present paper, it is proposed to have a universally- acceptableclassification of fabrics based not on aesthetic characteristics which involvesubjective assessment, but on verifiable characteristics which involve thedetermination of the following characteristics:- i) Type/Variety, ii)Materials-used, iii) Weave, iv) Yarn Numbers (N₁, N₂,N_a),v) Loom set a)Reed (R), b) Pick wheel (P), vi) Threads (n₁, n₂,T),vii) Width [Reed Width (RW), Cloth Width (B)], viii) Crimp % (c₁, c₂)ix) Diameter (d₁, d₂, β), x) Thickness (G), xi)Weight (W W^′), xii) Cover Factors (K₁, K₂K_c, FQI), xiii) Weight Factors (w₁, w₂, w, w₁/w₂),xiv) Length/unit weight ( Y, Y^′), xv) Effective Length/unit weightof fabric (BYT, BMT).

Based upon the above characteristics, it is possible to setup norms for the following characteristics under different groups i)FabricWeight (W, W^′), ii) Average Count (Na), Setting (Warp, Weft, Fabric),iii) Face, iv) Fabric Thickness, v) Effective Length / unit weight of fabric(BYT, BMT), vi) Fabric Condition, vii) End use. Each fabric can be classifiedaccording to the above classification and certificate issued by an authorizedorganization. Illustrative examples are given to show how this classificationcan be implemented.

Among the three characteristics of Fabric Weight, Averagecount and Effective length/unit weight of fabric. Fabric weight is used in costcalculation and average count is used for levying excise and other duties. However;from Consumers viewpoint, costing of fabrics needs to be done based oneffective length/unit weight of fabric, since its value varies even for thesame fabric weight and fabrics are sold by length overwhelming and only incertain cases they are sold by weight. In Technical textiles there is absolutenecessity for proper classification of fabrics on functional basis.

Introduction

Textile Industry is next in importance to Agriculture, sinceit is the second largest provider of employment. It has spread far and wide inthe world, of which fabric manufacture occupies the most important segment inboth breadth and variety. From India the export of fabrics is estimated tofetch US $ 17 billion and export of readymade garments to fetch US $ 34 billionby 2011-12. There is severe competition among exporting countries to increasetheir share in the world market for textiles and apparels. In view of the appreciation of the value of Rupee against US $, it has become increasingly difficult to face thestiff competition among the exporting countries.

The present paper is confined to classification of fabrics.

Definition of fabric:

The term fabric is derived from the Latin term fabrica meaning fabric or workshop. It means that which is put together like fabric or building. In fabric engineering, fabric is defined as a flat material with length (L), Breadth (B), Thickness (G) and having weight. While volumetric density of fabric can be determined from these parameters, it is customary to evaluate the aerial density of fabric (W or W^′) in terms of oz/sq, yd. or gsm.

Classification of Fabrics:

Fabrics may be classified in different ways, viz,

Utility:

(i) Apparel, (ii) Household (iii) Industrial, which is modified as:

(i) Apparel (a) Outer wear, (b) Inner wear, (c) Seasonal wear, (d) Staple wear, (e) Fancy wear.

Household (a) Bedding, (b) Home textiles.

Technical textiles (a) Mobile textiles, (b) Geo textiles, (c) Construction textiles, (d) Industrial textiles, (e) Medical textiles, (f) Safety textiles, (g) Smart or Intelligent textiles, (h) High-altitude textiles, (i) Mountaineering textiles, (j) Outer space textiles, (k) Military textiles, (l) Agriculture textiles, (m) Horticulture textiles, (n) Sericulture textiles, (o) Dairy textiles., (p) Fishery textiles, etc.

Method of manufacture as:

1. Woven (a) Hand loom, (b) Power loom, (c) Khadi.
2. Knitted (a) Hand knitted, (b) Machine knitted, (c) Wrap knits, (d) Weft knits.
3. Embroidery (a) Hand embroidery, (b) Machine embroidery.
4. Lace (a) Hand- made, (b) Machine- made.
5. Braiding (a) Personal wear, (b) Industrial, (c) Oceanic.
6. Crochet.
7. Tatting.
8. Knotting.
9. Netting.
10. Felting.
11. No-weaving, etc.

Materials used as:

(i) Natural, (ii) Man-made, (iii) Blends.

4. Yarns used as:

(i) Filament (mono/multi), (ii) Spun (single/folded/cable/fancy).

5. Fabric condition as:

(i) Grey/Greige / Loomstate, (ii) Finished: a) Scoured, b) Bleached, c) Dyed, d) Printed, e) Mercerized, f) Stentered, g) Calendered, h) Sanforized/Zero-Zero finished, i) Sized, j) Glazed, k) Etched/Embossed, l) Felted, m) Raised, n) Sheared, o) Gassed/Singed, p) Fire-proofed, q) Schreinered, r) Soil-resistant, s) Soil-release, t) Stain-resistant, u) Anti-crease, etc.

6. Trade or Brand names such as:

(i) Poplin, (ii) Shirting, (iii) Cambric, (iv) Lawn, (v) Voile, (vi) Crepe, (vii) Jean, (viii) Denim, (ix) Gabardine, (x) Sheeting, (xi) Long cloth, (xii) Twill, (xiii) Drill, (xiv) Tussore, (xv) Mull, (xvi) Muslin, (xvii) Damask, (xviii) Brocade, (xix) Georgette, (xx) Satin, (xxi) Plain, (xxii) Flannel, (xxiii) Blanket, (xxiv) Rug, (xxv) Broadcloth, (xxvi) Duck, (xxvii) Canvas, (xxviii) Velvet, (xxix) Corduroy, (xxx) Toweling (xxxi) Turkish Toweling, etc.

7. From Technologists viewpoint as:

(i) Structure (a) Weave/Nature of interlacement, (b) Knitting/Nature of interloping, etc. (ii) Texture/Nature of construction.

8. From Engineers viewpoint as:

(i) Breadth or width, (ii) Length, (iii) Yarn size, (iv) Setting: (a) Warp, (b) Weft, (v) Weight, (vi) Fabric Thickness, (vii) Fabric face, (viii) Fabric cover.

9. From Standards viewpoint as:

(i) Construction, (ii) Weight, (iii) Strength, (iv) Condition, (v) Application or End use.

It may be noted that there is the possibility of overlapping of characteristics under the different methods of classification of fabrics.

At present, customers are carried away by aesthetic sense involving look, colour, feel, etc. and, ultimately, cost of fabric.

In the present paper, intrinsic quality of fabric is emphasized, leading to durability. Accordingly, fabrics are classified under the following categories:

1. Fabric Weight

2. Average Count (Na)

3. Cover Factor (K)

4. Fabric Cover

5. Weight Factor Ratio (w₁/w₂)

6. Fabric Thickness

7. Effective Length/Unit Weight Of Fabric

Note: All the above factors can be evaluated using formulae given in the Appendix.

Six examples are given to illustrate how the proposed scheme of classification can be implemented, irrespective of material, weave, condition and/or end use of fabrics.

Conclusions

1. Classification based on aesthetic aspects of fabrics is subjective and may vary from person to person.

2. Classification based on objective assessment is reliable, as it is backed by actual test results or figures arrived at by the use of appropriate formulae, since it is verifiable.

3. Classification is recommended for i) Fabric weight, ii) Average Count, iii) Warp set, iv) Weft set, v) Fabric set, vi) Fabric face, vii) Fabric thickness, viii) Fabric Group.

This method of fabric classification may be universally adopted by different Standards organizations, Manufacturers and Traders for the benefit of Consumers.

4. While Average Count is adopted for taxation purposes, fabric weight is adopted for costing purposes. But, it is preferable to adopt effective length/unit weight of fabric for costing purposes, since fabrics are mostly sold by linear measure.

5. In the case of Technical textiles, it is necessary for the proper classification of fabrics on functional basis: as such, the classification suggested in the present paper may be invariably adopted here also.

Appendix

The following formulae are used in calculating the various characteristics given in the paper:

References:

1. Muniswamy D V, Hand Book of Cotton Fabrics, (Under Preparation).
2. Muniswamy D V, Rayon Fabrics.
3. Muniswamy D V, Know Your Fabrics.
4. Muniswamy D V, Classification of Fabrics A New Approach, Vasana, Vol. 1, 2006.
5. Graham Clark W A, Clarks Weave Room Calculations 3^rd Edition, 1949.
6. Ball H J, Engineering Design of Textile Structures, 1960-61.
7. Louis I Parts I & II, Textile Fabric Design Tables.
8. Robinson, A.T.C, and Marks R, Woven Cloth Construction, Reprinted 1973.

About the Author:

The author is the former Principal in GSKSJJ Institute, Bangalore and a Visiting Professor, ATM, BU, CCC, Bangalore.

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