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Traditional Printing styles
Each region has a different style and method of printing which is an identity of that region. These printing styles are broadly as following:
Direct style of printing:
In this style, printing is done with pastel or white colored background by any method.
Discharge style of printing:
In white discharge style, the print is created by removing the color from the dyed material. When the color is removed and the print is created by the color, that style is known as color discharge style.
Resist Style of printing:
In this, the color resistant material is used for the printing. First, the color resistant material is applied on the fabric and then the fabric is dyed then the color resistant material is removed and the material which is not dyed is filled with different colors. Mud and wax are being used as color resistant materials.
The printing style in which mud is used is known as Dabu style and that in which wax is being used is known as Batik style. Liquid wax is applied on the fabric with pen, brush or block on the images.
Some other specific printing styles are as followings:
Block Printing
This technique was originally developed by China. First of all, the original wooden block is developed and then with the help of ink, the duplicate is produced by the craftsmen. Highly skilled people are needed for this.
Ink- jet printing
In this method, ink drops are used which are basically dye liquids. The print is created by small ink drops on the intended image.
Hand printing
Hand printing is one of the traditional techniques of tie-and-dye and it is used for decorative values of textiles.
Spray printing
The gun is used in this technique. The color is sprayed with force from gun on screen and electro coating is used.
Tie-and-dye
This technique includes tying of both wrap and weft threads. Normally, bright colors are used in this.
Kalamkari
Kalamkari work is done with kalam, from which it derived its name. ‘Kalam’ means pen and ‘Kari’ means work. Thus, the work done with pen is called ‘Kalamkari’. It is a very ancient work of India.
Batik
Batik is a dyeing process in which first, color resistant material is applied on the fabric and then the fabric is dyed. After dyeing, the color resistant substance is removed. So the fabric attains its original color at those places.
Printing groups with categorical identity
 Each and every region has some special styles and they use the material which is locally available. The craftsmen use a blend of locally available and traditional material and when they do not have traditional material, they borrow it from other regions. Each region has its different style of patterns, designs, color combination, motifs and arrangement and presentation. Sometimes, some similarities are also found because of the nearness of the regions. The prints of Ahmedabad, Farukhabad, Pethapur, Sanganer and Bagru are quite similar because Gujarat and Rajasthan are neighbor states. It is very difficult to differentiate between Saganeri and Bagru prints and careful observation is needed for that. Bagru prints always have a light background while Sangaaneri prints are always on a white background. In Madhya Pradesh, flat blocks are being used and known as ‘Gudd printing’. In Rajasthan, raised blocks are being used for designs. Farukhabad is well known for its artistic representation of designs. In Bangalore, blocks which suit silk fabrics are used, along with very rich colors, up to seven color blends.
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