The Kanchipuram Silk Industry

The occasion of marriage for a South Indian bride is incomplete without a Kanchipuram saree in her trosseau. Among the wide range of silk sarees available in India, from the Benares silk saree to the Patola from Patan, the Kanchipuram saree holds a special position. The strength and magnificence of the Kanchipuram saree makes it one of the favourites among ladies all over the world.

Now that the world has become a global village, Kanchipuram sarees are available the world over. However, the production of these beautiful sarees is still centred in Kanchipuram, a small town located on the Palar river in South India. Also called Kanchi, the town is renowned for its silk industry and its temples.

The origin of the Kanchipuram saree dates back to centuries ago, when these sarees used to be woven in temples. Kanchipuram sarees, woven from pure mulberry silk, are found in myriad colours. These sarees have borders and pallu in a contrast colour with heavy gold weaving. Kanchipuram sarees traditionally had designs representing simple gold lines or gold dots. The designs in these sarees were inspired by the designs in South Indian temples or natural elements like birds, leaves, etc. Some of the best known patterns in Kanchipuram saree borders are Rudraksham (representing Rudraksha beads), Gopuram (representing temples), Mayilkan (Peacock eye) and Kuyilkan (Nightingale eye). Keeping in view the changing trends, Kanchipuram silk sarees have undergone a transformation. Now, even Kanchipuram designer silk sarees are available, with embroidery or crystal work done on the traditional silk saree. One of the latest trends in these sarees is using ancient paintings and the images of gods and goddesses in the pallu.

In an authentic Kanchipuram silk saree, the body of the saree and the pallu are woven separately and then stitched together. The distinctive weaving technique of a Kanchipuram silk saree using three single threads of silk yarn along with zari, that is silk threads dipped in liquid gold and silver. The mulberry silk comes from the state of Karnataka and the gold zari comes from Surat. In spite of Kanchipuram becoming a world-famous silk industry centre, the town does not manufacture silk or any other raw material used in the production of a silk saree.

The town of Kanchipuram is well known as Silk City because almost of its population is dependent upon the silk industry. Skilled and semi-skilled weavers from neighbouring towns like Salem, Arani, Coimbatore and Kumbakonam are also involved in the production of silk sarees.

India is the world's second largest producer of silk, contributing roughly 18% of the total world production of silk. In India, silk production is concentrated mainly in South India and Assam and West Bengal to a certain extent. Kanchipuram is a significant producer of silk in South India.

Initially, this industry was dominated by a handful of merchants who used to procure sarees from the local weavers and sell them. This system was disadvantageous to the weavers, who did not receive just compensation for their labour.

In the year 1949, the first co-operative society of weavers was formed, called the Kamatchi Amman Society. This society consisted of 79 weavers, who were provided financial support and several other benefits. Over the course of time, more and more co-operative societies were formed. Today, there are about 24 co-operative societies, most of which are managed by the Tamilnadu government. Some of the reputed co-operative societies of weavers are the Kamatchi Amman Silk Society, Murugan Silk Society, Varadharaja Swamy Silk Society and others. The Kamatchi Amman Society now has about 2000 members and is one of the biggest. Totally, there are about 50000 weavers who work through various co-operative societies.

Private traders like Nalli Silks and Sri Kumaran Silks in Chennai acquire silk sarees from independent weavers in Kanchipuram and make them available to other cities of India and in foreign countries.

Now, the Kanchipuram silk industry operates mainly in two ways- 1) Through co-operative societies and 2) Through private traders.

There are around 60000 silk looms in operation in Kanchipuram. The yearly turnover of the town exceeds Rs. 200 crores, with exports of approximately Rs. 3 crores. According to experts, the exports have not risen to their full potential, as the demand for sarees outside India is negligible. Product diversification is being considered by the industry, which would definitely lead to a rise in exports. Certain units have started weaving churidar sets. Some units are considering the production of furnishing.

Extensive research has been undertaken to make the production process technologically sound, faster and better. The use of computers in creating designs is on the rise.

With increasing consumer preferences for low-priced, light-weight sarees, simple designs and light colours, many changes have been incorporated in the Kanchipuram saree. Weavers have started blending silk and cotton for producing the body of the saree. Sometimes, the body of the saree is made in cotton and the border in silk. Weaving borders using a combination of silk and polyester is also undertaken by some weavers. The gold and silver content in the zari is also being reduced. This brings down the cost of the saree to a great extent. These procedures have adversely affected the reputation of the Kanchipuram silk sarees and are affecting their sales in a negative manner. The Tamilnadu government, TIFAC (Technology Information Forecasting and Assessment Council) and Tamilnadu Zari have jointly established a testing unit for zari in Kanchipuram, which checks the content of gold and silver in zari. This facility can be used by both co-operatives and individuals by paying a nominal fee.

Weavers Service Centre, which is a unit of the Ministry of textiles in Kanchipuram, provides training and consultancy services in design and modernisation.

Factors such as piling up of stocks and decline in working capital have now led the
co-operative societies to offer discounts on saree prices. The government also offers a rebate on these sarees. Moreover, these societies also receive cash credit from the Union Government. These co-operative societies are now beginning to advertise their product in an attempt to promote sales and reduce stock accumulation.

The Central Geographical Indication Registry approved the application for Geographical Indication Registration of the Kanchipuram silk saree by the Tamilnadu government. As per these norms, any saree sold as a Kanchipuram saree should follow certain set standards regarding weight and zari and the saree should have been produced in the region. Legal action can be taken against anyone selling a duplicate sarees as a Kanchipuram saree. The Tamilnadu Government is planning to allot a special logo to Kanchipuram silk sarees to certify their authenticity to protect the interests of the weavers. This industry has recently been passing through a crisis on account of the availability of fake Kanchi silk sarees.

The government has undertaken a campaign to abolish child labour from the Kanchipuram silk industry. Under this campaign, committees have been formed to scrutinize saree-producing units. Some loom owners have been charged with making use of child labour. To discourage the use of child labour, the government has developed equipment that performs the job of a helper.

The Kanchipuram silk industry has managed to survive many highs and lows and has made its presence felt internationally. However, the biggest challenges faced by it today are undertaking modifications to suit changing customer preferences, use of modern technology and product diversification.

Reference:

www.geocities.com
www.tamilelibrary.org
www.madrasi.info