Private traders like Nalli Silks and Sri Kumaran Silks in Chennai acquire silk sarees from independent weavers in Kanchipuram and make them available to other cities of India and in foreign countries.

Now, the Kanchipuram silk industry operates mainly in two ways- 1) Through co-operative societies and 2) Through private traders.

There are around 60000 silk looms in operation in Kanchipuram. The yearly turnover of the town exceeds Rs. 200 crores, with exports of approximately Rs. 3 crores. According to experts, the exports have not risen to their full potential, as the demand for sarees outside India is negligible. Product diversification is being considered by the industry, which would definitely lead to a rise in exports. Certain units have started weaving churidar sets. Some units are considering the production of furnishing.

Extensive research has been undertaken to make the production process technologically sound, faster and better. The use of computers in creating designs is on the rise.

With increasing consumer preferences for low-priced, light-weight sarees, simple designs and light colours, many changes have been incorporated in the Kanchipuram saree. Weavers have started blending silk and cotton for producing the body of the saree. Sometimes, the body of the saree is made in cotton and the border in silk. Weaving borders using a combination of silk and polyester is also undertaken by some weavers. The gold and silver content in the �zari� is also being reduced. This brings down the cost of the saree to a great extent. These procedures have adversely affected the reputation of the Kanchipuram silk sarees and are affecting their sales in a negative manner. The Tamilnadu government, TIFAC (Technology Information Forecasting and Assessment Council) and Tamilnadu Zari have jointly established a testing unit for �zari� in Kanchipuram, which checks the content of gold and silver in �zari�. This facility can be used by both co-operatives and individuals by paying a nominal fee.

Weavers Service Centre, which is a unit of the Ministry of textiles in Kanchipuram, provides training and consultancy services in design and modernisation.

Factors such as piling up of stocks and decline in working capital have now led the
co-operative societies to offer discounts on saree prices. The government also offers a rebate on these sarees. Moreover, these societies also receive cash credit from the Union Government. These co-operative societies are now beginning to advertise their product in an attempt to promote sales and reduce stock accumulation.

The Central Geographical Indication Registry approved the application for �Geographical Indication Registration� of the Kanchipuram silk saree by the Tamilnadu government. As per these norms, any saree sold as a Kanchipuram saree should follow certain set standards regarding weight and zari and the saree should have been produced in the region. Legal action can be taken against anyone selling a duplicate sarees as a Kanchipuram saree. The Tamilnadu Government is planning to allot a special logo to Kanchipuram silk sarees to certify their authenticity to protect the interests of the weavers. This industry has recently been passing through a crisis on account of the availability of fake Kanchi silk sarees.

The government has undertaken a campaign to abolish child labour from the Kanchipuram silk industry. Under this campaign, committees have been formed to scrutinize saree-producing units. Some loom owners have been charged with making use of child labour. To discourage the use of child labour, the government has developed equipment that performs the job of a helper.

The Kanchipuram silk industry has managed to survive many highs and lows and has made its presence felt internationally. However, the biggest challenges faced by it today are undertaking modifications to suit changing customer preferences, use of modern technology and product diversification.

Reference:

www.geocities.com
www.tamilelibrary.org
www.madrasi.info

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