The Indian textile industry is currently being transformed from a sunset sector into a sunrise sector. It is being hailed as the growth engine of the Indian economy (ref www.txcindia.com). Recent changes in the global scenario herald excellent growth prospects for the industry for the next few years.

In terms of the technology status of the various sectors of the industry, spinning has always been hailed as being technologically on par with the best in the world. However, it has been recognized that the weaving and processing sectors have been lagging behind and efforts are being made by the various stakeholders (government, textile industry and textile engineering industry) to upgrade and modernize these sectors.

The weaving sector has about 19 lakh shuttle looms. A large part of these shuttle looms (almost 15 lakh) are obsolete. The number of shuttleless looms is about 50,000, most installed during the last three years, largely encouraged by incentives provided under the TUF scheme, offered by the Ministry of Textiles. However, a large percentage of these (almost 70%) are imported and of these too, a large percentage comprises of used machines.

Why is automation important in the weaving sector? Global competition ensures that only the fittest survive. Todays weaver needs to ensure that he/she is able to manufacture and supply the finest quality of fabric, at the lowest cost, in the shortest possible time-frame. Automation is the only option which will allow the weaver to attain this objective.

What are the challenges faced for automation in weaving for the Indian Textile Industry?

The nature of the weaving industry is changing. Around the early 80s, the focus moved from composite mills to decentralized units and new clusters such as Bhiwandi, Surat, Ichalkaranji, Erode, etc. began to develop. Because the resultant units are smaller, the focus on having a trained workforce, established work-practices, data collection and utilization has diminished. Due to insufficient awareness, decision-making is not always rational and the investment capability of the units also has diminished. Unethical business-practices are rampant. It is only very recently that the trend has started to reverse and decentralized units are successfully adopting a mill-like approach to their business.

The focus of the global majors is higher machine speeds and wider widths. Todays machines can offer weft insertion rates of more than 2000 to 2500 metres per minute and widths of upto 3.8m. Various options are available for weft insertion such as rapier, air or water-jet and multiphase. Most of the machines from the Indian manufacturers offer rapier-based weft insertion rates of around 350 to 650 metres per minute and widths upto 2.3m. In order to ensure that they are able to compete with established brands, machinery manufacturers need to offer machines with higher speeds and wider widths and also other types of weft-insertion technologies.

In order to perform under such demanding conditions, we need yarn of better quality. However, spinners have risen adequately to the occasion and today yarn of the required quality is available, albeit in smaller quantities and at a higher cost. In fact, yarn is being exported to countries where it is being used on the most modern weaving machines.

Operating under such conditions also requires precision manufacturing and metallurgical skills.

For example, critical to the success of high speed weaving machines, is the successful manufacture of high-quality precision cams as they are found in many subsystems of weaving machines. This should include casting/forging, machining, grinding and finishing. There are very few facilities for manufacturing such cams in the Indian industry today.

Most of the infrastructure of the domestic machinery manufacturers is as outdated and obsolete as the machines that they manufacture. This has partly been due to uncertain demand and lack of incentives for modernization (both from the user industry as well as the government). Expansion of capacity or upgradation of metallurgy was discouraged because of cost repercussions. While the manufacturers have woken up to the fact that with the passage of time, there will be dismantling of barriers for import of new and used machines, it will probably take some time before most will be able to attain acceptable quality levels in this domain.

Development and local and economic availability of auxiliary devices such as high-speed dobbies, cams and jacquards needs to be encouraged so that they are not a weak link in the chain of weaving and that the machines are not forcibly slowed down due to the limitations of these devices.

India has been a leader in the field of software and information technology. However, our weaving machines need to incorporate more of electronics and control hardware and software. More and more machines are incorporating control components such as PLCs and variable frequency drives. Input systems such as touchscreens help the user control the machine. Such systems are essential for higher productivity of our weaving machines and for minimizing fabric defects due to yarn breakage or machine malfunctions. Monitoring software can also help better data-collection as well as inventory-management functions.

This necessitates better infrastructure availability from the government. In many locations, electricity is more of a luxury than a necessity. For example, most parts of Bhiwandi go without power for more than 6 hours every day. Even when there is power, the voltage levels often fluctuate within a wide range. The same story is repeated in almost all the weaving clusters. How can a machine with sophisticated electronic controls operate in such an environment? While the unit-owners are to some extent responsible because of rampant power theft, there is no political will or capability to rectify this situation.

It is only recently that the various stakeholders involved have recognized the fact that growth in this sector will bring about an unprecedented demand for trained technicians (machine operators, jobbers, engineers, etc). Most students graduating out of engineering colleges and institutes find the information technology industry and options in business management more lucrative than the textile engineering industry and even with the best efforts, it will take a few years before the supply will be able to match up with demand. The industry needs to market itself to students as an attractive and viable career option.

Entrepreneurs in the decentralized sector need to be educated about the benefits of investment in modernization and that such investments can actually bring down the cost of production, reduce fabric defects and help them compete with low-cost, obsolete weaving machines. Incentives and education also needs to be provided for investments in auxiliary systems such as environmental control and material handling within the loomshed.

Intervention by the government is necessary to help the other stakeholders bridge the technology gap. Schemes such as TUFS and SITP also need to be available to machinery manufacturers. Education and training is another important sector where the government can play an important role.

It is only by tackling the above issues will be weaving industry be able to rise upto the challenges posed by globalization.

About the author:

Ketan Sanghvi has done his MBA from the University of Southern California, Los Angeles, 1986 and BS (Mech) from the University of Southern California, Los Angeles, 1983. He is the Director of Laxmi Shuttleless Looms Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad Which is one of Indias leading manufacturer and supplier of shuttleless looms. He is also a Partner in the CreationTextiles, Ahmedabad which is one of Indias oldest manufacturer of dobbies. He is also the Director of WANLAND Datacom (India) Pvt. Ltd. which is Specialist in WAN and wireless connectivity solutions. He is the President in the Indian Textiles Accessories & Machinery Manufacturers Association 2006-2007, Co-chairman in the Federation of Indian Textile Engineering Industry 2006-2007 and Director of the Rotary Club of Mumbai Queens Necklace 2006-2007. Email: ketan@wanland.com


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