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8.2 Seam pucker
It is defined as differential contraction occurring along a particular line of the fabric. Usually along the line of seam and it is caused due to tension variation and Fabric construction.
8.2.1 Causes for Seam Pucker
Different fabric layers causes unequal tension in the seam due to improper overfeed ratio. High sewing thread tension combined with highly elastic threads can cause buckling of the seam. Jamming of the fabric due to excessive number of sewing threads fabrics of different physical properties when combined in a seam, it shows these differences as pucker during the subsequent handling e.g. laundering. If different fabric length sewn as the part of the same seam, the excessive fabric being the source of pucker.
9.0 Summary
Selection of sewing threads is essential for shaping of valuable garments. The ideal sewing thread should confirm to a high standard of single thread strength and perfectly balanced twist. It should not have yarn defects like knots, cuts, snarling, twist subs etc. Thread should have color fastness and wash fastness. Length of the sewing thread should be within the specification. It should be smooth free from protruding fibres with exceptional good appearance .This same thread should perform plain stitch, button stitch, and button holding at various speeds.
10.0 References
1.Taylor MA Technology of Textile properties, Forbes, London, 1990,3rd editionP282
2.T.V.Ratnam, SebhanK.N., KPChellamani, S.Karthikeyan- Quality contol in spinning, SITRA- Coimbatore.
3.Chopra. K seam behavior of woven and apparel fabrics Ph.D. thesis IIT DELHI 1997
4. Galuszynskis- some aspects of Mechanism of seam slippage in weaving fabrics, Journal of textile institute 1985, No6, P425-433.
About the author:
 Chidambaram Rameshkumar
Senior Lecturer,
Department of Textile Technology,
Bannari Amman Institute of Technology,
Sathyamangalam-638401
Erode District, India
crktex@gmail.com , crktex@yahoo.com
Tel: 04295-221289 , Fax- 04295-223775
Regarding my Research works
Currently I am doing my PhD in the Protective Fabrics. As a part of my study, I have planed to develop a cut resistance tester and cut resistance fabrics. The total estimated cost for this project is about Rs.15 lacks (Indian Rupees). In this connection I am looking for grant or suitable sponsors for my project work. If I get financial assistance through fibre 2 fashion.com business stars, it will be a timely help and booster for my research.
Area of Interest : Spinning, Technical Textiles, Fibres Characterization, Textile Mechanics, Process control in spinning and Textile marketing
Dr. N. Anbumani is working in PSG College of Technology,Coimbatore
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