Awarded more than 31,000 certificates & labels in past financial year
Oeko-Tex is a registered trademark, representing the product labels and company certifications issued and other services provided by the International Association for Research and Testing in the field of textile and leather ecology. It consists of 18 independent institutes in Europe and Japan. Georg Dieners, General Secretary of Oeko-Tex, speaks about how it managed the renewal of its certificates and new application from companies during the pandemic and agenda set for the current year.
Oeko-Tex has a long-standing legacy. How many textile companies are adopting your standards worldwide today? How many new applications were received this year?
We consist of 18 independent textile and leather institutes in Europe, Japan, and contact offices in more than 70 countries. Currently, more than 21,000 manufacturers, brands, and retailers in nearly 100 countries officially work with us to ensure that their products are tested for potentially harmful substances. At the same time, millions of consumers around the world use the Oeko-Tex labels to inform their purchasing decisions. Our goal of improving the transparency of manufacturing processes has made us both a pioneer and a reliable partner for the textile and leather industry. We are pleased that we were able to award more than 31,000 certificates and labels in the past financial year, despite the COVID-19 pandemic. This represents an increase of 31 per cent compared to the previous year. In particular, the strong growth of the Made in Green by Oeko-Tex label, which doubled compared to 2019/2020, makes us very happy and allows us to look to the future with confidence.
Despite the pandemic, the Made in Green certifications by Oeko-Tex grew the most in the past 1 year. What could be the reasons behind it?
Especially the current time of the pandemic has increased the awareness of consumers to live more sustainably. The demand for transparent supply chains and accurate traceability of products has risen significantly in the last two years. At the same time, people are more concerned about their health. These factors are covered by the Made in Green by Oeko-Tex label. In addition, the label can be used as a tool to provide information on new legislation, such as the Due Diligence legislation. Made in Green by Oeko-Tex not only gives the assurance of pollutant-tested materials and environmentally friendly facilities, but also points to production in safe and socially responsible workplaces. We can confidently name these as some of the many reasons that have led to the growth in the use of the Made in Green by Oeko-Tex label.
Sustainability, eco-friendliness etc are the buzzwords today. But what about curbing such practices that already exist? What steps can be taken at the ground level?
have to The main driver and the base for acting sustainable is transparency and traceability. Once a brand or retailer has full visibility of all partners in the supply chain, they can work together on sustainable solutions promoting social working conditions and human rights. In addition to transparency, we pursue the continuous optimisation of the value chain. Our credo is the ongoing improvement of the industry. The industry has to take responsibility and for this we act as a catalyst and try to be a valuable partner. On the other hand, we are convinced that cooperation must be taken to another level. The industry, the politicians and the consumers bear their fair parts.
What is the agenda of Oeko-Tex for the current year?
We will continue to drive innovation and make it easier for consumers and companies to make responsible choices that preserve our planet for generations to come. With our testing and certification processes behind our standards, we ensure the highest level of consumer safety. As part of our "Roadmap towards Excellence" STeP by Oeko-Tex is constantly evolving. We support facilities in their continuous improvement process. This is where our new carbon and water footprint tool comes in. As of 2022 facilities will be able to measure and report their carbon emissions and water usage impact at facility level, by processing step or for 1 kg of material.
Which of your products/certificates are the widest in use? Which countries are leading the way in getting the most certifications with respect to their textile industries?
Our Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex label is one of the best-known labels in the world for textiles tested for harmful substances and is also the most frequently used. A product with this label is safe for human health. All components of the article are tested, i.e thread for thread and even the smallest button. The tests are carried out by our independent Oeko-Tex institutes based on our comprehensive Oeko-Tex criteria catalogue. In the testing procedure, they consider numerous substances, both regulated and non-regulated, that could be detrimental to human health. In 2020/2021, Asia once again leads the list of countries that have achieved the most certifications within the textile and leather industry to date with 59 per cent. This is followed by Western Europe with 27 per cent and the Middle East with 7 per cent.
What will the integration of your new Carbon & Water Footprint Tool into the STeP by Oeko-Tex mean with respect to the companies implementing it?
Our new Carbon & Water Footprint Tool allows textile producers to measure their CO2 emissions and water consumption. The user-friendly tool determines the ecological footprint and identifies the most important factors of their environmental impact. The methodology of our tool offers a tailor-made approach that takes into account the specific needs and processes of facilities in the textile industry and is simple and easy to use. Participation is voluntary and will be available to any textile production facility applying for or already holding a STeP by Oeko-Tex certification.
Currently, we are in the beta testing phase with selected partners. We are confident that the digital tool will be launched beginning of 2022.
How do you think the world textile industry will evolve in future?
Even for the textile and leather industry, sustainability and digitalisation have long since ceased to be a trend. These topics are now anchored in the industries and many companies are trying to do their part, which pleases us very much. However, the image that is carried to the outside world was shattered by the COVID-19 pandemic. It showed that entire supply chains were disrupted, and an overwhelming number of people lost their livelihoods. During this period many people realised that the industry had to realign itself. Product life cycles need to be rethought and, above all, products need to be manufactured in an environmentally and human friendly way. This is finally bearing fruit and we are seeing a turnaround in the industry as policy makers are actively participating and whether voluntarily or not, companies are changing their production. This makes us particularly optimistic that our approach of using scientific data to improve industry can also contribute to the common good in the long term. We see it as our task to continuously support the actions of companies as well as consumers through information and education.
The first by Oeko-Tex International Advisory Board (IAB) took place in April 2021. What were the talk points of the discussion and suggestions for further development of standards?
Basically, our first International Advisory Board was about technical considerations around the use of certain substances as well as restrictions in their use. For example, we looked at factors such as indigo derivatives, pesticides, and biocides. Accordingly, we have examined at the applicability of limit values and discussed the restrictions in relation to testing and legal regulations and requirements of the industry. We also focused on how test methods can be developed and communicated, based on continuous optimisation. In addition, we had exciting discussions about the Best Available Reference Document (BREF) air emissions project and the relationship between our Oeko-Tex RSL/MRSL and other standards. Through the broad-based expertise from the IAB members and the collaborative negotiation process with internal and external stakeholder, we create industry-leading standards that meet the high demands for transparency and credibility. It helps our product developers to upgrade our processes and products every day.
What are the main challenges that textile and apparel companies face when it comes to meeting checking standards, verification and compliances in general? What are the possible solutions?
Compliance with legal and industry standards, verification, and conformity in general should by now be part of our partners' DNA. This also includes transparency of production along the entire supply chain, which must be integrated into the daily workload of textile and apparel companies and communicated internally as well as externally. Companies should also bear social responsibility and commit to a sustainable and clear product cycle. We, as Oeko-Tex, see ourselves as facilitator for companies as well as brands to take responsible decisions. On top of that the transformation of the economy towards an environmentally friendly, climate-neutral society would be part of the solution. Brands, retailers and producers are confronted with various regulations and industry requirements. We should not limit ourselves to the potential for improvement, but also acknowledge the strengths of the respective companies.
Which new products you may be coming up with in future and what are the areas they will cover?
Of course, we will continue to research with our institutes and try to constantly optimise our processes in the company. Digitisation is an important factor for us and at the same time an innovation driver. We are continuing to work on our Carbon & Water Footprint Tool to be able to implement added value at product level in the future. Furthermore, we are happy to create attractiveness for companies with innovative ideas and to convince the market of the importance of ecological and environmentally friendly processes.
How were processes of renewal of certificates and new application for companies modified by you to suit the current COVID-19 crisis? How have these changes benefitted companies?
In the second year of the COVID-19 pandemic, Oeko-Tex continued to focus on enabling certification and preventing supply chain disruptions. The association supported the industry in its fight against the virus by waiving certification fees under Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex for mouth-nose masks. Due to international travel restrictions, the organisation introduced virtual audit guidelines to ensure a smooth and consistent certification process. In addition to these short-term measures, the auditing process continued: today, over 620,000 employees work in STeP by Oeko-Tex certified companies and thus benefit from environmentally friendly work processes and safe and socially acceptable working conditions.
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