All colours exist in nature
Pantone LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of X-Rite, Incorporated, is the world-renowned authority on colour. For 50 years, Pantone has been inspiring design professionals with products, services and leading technology for the colourful exploration and expression of creativity. In 1963, Lawrence Herbert, Pantone’s founder, created an innovative system for identifying, matching and communicating colours to solve the problems associated with producing accurate colour matches in the graphic arts community. His insight that the spectrum is seen and interpreted differently by each individual led to the innovation of the Pantone Matching System, a book of standardised colour in fan format. Pantone has since expanded its colour matching system concept to other colour-critical industries, including digital technology, fashion, home, plastics, architecture and contract interiors, and paint. Pantone was acquired by X-Rite, Incorporated in October 2007. Leatrice Eiseman is the Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute as well as the Director of the Eiseman Center for Color Information and Training. Recognised by the Wall Street Journal as one of the most influential people in the world of colour, Eiseman is the author of nine books on the subject. Lee’s academic background includes studies in colour, design and business, a degree in psychology from Antioch as well as certification from UCLA for advanced work in psychology. She has studied both fashion and interior design and has taught in both areas. Eiseman speaks to Fibre2fashion about colours, trends and branding.
This year, may be for the first time ever that we have two colours. Do you see more than two colours as the colours of a year?
There might be that possibility, but our determination is made when we view the overall "picture" of colour direction. We do not plan ahead to deliberately create something different, but rather to reflect the mood of the times. If we felt that more than two was a necessity, then we would incorporate that into our thinking processes.
Once your battery of trendwatchers from around the globe tell you the trends, what is the process you follow to arrive at the colour for a season?
The Colour of the Year selection process requires thoughtful consideration and trend analysis. To arrive at the selection each year, Pantone's colour experts at the Pantone Colour Institute comb the world looking for new colour influences. This can include the entertainment industry and films in production, traveling art collections and new artists, fashion, all areas of design, popular travel destinations, as well as new lifestyles, playstyles and socio-economic conditions. Influences may also stem from new technologies, materials, textures and effects that impact colour, relevant social media platforms and even up-coming sporting events that capture worldwide attention.
For 16 years, Pantone's Colour of the Year has influenced product development and purchasing decisions in multiple industries, including fashion, home furnishings and industrial design, as well as product packaging and graphic design.
Two pastels are the colours for 2016. How do you expect them to play out in fabrics and apparel, and the overall fashion industry?
The combination of Serenity and Rose Quartz was featured on the runways for both men and women and highlighted in the Pantone Fashion Colour Report Spring 2016 with Rachel Pally, Kung Katherine, Leanne Marshall, David Hart and BCBG, among others who incorporated this harmonious colour pairing into their recent collections. Playful yet sophisticated, this colour duo makes a striking statement on its own, though it works equally well as an accent when joined with other shades.
With playful escapism as a theme for many, the pairing of shades can be expressed through patterning, plaids, floral prints, striping and colour blocking. Variations of this hue will be seen in a variety of textures that make it wearable throughout the year, from warming and comforting plush wools and faux furs to more ethereal feeling, lightweight linens and cottons.
Serenity and Rose Quartz are also a popular choice for jewellery and fashion accessories, including handbags, hats, footwear and wearable technology.
This engaging combination also works easily with other mid-tones, including cooler greens and purples. Pair with Lime Popsicle and Silver for some splash and sparkle, Old Rose for some tender nostalgia, or the velvety Fondue Fudge, which makes for a rich background.
Has mankind created a colour that does not exist in nature? Is it conceivable?
All colours exist in nature in some form. The example is in the changing colourations of rock formations, of minerals or peacock feathers and mallard ducks, moths and butterflies where there are infinite varieties and nuances of colour. Technology could eventually render some aberration that is not currently seen in nature, but we are not there yet.
India as a country is a riot of colours from each state to state. How do you hope to see this diversity meld into a single hue?
In many areas of the world where there are member-states, a specific symbolic colour is used for each state that has special significance to that state. For example, here in the United States, every state has a state colour, or a flower of a certain colour that has special meaning to them, but the term United States implies that there is one set of colours (red, white and blue) that represents a special meaning for the entire country. I believe it is up to the inhabitants of a particular area, such as India, to come to that decision as they best understand the culture and needs of the populace.
When you see colour, what is the thought thatstrikes you?
I think first of the psychological impact of the colour-what emotion does it arouse or satisfy. Of course, aesthetic value is very important to me, but I do not enter into colour decisions with any dogma attached to it. Everything about colour is context-how, when and where it is used and with what other colours it is to be used with. That is the biggest challenge and the part I personally enjoy the most.
How can apparel/textile brands best communicate with colour?
There is no one "magic bullet" about colour usage. Again, it is about context. What is appropriate for one company, product or environment might not be appropriate to the needs or the messaging of another. This is why it is suggested to have professional help in colour consulting services so that the proper choice is evaluated and decided upon.
Personally, what is your favourite colour and what is the appeal in this colour?
At this point in time, it is the purple family that holds personal interest as I appreciate the complexity of the colour and all of the possibilities for combinations. However, I am now drawn to the combination of Pantone's "Rose Quartz" when combined with "Serenity" (blue) for obvious reasons.
How different or similar are people who have red, black and white as their favourite colours?
This is too specific a question to answer. I would need to know a lot more about the individuals in order to make that evaluation.
How does colour affect the psychology of a brand? What will be your five key tips for people stepping into the business of branding on how best to use colour?
My responses are to both the questions. As cited in my book 'Colour Messages and Meanings-a Pantone Colour Resource': "When a colour and design "signature" is established, it becomes a brand identifier that reinforces the image in the marketplace across many levels of communication."
The following steps should be taken: (i) Know your target audience; (ii) Explore market research regarding the ultimate consumers' perception of colour preferences and product; (iii) Be mindful of your biggest competitors and do not repeat similar colours. You will appear to be a follower rather than leader; (iv) Always keep the psychology of colour a major priority when choosing appropriate brand colours; and (v) Be certain that all colour information is current, credible and reliable.
