Interview with Mr Hans Jürgen Hübner

Schoeller is an internationally-anchored high-tech company based in Switzerland. It is specialized in the development and manufacturing of innovative fabrics and smart textile technologies. We are a worldwide leader in specific market niches. The roots of the Schoeller holding company – Schoeller Textil AG - date back to 1868.

The division “fabrics” includes the premium range "Innovative Fabrics by Schoeller Switzerland”. This is a highly functional and ecologically safe fabric range for sport, work, lifestyle, fashion and interior design, which is developed and produced in Switzerland. In addition, beginning in 2001, the fabric portfolio contains textiles produced in the joint-venture of Schoeller and Formosa Taffeta, branded as “SFTC”-fabrics and produced in Taiwan. The newest member of the Schoeller is a line “Schoeller Turkey” which mainly manufactures lifestyle fabrics, in Turkey.

The “technologies” division is handled by Schoeller Technologies AG, a subsidiary of Schoeller Textil AG, founded in 2004. It holds the intellectual property rights (patents and trademarks) of textile technologies developed by the Swiss company. Schoeller Technologies organises their worldwide availability mainly together with selected distribution partners and supports the licensees in marketing and branding.

In addition, Schoeller holds shares in Rotecno AG of Switzerland, specializing in medical textiles. Schoeller is represented in the major sales markets with its own subsidiaries and agencies, and has joint-venture partners in Hong Kong, Taiwan, India and Turkey.

The main markets for the premium fabric range “innovative fabrics by Schoeller Switzerland” are the sports markets such as mountaineering, hiking, ski and snowboard, motorcycling, horse riding and golf. We also provide textiles for sportswear, leisurewear and workwear applications as well as office furniture shoes and luggage. The sftc-range is mainly used in sports and leisurewear, for some active sports sectors and for luggage.

With our intelligent c_change™-membrane we are oriented towards the highly functional water and wind proof garments in all sectors (mainly sports, fashion, and workwear). What makes c_changeTM so unique and distinguishes it from conventional membranes is the dynamic function of the system. Familiar systems react statically to climate change, while c_changeTM adapts to altering temperatures and activities. As soon as a higher ambient temperature or body heat results in greater moisture, the flexible polymer structures of the hydrophilic c_change™ membrane opens up, allowing moisture vapour to escape quickly to the outside air. Conversely, when the body produces less heat, the polymer structure contracts, retaining body warmth and providing protection from the cold.

The new coldblack® textile technology offers heat reflection and UV protectionand is appropriate for all outdoor areas. coldblack is suitable for garment and non-garment applications like marquees, awnings or tents.

Due to the virtually self-cleaning properties of the NanoSphere® textile finish, this schoeller® technology is ideal for the clothing market, commercial textiles, home textiles, upholstery and the automotive industry.

3XDRY® finish keeps the body dry from the inside and dry from the outside while allowing clothing to dry 6-8 times faster than garments without 3XDRY®. Suitable product areas of this Schoeller® technology are active sportswear, lifestyle, denim, men’s and women’s shirting, golf apparel, career wear, uniforms, fitness and training gear, military wear, workwear, lingerie and sleepwear, equestrian wear, fishing and hunting gear.

By the way, our textile technologies are applied in India through our Joint-Venture Company Schoeller Technologies India Ltd. in Mumbai.

Our experience is very good. With Huntsman we share the 3XDRY® feelgood technology since 2005; with Clariant, we market the self-cleaning NanoSphere® technology since 2007; and since summer 2008 we have had a cooperation with Clariant for our new sun reflector and UV protector, coldblack®. The cooperation with the two global players enables us to provide customers everywhere with the benefits offered by our technologies on a local basis. For the mentioned technologies Schoeller Technologies AG owns the patents and is responsible for marketing and branding activities. The respective technical partner is handling all matters of sales, production and distribution worldwide, and the transfer of technical know-how and quality assurance towards new and existing customers, predominantly textile mills.

I’d like to remind that the textile specialty chemistry industry doesn’t stand alone when answering this question. While there are more and more inexpensive textiles available, consumers are becoming increasingly educated about responsible, ecologically minded manufacturing and are now more willing to pay more for products they can trust. This means that textiles with a great new performance and guaranteed responsible production have a greater chance. Therefore, we need specialty chemicals and fibres or other ingredients with an innovative potential and an ecologically safe origin. Such textiles and the industries behind have a greater chance today and in the future. I even would say the ecological part is the key for the future of the industry.

In the 1970s/80s production in Western Europe was too expensive and Schoeller was forced to develop outstanding textiles in order to find a niche in which to survive. Our goal became to develop the best stretch and protective fabrics. Throughout our history we have been the first company to produce stretch fabrics for ski pants which changed the style of mountaineering wear completely. This innovative, specialty strategy led to our creation in the 80s for the first motorcycling textiles that incorporated tear resistant Kevlar® fibers. Being creative and searching out the “new” has led us to the claim “innovative fabrics” and this is the driving force behind our daily business. Key factors for a successful textile product today are for me function/benefit; ecology; look and feel; availability/time – if a product is a ”me too” product, then only the price is essential.

Due to modern textile technologies, natural fibres can essentially be upgraded. Cotton, a cellulose fibre which has been in use for 5000 years, has an enormous world market share. Its properties such as comfort, high absorbency, durability and good wash ability make it very popular. The cotton look and it’s specific touch are familiar globally. It is a logical step to adapt cotton or even wool to meet the high requirements of today’s consumer. Cotton with the advanced moisture management system 3XDRY®, enhances the natural characteristics and adds new functions. Cotton can absorb up to 32% of its own weight in moisture, but this remains stored in the clothing over a long period. Due to the hydrophilic finish on the inside of the textile, body moisture is more efficiently absorbed, spread over a wide area and can then evaporate faster. This also shortens the drying time after washing. Also NanoSphere® offers new properties to cotton or wool or silk textiles, as the extremely high water, stain and oil repelency of this textile finish keeps the textiles clean for longer time. And the fact that they consequently need less washing assists to save water, energy and detergent.

To make a product successful, all parts of the developing, manufacturing and marketing process need to be up-to-date and to go hand-in-hand. But of course if the basic idea behind a new development is not outstanding, the product has no chance to become “unique” and to sell well. R+D are essential for higher priced products, yes.

For many years Schoeller has been aware of its responsibility to people and their environment. We use only tested, first class raw materials, chemicals, and dyestuffs for production. Safe and sustainable textile production is guaranteed at Schoeller by adherence to the bluesign®-Standard (see www.bluesign.com: you have interviewed in Face2Face), the world’s most stringent textile production guideline. bluesign® examines all textile-relevant substances starting with the very beginning of the process, through the finishing process, and even looks at the end product. Therefore, harmful substances are eliminated before production even begins and/or are managed according to "Best Available Technology" in the process to guarantee a safe end product. Schoeller was involved in the development process of this global textile standard and was the first textile company in the world to be honoured with bluesign® award in January 2008.

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