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Interview with Nick Brayton

Nick Brayton
Nick Brayton
President
Woolrich
Woolrich

Our greatest challenge is finding partners to do the finishing work at the volume we require
Nick Brayton, President, Woolrich shares his ideas on the current scenario, changing trends, and future prospects of the wool industry with Fibre2Fashion correspondent Ilin Mathew. Synopsis: Nick Brayton is a seventh generation descendant of Woolrich founder John Rich, who began producing woolens in the United States in 1830. Since taking over as company president in the spring of 2012, Brayton has been integral in refocusing the company's efforts to increase its domestic product assortment. Today, the brand sells a mix of products sourced domestically and throughout the world. Its products include a range of goods from outdoor clothing to outdoor furniture. Still, headquartered in the little village of Woolrich, the company has successfully integrated tradition with modernization in its products. Excerpts:

Woolrich has 180 years of experience in the wool industry. Is there anything that is still the same in the wool industry?

While today’s outerwear market is filled with synthetic “super fibers” and technologies, people still reaching for the comfort and warmth of their wool garments. Essentially it hasn’t changed much in the last 180 years. Wool is still sheared from sheep and woven on looms, only in larger volumes than ever before. The properties of wool make it the perfect fabric for almost all weather conditions and activities- it's a natural insulator, it's breathable, it's temperature regulating, it's durable and stays warm, even when it gets wet. Wool is the original technical fabric, it's here to stay, and we have over 180 years of experience as proof.
 

Woolrich is the oldest continually running mill in the US. According to you, what are the major challenges faced by the US woolen clothing manufacturers?

Our greatest challenge is finding partners to do the finishing work at the volume we require. We can produce great wool fabrics twenty-four hours a day, but in the end there needs to be a place to pass it onto for the sewing and finishing. Much of this infrastructure was lost when manufacturers went over seas.

How do you foresee the future prospects of 'Made in USA’ woolen clothing sector?

We feel it's more than a trend, that it’s a movement that keeps gaining momentum. We are working hard to help with that momentum, and are doing our part to increase wool production here in the USA.

Technological advancements and new production methods have led to many changes in the traditional wool fabric. Can you tell us about the major changes that have taken place in the woolen industry over the years and how have they impacted the entire industry?

Blends have been a major advancement in the wool industry. Anti-shrink blends have had the biggest impact on the industry, but blending has also helped to improve hand and performance qualities. It seems like each year there's something new out there or companies are finding new ways to use and enhance the classic fiber.

What is your opinion about the hybrid fabric made by mixing traditional wool with man-made fibers to create clothing? How do you foresee the prospects of hybrid garments?

We see this as the next coming of wool. Our design team has been hard at work designing several outerwear pieces that do just that. We are using wool in ways we never have before, including mixing it with other fabrics to make modern versions of some of our classic garments.

How big and important is the European market for your company? At what rate do you expect your company to grow in the coming years in the European market?

The European community is a very big opportunity for us. We currently have a great presence and excellent positioning in Europe, and feel that with some of our retail initiatives there is still a lot of opportunity for further penetration.

Do you think that future global trade will be driven by technological innovation, shifts in production and consumption patterns, and demographics? Can you expand on that a bit?

We do, but it is very speculative. We know the importance of innovation and we hope that Made in USA only becomes an even more important factor in consumer behavior.

Woolgrowers could stand to benefit from a fashion trend toward tweed and tartan. Do you agree? Can you elaborate on it?

The tartan and tweed fashion trend has been very good for our business. We’ve increased our wool output of fabrics as well as wool sourced products over the last several years. Consumers currently have a strong appetite for wool for its performance properties. The increased demand is definitely benefiting woolgrowers, however it’s a commodity and a volatile market that affects everything from consumer pricing down to the growers. Like many things, it’s a case of supply and demand, and when the there is demand it’s good for the growers.

The ongoing 'Global Warming’ is going to be marked by more extreme temperatures. Do you foresee a rise in demand for woolens in the tropical regions during winters?

Definitely. The great thing about wool is its ability to regulate temperature. It’s already great for both ends of the heat spectrum. However, the future course of woolen innovation will likely lead to products that are even more relevant to those markets.

Let me turn our attention to environmental sustainability in textile production. The challenges of working out whether textiles are sourced, produced or manufactured ethically are magnified by the plethora of eco-labeling schemes that apply to the industry. Do you agree? Please explain.

The ecological aspect of our business is always taken into consideration when we move forward. Today’s market is very polarized. Consumers are demanding more information about their products and manufacturers are being more transparent about their supply chains. Between that, our economy, and the tragedies in Bangladesh, we see it all pointing to an increase in domestic manufacturing where carbon footprints are reduced, oversight is improved, and we grow jobs.

Finally, what do you think is the importance of history in shaping a brand?

For us it is everything. Our history makes up the DNA of this brand and we are so lucky to have a brand that has been around for 180 years. That doesn't mean brands can't be successful without the same history, but they certainly don’t have the experience, stories, archives and inspiration that Woolrich has. Today so many brands are crafted and guided to success. When John Rich started Woolrich he saw a market opportunity for a product he could make and we are seeing a resurgence of makers in this country, not just marketers. And you’ll find with just about every great brand today that behind it was a maker of a quality product. And whether it’s of 5 years or 200 years it’s the maker’s story that provides the strength behind the brand.
Published on: 19/12/2013

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.