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Interview with Richard Boide

Richard Boide
Richard Boide
Managing Director
Dormeuil
Dormeuil

We offer a range of personalised and bespoke fabric solutions
Founded in 1842, the House of Dormeuil creates luxury cloths from the world’s finest fibres and designs ready-to-wear collections that offer unrivalled quality and a distinct style. Dormeuil Cloth oversees each stage of the manufacturing process—from raw material to finished product—blending modern production methods with 182 years of traditional English heritage. Dormeuil Fashion strives to modernise this legacy by offering “French elegance with a British touch” through outstanding ready-to-wear pieces and a high-quality made-to-measure service. Speaking to Fibre2Fashion, Managing Director Richard Boide gives insights into Dormeuil’s legacy, vision, and craftsmanship.

The luxury textile sector often balances tradition with modern technology. What are some of the most significant technological advancements currently shaping the industry, and how do they impact fabric quality and performance?

Technological advancements in weaving, advanced dyeing techniques, and enhanced finishing processes are transforming the luxury textile sector. These innovations allow for greater precision, durability, and unique textures—all while maintaining the hallmark elegance of luxury fabrics. For example, moisture-wicking and stretch technologies have been seamlessly integrated into our offerings without compromising the look or feel of the material. By combining tradition with cutting-edge innovation, Dormeuil continues to elevate fabric quality and redefine what is possible in the textile industry.

Dormeuil is known for its rich heritage and exceptional quality in fabrics. How do you balance innovation with maintaining the traditional craftsmanship that defines Dormeuil?

We balance innovation with traditional craftsmanship by respecting the tradition, while also maintaining modernity and innovation. At Dormeuil, we take great pride in our rich history, and we continue to honour the timeless craftsmanship that has been passed down through generations. Fashion is all about embracing new materials, designs, and techniques. While our fabrics are still created using the same meticulous techniques that have defined us, we also experiment with new finishes and blends that provide modern functionality without compromising the luxury and elegance that define Dormeuil. This fusion of the old and new allows us to create fabrics that are not only timeless but also suited for today’s modern consumer. By carefully integrating cutting-edge technology, whether in fabric development or design processes, we ensure that our creations continue to push boundaries while still adhering to the quality and craftsmanship that have always set us unique. This approach allows us to remain true to our heritage while catering to contemporary tastes and needs, creating garments that are both classic and forward-thinking. In essence, it is about blending the past and the present to create something that is both timeless and relevant. At Dormeuil, we believe that this is the true art of balancing tradition with innovation.

Could you share some insights into the fabric creation process at Dormeuil? What specific steps does the company take to ensure premium quality at every stage?

At Dormeuil, fabric creation is a meticulous process that combines centuries-old craftsmanship with modern innovation to ensure the highest standards of quality. We work in cloth partnership with a handful of specialised mills in England and Italy, with whom we have long-standing relationships. This partnership allows us access to the latest developments in fabric technology and materials, enabling us to stay ahead of trends while maintaining our commitment to excellence. The process begins with careful sourcing of the finest raw materials, for example in Australia and New Zealand for fine merino wool, or Ladakh for the finest and whitest cashmere. Our design and development teams based in Paris and Yorkshire convert these delicate fibres into fine worsted and woollen fabrics, working carefully on the texture, drape, and appearance, selecting only those that will deliver both visual appeal and exceptional performance. In the process, we of course experiment with blends and finishes that improve comfort, durability, and functionality, without compromising on the luxury and specific design DNA Dormeuil is known for.
Quality control is integral at every stage of the process. From raw material selection to final product inspection, we conduct rigorous testing to ensure that each fabric meets our standards of perfection.

Dormeuil fabrics have a global reputation. How do you approach tailoring your collections to cater to various markets around the world, particularly in terms of regional preferences and trends?

Our global reputation is built on understanding and adapting to the unique needs of diverse markets. By working closely with local tailors, designers, and distributors, we align our collections with regional preferences, whether it is climate-specific functionality or cultural aesthetics. For instance, lightweight blends might be preferred in warmer regions, while richer textures resonate in colder climates. Intricate micro designs as well bolder designs will, for example, be greatly appreciated in India, while other markets may require more subdued or tone down designs to fit their needs. This sensitivity to local nuances, combined with the universal appeal of Dormeuil’s elegance and quality, allows us to create collections that are globally admired and locally relevant.

How do you approach global market diversification, particularly with shifting consumer preferences and economic challenges across different regions?

Global diversification is about understanding the nuances of each market while staying true to Dormeuil’s core values. We conduct in-depth research to align our collections with regional tastes and lifestyles, offering tailored solutions that resonate with local consumers. For instance, we create lightweight, breathable fabrics for tropical climates and richer textures for colder regions. At the same time, we leverage our strong global presence to navigate economic challenges, ensuring agility and resilience in our approach. This balance between local relevance and global consistency keeps Dormeuil ahead in an evolving market.

With increasing demand for eco-friendly materials, how do you see the luxury textile industry evolving in terms of sustainable sourcing and manufacturing practices?

The luxury textile industry is at a pivotal moment, where sustainability is becoming a cornerstone of its evolution. Natural fibres will remain central, with an increased focus on sourcing materials responsibly and reducing waste throughout the supply chain. Advanced technologies will enable more efficient production methods, minimising environmental impact while preserving quality. Transparency and traceability will also play a critical role, as consumers demand greater visibility into the origins of their fabrics.
At Dormeuil, sustainability is embedded in our philosophy. We have invested significantly in responsibly sourced materials, such as our RWS-certified wool or the blockchain technology, and continue to innovate in processes that uphold both environmental standards and our heritage of craftsmanship. This commitment ensures we align luxury with environmental responsibility, creating fabrics that are as ethical as they are exceptional.

What sustainable practices or initiatives has Dormeuil implemented in recent years?

At Dormeuil, as mentioned earlier, sustainability is integral to our values and practices, aligning with our commitment to both luxury and environmental responsibility. We recognise that fashion must evolve to address its environmental impact, and we are dedicated to minimising our carbon footprint throughout the fabric creation process. One of our key sustainable practices involves the careful sourcing of natural fibres. We prioritise sustainable materials which are responsibly sourced and produced with minimal environmental impact. Our design team works closely with our partners to select materials that meet rigorous sustainability standards, ensuring that each fabric not only meets the highest quality but also adheres to environmental guidelines. We have also focused on reducing waste in our production processes. We have invested in reducing energy consumption in our facilities and are working towards carbon-neutral production by implementing energy-saving initiatives and exploring renewable energy options.

With the growing interest in traceability and transparency, what are some effective strategies for luxury textile companies to communicate the origins and quality of their materials to consumers?

Traceability is about storytelling—sharing the journey of a fabric from its origin to its final form. At Dormeuil, we emphasise transparency through certifications, detailed product information, partnerships with trusted suppliers, and even the blockchain technology for our Tonik Wool quality. We leverage digital tools to showcase the craftsmanship and care involved at every step. This not only builds trust with our clients but also celebrates the artistry and sustainability behind our fabrics. Communicating these values effectively ensures consumers feel a deeper connection to the product and the brand.

As luxury fashion becomes more accessible through digital channels, how can textile companies maintain exclusivity while also embracing the digital transformation of the industry?

Embracing digital transformation does not mean compromising exclusivity; it enhances it. For Dormeuil, digital platforms allow us to showcase our heritage and craftsmanship to a global audience while maintaining an air of refinement. Through curated content, virtual consultations, and bespoke digital experiences, we can engage with clients in a personalised and sophisticated manner. By combining the convenience of technology with the allure of exclusivity, we ensure that our brand remains aspirational in a digital-first world.

Dormeuil is known for its focus on exclusivity and luxury. How do you ensure that this exclusivity is maintained, especially as luxury fashion becomes more accessible?

Exclusivity lies at the very core of Dormeuil’s identity. Our approach begins with carefully curated materials, limited production runs, and a relentless focus on craftsmanship. Every fabric is a testament to rare fibres, refined techniques, and decades of expertise. This commitment ensures that Dormeuil remains a symbol of distinction, even as luxury becomes more accessible. By focusing on bespoke offerings, collaborations with high-end tailors, and limited availability of our most exclusive fabrics, we deliver creations that cater to discerning clients seeking authenticity and individuality over mass-market luxury.

Innovation is a critical part of Dormeuil’s approach, with products like Exel Blue and Amadeus. What are some recent innovations that you are most excited about, and how are they impacting the textile market?

Our latest innovation, Gold Forever, is a groundbreaking suiting fabric made from Super 160’s wool, certified by the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), combined amazingly with 23.75-carat gold powder. This fabric represents a significant step forward in luxury textiles by combining sustainability with exceptional craftsmanship and was developed specifically with India in mind as we appreciate the very special connection our Indian customers have towards gold.
The innovation lies in a unique combination of yarns including the using of a filament yarn to give this very rich gold look combined with a very special finishing process: the fabric is immersed in tanks of gold powder mixed with water, and high-pressure treatment ensures that the gold penetrates the fibres. This results in a subtle, sparkling finish that enhances the visual appeal of the fabric without compromising its softness or durability.
By introducing Gold Forever, Dormeuil addresses two key trends in the textile market: the demand for sustainable luxury and the pursuit of unique, high-value materials. RWS certification reflects a commitment to ethical sourcing, while the integration of gold introduces an exclusive design element that sets new standards in high-end suiting fabrics. This innovation positions Dormeuil at the forefront of luxury textile development, appealing to discerning clients seeking rarity and responsibility in their choices.

How has Dormeuil adapted its business strategy to stay resilient in today’s challenging economic climate, particularly with regard to fluctuations in demand and supply chain disruptions?

Dormeuil’s resilience is rooted in a proactive and flexible approach to both production and client engagement. To mitigate supply chain disruptions, we have strengthened our collaboration with trusted suppliers, ensuring consistent access to the finest materials and maintaining the exceptional quality that defines our fabrics. We have also diversified markets for our products, selling fabrics to more than 120 countries each year and being active on various business segments of the luxury fabric industry.
In response to fluctuating demand, we have refined our stock-service programmes, allowing us to keep our most popular fabrics readily available for clients. This enables us to respond swiftly to market needs while upholding the standards of craftsmanship and reliability that our clients expect.
We have also diversified our product range, introducing innovative fabrics such as sustainable and performance-driven options, which cater to the shifting priorities of consumers. These initiatives ensure Dormeuil remains a trusted and resilient partner in the ever-changing textile market.

Customisation is increasingly popular in the luxury segment. How does Dormeuil accommodate clients seeking personalised or bespoke fabric solutions?

Our clients have unique tastes and preferences, and we offer a range of personalised and bespoke fabric solutions to cater to their individual needs. Customisation is at the heart of our approach, allowing our clients to create fabrics that reflect their personal style and vision. Our bespoke fabric service allows clients to choose from an extensive range of premium fibres, colours, and finishes to create a completely personalised textile. Whether it is a custom blend of fibres, a unique colour combination, or a special finish, our team works closely with each client to bring their ideas to life, ensuring that the fabric meets both their aesthetic and functional needs. Also, we offer bespoke tailoring for garments, with fabrics crafted specifically to suit individual measurements and preferences. Our experienced craftsmen and designers collaborate with clients, ensuring every piece is perfectly tailored to their specifications. Through this bespoke service, we aim to provide our clients with an unparalleled level of luxury and individuality, offering them fabrics and garments that are truly one-of-a-kind. At Dormeuil, personalisation is not just about making something special; it is about creating an experience that elevates the art of luxury tailoring to a new level of sophistication.

Dormeuil has a strong connection with high-end tailors and designers worldwide. How do these partnerships influence your product offerings and brand strategy?

Our collaborations with tailors and designers are essential to Dormeuil’s evolution. These partnerships provide valuable insights into emerging trends, customer preferences, and the functional needs of garments. By understanding their requirements, we develop fabrics that marry aesthetics with practicality, enhancing the tailoring experience. These relationships also reinforce Dormeuil’s commitment to excellence, as we continuously refine our offerings to align with the standards and creativity of the world’s finest artisans. This collaborative spirit shapes our brand strategy, ensuring Dormeuil remains synonymous with innovation and timeless elegance.

What is your vision for the future of Dormeuil, especially in terms of expanding the brand’s legacy, adapting to industry changes, and possibly embracing new markets?

Dormeuil’s future lies in continuing to evolve while staying true to our heritage of exceptional quality and craftsmanship. Expanding our legacy means embracing innovation without compromising the standards that have defined us for over 180 years. Our focus will be on continuing to build trust with tailors and enhancing their creativity in crafting remarkable suits and jackets. At the same time, we will innovate and develop our fabric collections, some of which are already considered as true brands and recognised worldwide: Amadeus, Tonik, Millennial, Ambassador, …. This will continue to further position Dormeuil not just as a fabric manufacturer, but as a leading luxury brand.
As the market evolves, we will adapt by expanding into new areas, including more casual and lifestyle collections. This will involve introducing innovative fabrics such as jerseys, while maintaining the luxury and craftsmanship that our clients expect. Through these steps, Dormeuil aims to continue gaining the trust of our partners, fostering creativity, and pushing the boundaries of what is possible in textile innovation, ensuring we remain at the forefront of the industry for years to come.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 07/12/2024

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.