Interviews
Apparel sector to adopt scientific fit practices
30 May '11
5 min read
Dr Jochen Balzulat, director 3D body scanning, Assyst Bullmer UK partner Human Solutions GmBH is also committed to delivering the technology that: “adapts products to the real human shape by providing detailed information on customers' sizes and shapes.” The Human Solution 3D laser body scanner collects detailed measurements of size, shape and posture from which it produces size tables. This vital marketing information can be used to determine market share potential for companies thinking about exporting product into new overseas markets. It is also used to produce 3D models upon which 2D patterns can be “thrown”, modified and validated.
He warned: “If you do this visualisation you need a realistic shape of your target customers across your size range.” For companies that cannot afford a customised consumer data programme, shape data by population can be obtained relatively easily and inexpensively through the company's on-line iSize morphological data taken from existing global 3D scanning projects.
Andrew Crawford, managing director of consumer shape research specialist Sizemic has worked extensively on a number of the UK's largest shape collection projects including Size UK. He advised delegates to: “move away from its fixation with linear measurements as they have little to do with body shape.”
The industry must acknowledge that the classic hourglass figure of the 1940s and 50 is now straighter and less curvy. Retailers who have invested in 3D shape research not only know the shape of their target customers but what percentage of their offer would fit that population, what adjustments they need to make to fit more of that target market and even how the shape of their preferred fit models compare with the body profiles of the consumer population.
Putting the theory into practice is Jackie Lewis, head of technology ladieswear with the UK's largest e-tailer Shop Direct Group, SDG. She gave delegates a fascinating insight into how SDG developed and launched its new 50+ fashion brand isme.com. Recognising that body shape changes as we get older SDG tasked it technical teams and isme designers to create: “Fashion with no age barrier” and to focus on women between 50 and 65 years where the average dress size is 14. Body shape data taken from real women in the target population helped isme designers produce clothes that fit.
New sleeve lengths, neck drops, hemlines, revised bust darts, rise lengths over tummies together with discrete control panels in trousers, curved waist bands, trouser leg lengths according to preferred heel sizes were all taken into account and patterns were redefined to suit the target shape. Then real women were invited to wear and try the garments and their feedback informed new designs. Crucially isme is communicating the technical differences to the customer so they understand why the clothes fit them better.
Click here for more details
He warned: “If you do this visualisation you need a realistic shape of your target customers across your size range.” For companies that cannot afford a customised consumer data programme, shape data by population can be obtained relatively easily and inexpensively through the company's on-line iSize morphological data taken from existing global 3D scanning projects.
Andrew Crawford, managing director of consumer shape research specialist Sizemic has worked extensively on a number of the UK's largest shape collection projects including Size UK. He advised delegates to: “move away from its fixation with linear measurements as they have little to do with body shape.”
The industry must acknowledge that the classic hourglass figure of the 1940s and 50 is now straighter and less curvy. Retailers who have invested in 3D shape research not only know the shape of their target customers but what percentage of their offer would fit that population, what adjustments they need to make to fit more of that target market and even how the shape of their preferred fit models compare with the body profiles of the consumer population.
Putting the theory into practice is Jackie Lewis, head of technology ladieswear with the UK's largest e-tailer Shop Direct Group, SDG. She gave delegates a fascinating insight into how SDG developed and launched its new 50+ fashion brand isme.com. Recognising that body shape changes as we get older SDG tasked it technical teams and isme designers to create: “Fashion with no age barrier” and to focus on women between 50 and 65 years where the average dress size is 14. Body shape data taken from real women in the target population helped isme designers produce clothes that fit.
New sleeve lengths, neck drops, hemlines, revised bust darts, rise lengths over tummies together with discrete control panels in trousers, curved waist bands, trouser leg lengths according to preferred heel sizes were all taken into account and patterns were redefined to suit the target shape. Then real women were invited to wear and try the garments and their feedback informed new designs. Crucially isme is communicating the technical differences to the customer so they understand why the clothes fit them better.
Click here for more details
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