Interviews
Vivienne Westwood exhibition at FIT in NYC
19 Jan '11
4 min read
The Museum at FIT and the Fashion Institute of Technology's Master of Arts program in Fashion and Textile Studies: History, Theory, Museum Practice present Vivienne Westwood, 1980-89 — the first exhibition to focus on Westwood's transformation from “street” provocateur to acclaimed fashion designer. Featuring more than 40 objects, including clothing, photographs, magazines, and videos, the exhibition will explore Westwood's design aesthetic, press coverage, and clientele.
Candidates for the Master of Arts degree in Fashion and Textile Studies at FIT present an annual exhibition at The Museum at FIT as part of their curriculum, taking on the roles of conservators, curators, educators, exhibition designers, publicists, registrars, and researchers. Drawing from the collection of The Museum at FIT, Vivienne Westwood, 1980-89 will feature iconic Westwood ensembles.
Westwood and her then-partner, Malcolm McLaren, first became known for their provocative punk clothing in the mid-1970s. While they presented runway collections for the first time in the early 1980s, their post-punk following was limited mostly to “outsider” fashion magazines and members of London's street culture.
In 1985, however, Westwood's clothing became more structured, feminine, and historically inspired. Between 1985 and 1989, her collections were shown in London, New York, and Paris, where they increasingly attracted the attention of the mainstream press, as well as the broader public. Westwood's importance to the fashion industry was recognized in 1990 when she was named British Designer of the Year.
Exhibition highlights from the first half of the decade will include a unisex ensemble from the Pirate collection of 1981 and an outfit from the influential Buffalo collection (Autumn/Winter 1982-83). The Buffalo ensemble features a satin bra intended to be visible — a cheeky, early example of the '80s trend of underwear as outerwear. Pirate and Buffalo were successful within a youth market niche.
After Westwood's separation from McLaren in 1985, her designs began to undergo a significant change in silhouette and inspiration. Turning the 19th-century cage crinoline (hoop skirt) into a flirty mini-skirt, Westwood explored a more structured, feminine shape. These “mini-crinis” caught the attention of the mainstream fashion press and widened Westwood's audience. A number of rare photographs featuring “mini-crini” ensembles taken for The Washington Post will be included in the exhibition.
A pair of Westwood's iconic “Rocking Horse” boots from the 1987 Harris Tweed collection will also be featured. This innovative style allowed the wearer to rock back and forth, creating an interesting dynamic in combination with the clothing from Harris Tweed: the collection drew inspiration from traditional British dress, while the footwear questioned the stability of those conventions.
An 18th-century-inspired “Statue of Liberty” corset and skirt from the influential Time Machine collection (Fall/Winter 1988-89) will show Westwood's remarkable mastery of historical corsetry. According to museum Director and Chief Curator Valerie Steele, the revival of the corset was “perhaps the most important of Westwood's innovations.”
Candidates for the Master of Arts degree in Fashion and Textile Studies at FIT present an annual exhibition at The Museum at FIT as part of their curriculum, taking on the roles of conservators, curators, educators, exhibition designers, publicists, registrars, and researchers. Drawing from the collection of The Museum at FIT, Vivienne Westwood, 1980-89 will feature iconic Westwood ensembles.
Westwood and her then-partner, Malcolm McLaren, first became known for their provocative punk clothing in the mid-1970s. While they presented runway collections for the first time in the early 1980s, their post-punk following was limited mostly to “outsider” fashion magazines and members of London's street culture.
In 1985, however, Westwood's clothing became more structured, feminine, and historically inspired. Between 1985 and 1989, her collections were shown in London, New York, and Paris, where they increasingly attracted the attention of the mainstream press, as well as the broader public. Westwood's importance to the fashion industry was recognized in 1990 when she was named British Designer of the Year.
Exhibition highlights from the first half of the decade will include a unisex ensemble from the Pirate collection of 1981 and an outfit from the influential Buffalo collection (Autumn/Winter 1982-83). The Buffalo ensemble features a satin bra intended to be visible — a cheeky, early example of the '80s trend of underwear as outerwear. Pirate and Buffalo were successful within a youth market niche.
After Westwood's separation from McLaren in 1985, her designs began to undergo a significant change in silhouette and inspiration. Turning the 19th-century cage crinoline (hoop skirt) into a flirty mini-skirt, Westwood explored a more structured, feminine shape. These “mini-crinis” caught the attention of the mainstream fashion press and widened Westwood's audience. A number of rare photographs featuring “mini-crini” ensembles taken for The Washington Post will be included in the exhibition.
A pair of Westwood's iconic “Rocking Horse” boots from the 1987 Harris Tweed collection will also be featured. This innovative style allowed the wearer to rock back and forth, creating an interesting dynamic in combination with the clothing from Harris Tweed: the collection drew inspiration from traditional British dress, while the footwear questioned the stability of those conventions.
An 18th-century-inspired “Statue of Liberty” corset and skirt from the influential Time Machine collection (Fall/Winter 1988-89) will show Westwood's remarkable mastery of historical corsetry. According to museum Director and Chief Curator Valerie Steele, the revival of the corset was “perhaps the most important of Westwood's innovations.”
Popular News
Leave your Comments
Editor’s Pick
Esteemed Clients
-Ltd..jpg?tr=w-120,h-60,c-at_max,cm-pad_resize,bg-ffffff "Thermore (Far East) Ltd.")
.jpg?tr=w-120,h-60,c-at_max,cm-pad_resize,bg-ffffff "Telangana State Industrial Infrastructure Corporation Limited (TSllC Ltd)")
.jpg?tr=w-120,h-60,c-at_max,cm-pad_resize,bg-ffffff "Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF)")
