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Producing pantyhose designs with RDPJ & DJ machine series

22 Aug '12
5 min read

All these different options for creating specific designs can be worked by selecting the appropriate lapping in conjunction with the threading-in arrangement.

The yarn tension and stitch density can also be changed on the double-bar jacquard raschel machine. This enables different diameters to be worked, so that the shape of the pantyhose follows the contours of the leg. Bit by bit, the diameter can be altered along the heel, calf, knee, thigh, bottom and body section to match the body’s anatomy – which guarantees a perfect fit. The shape can be varied in this way by using the KAMCOS computer system with its Motion Control/Multi Speed facility. 
 
Net-like and dense constructions
Nothing is too difficult for KARL MAYER’s RDPJ and DJ machine series – whether they are producing open net constructions, intricate open-work patterns or simple stripes. The wide variety of patterns is produced by lappings, which are worked by two ground guide bars and the jacquard bars. A pillar stitch construction made from textured yarn is processed in the ground and a tricot construction is used in the jacquard area. The tricot can be changed to a pillar stitch or 2x1 lapping and is usually processed from core-spun yarn.
 
In addition to the pantyhose with its eye-catching designs made from a combination of different open-work constructions, the double-bar jacquard raschel machines can now produce fabrics having a dense construction. This opaque look is created by three new types of lapping developed by KARL MAYER. 
 
Style one is achieved by the already known combination of a pillar stitch lapping of the ground guide bar and a tricot lapping of the Jacquard bars. Due to the individual displacement of each of the Piezo-Jacquard needles, it is possible to work transparent and dense fabric areas as desired.
 
The second article shows a somewhat finer, very soft and extremely dense fabric quality made of pillar stitch and 2 x 1 lap – i.e. a patterning technique which does not allow any open work structures.
 
The third variant – a double tricot lap – is a standard lapping of a tricot machine. But the special feature is the threading of all the bars with half the gauge, resulting in a very soft, dense textile. In case of all three articles special attention was paid to the fact that the joint between the leg part and the trunk part is made by the Jacquard bars in a seamless and invisible way – a great advantage which could only be obtained by means of a profound development know-how.
 
With all three types, more needles are needed per piece when producing smooth pantyhose than when producing mesh patterns. This is because the open-work construction exhibits a high degree of stretch, which ensures that the hosiery fits well around the leg.
 
This smooth, warp-knitted pantyhose, with its flawless appearance and laddering resistance, has effectively extended the range of smooth, warp-knitted pantyhose that can be produced on the DJ and RDPJ series of machines – women can now be as tough as they like with their hosiery.

KARL MAYER

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