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The Institute for Marketecology launches GOTS Positive List System
Nov '10
The new GOTS Positive List System grants immediate access to all GOTS-compliant textile chemicals approved by the Institute for Marketecology (IMO) for processing of GOTS-certified textiles.

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is recognised as the leading processing standard for organic textiles which demands both health and environmental criteria for chemical inputs along the entire supply chain and in addition requires compliance with social criteria as well. Throughout the entire processing of GOTS-compliant products all chemical inputs have to meet the GOTS criteria and have to be approved by a GOTS certification body.

At present, already more than 1,000 dyestuff and pigment preparations including some natural dyes, such as plant-extracts, and over 1,500 textile auxiliaries from more than 100 different suppliers have been approved by IMO for processing of GOTS textiles.

“The new system marks another milestone in the organic textile production and highlights the important role of IMO as a pioneer in this sector” explains Dr. Peter Schaumberger, CEO of IMO Switzerland. “We are happy to provide again an additional service to all our customers with this new system. The web-based GOTS Positive List System keeps them up to date with the latest additions and eventual changes in the lists of GOTS-compliant textile colourants and auxiliaries.”

Another milestone in the organic textile production: More than 1,000 dyestuff and pigment preparations and over 1,500 textile auxiliaries are online.

Textile companies have immediate access to all lists of approved colorants and textile auxiliaries and can obtain additional information about restrictions and/or recommendations for the application of the approved products.

Mecki Naschke, head of the textile department at IMO, adds: “The assessment of textile chemicals requires very specific expertise in the fields of textile chemistry, (eco) toxicology as well as national and international chemical legislation and at a very early stage IMO has already engaged several experts for this. Proper assessment of the chemical inputs is the key to enable GOTS-conform textile processing. False approval triggers a lot of extra work for dye-houses, wet-processors and printers when they have to reformulate their recipes and could also lead to residues in the final product which would damage the image of the brand or retailer.”

Chemical suppliers have already been using the system since spring 2010 to apply for GOTS approval. They can follow the evaluation status online.

In order to ensure that the requirements of the criteria of the GOTS for chemical inputs are met, IMO counterchecks the Material Safety Data Sheets and further information provided by each chemical supplier. IMO also reserves the right to assign analyses by independent laboratories to confirm relevant properties.

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) was developed in a common approach by leading standard setters with the aim to define world-wide recognized requirements that ensure the organic status of textiles, from harvesting of raw materials, environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide credible assurance to the consumer. Approximately 1,500 companies with a total of 2,811 facilities in 55 countries around the world were certified to the organic apparel and textile standard in 2009. This is almost a 40 percent increase of facilities certified for the standard in 2008. The GOTS standard has been approved in 2006.

The Institute for Marketecology (IMO), Switzerland, is one of the first and most experienced international bodies for the inspection, certification and quality assurance of sustainably produced products. IMO has been active in the field of organic and sustainable certification world-wide for more than 20 years.

The Institute for Marketecology

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