Home / Knowledge / News / Textiles / Varanasi handloom cluster cries for help
Varanasi handloom cluster cries for help
09
May '11
There are about 100,000 handloom weavers in Varanasi, of which, presently 40,000 are active. In addition, there are hundreds of traders, dyers, designers, card-makers and ancillary support providers. The annual turnover (at Varanasi prices) is estimated at around Rs four billion.

With the main concentration being in Varanasi City, the activity has also spread to surrounding villages. However, 70% of weaver force is in the city, while 90% of city weaver workforce is Muslim, while it is 30% in villages.

The main product of Banaras Handloom Cluster is the Saree and its dominance still continues. The estimated share of Saree in the total value of output varies from 90-95%. The other products are dress material, furnishing fabrics, fashion accessories like stoles and scarves.

The saree segment typically consists of two categories. Satin-based work (largely from Karnataka yarn) and Organza type work (largely from Chinese yarn). The former is concentrated in North Varansi-Badi Bazar, Alaypura, Pilikothi. The later is visible in South Varnasi e.g. Madanpura. Most of the output (90%) gets sold at Banaras. The incidence of contractor weavers and co-op societies selling directly to traders /others outside Banaras is very limited.

There are two areas in which heavy work sarees apparently are exerting pressure on Banaras saree. First is exclusivity. It is possible to make each heavy work or embroidered saree exclusive because it is easy to make variations. This is not so in case of hand weaving and currently, there is emphasis on exclusiveness. A basic heavy saree may cost Rs. 2000 and work on it gets priced at, say, Rs. 8000; leading to a price of Rs. 10,000.

Unlike weave, work pricing is somewhat discretionary and offers scope to the retail outlets for larger margins. The heavy work trend according to market observers is undermining the significance of exquisite weave in the traditional aesthetic consciousness. This shift from weave to non-weave ornamentation, they apprehend, may not be temporary and poses a serious, long-term threat to the prospects of higher-end Banarasi saree.

In the lower-end segment, Banarasi saree does not possess long-established or traditional brand equity. It has grown quantitatively in this segment as a result of expansion of weaver force and market conditions, but competes with powerloom produced sarees. It manages to secure some volumes but mainly at the cost of helpless weaver. South India in recent years has emerged as an attractive destination for Banarasi sarees in lower-end segment.

At another level, the brand equity of high-profile retail outlets (e.g., Kala Niketan) now, in certain context, matches or exceeds that of Banarasi high-end sarees. This has affected the value-chain; such retail outlets securing a larger share of the price-cake; squeezing the share of Banaras-based players.


Must ReadView All

Courtesy: American Silk Mills

Textiles | On 18th Oct 2017

Sutlej Textiles adds American Silk Mills to its portfolio

Sutlej Textiles and Industries Ltd (STIL) has announced the...

Arvind Limited executive directors Punit Lalbhai (left) and Kulin Lalbhai explaining the project to Gujarat chief minister Vijay Rupani. Courtesy: Arvind Ltd

Apparel/Garments | On 18th Oct 2017

Arvind to set up mega apparel facility in Gujarat

Arvind Limited, one of India’s largest textile to retail...

Cotton stocks accumulating everywhere outside of China

Textiles | On 18th Oct 2017

Cotton stocks accumulating everywhere outside of China

Global cotton stocks outside of China are expected to rise by nearly...

Interviews View All

Frank Gossmann
Rotorcraft AG

‘RT3 motto is: Do not check millimetres, check colours.’

Cyril Pereira
Reed Exhibitions India, organiser of Asian Machine Tool Exhibition 2016

'Major problem in the textile machinery manufacturing industry is the lack ...

Divyesh Mashruwala
Akshar Industries

Surat dominates foiling, embossing and pleating

Suresh P Bagrecha

Komal Texfab, founded in 1981, is into manufacturing of knitted fabrics,...

C Dhandayuthapani

MAG Solvics Private Limited was established in 1991 to design and develop...

Nitesh Mittal

Kusumgar Corporates is a leading manufacturer of technical textiles and...

Kevin Nelson
TissueGen

Kevin Nelson, Chief Scientific Officer, TissueGen discusses the growing...

Marcel Alberts
Eurofibers

Coating at a fibre level is a practice not usually seen in the...

Iago Castro Asensio
RCfil Distribuciones S.L.

Iago Castro Asensio, International Business Manager of RCfil...

Mike Hoffman
Gildan Activewear SRL

Gildan Activewear, a manufacturer and marketer of branded clothing and...

Judy Frater
Somaiya Kala Vidya

Among the many honours showered on Frater, including Fulbright and Ford...

Sanjukta Dutta
Sanjukta's Studio

<b>Sanjukta Dutta</b> creates unique garments by clubbing prints of...

Press Release

Press Release

Letter to Editor

Letter to Editor

RSS Feed

RSS Feed

Submit your press release on


editorial@fibre2fashion.com

Letter To Editor






(Max. 8000 char.)

Search Companies





SEARCH

October 2017

Subscribe today and get the latest update on Textiles, Fashion, Apparel and so on.

news category


Related Categories:

Planning to Take the Leap towards
Sustainability?

Do you see sustainability as a route to business growth?

Yes No

Do you think the sustainability space has the needed tools and resources available for a business to lead change?

Yes No

Active Poll

Do you see sustainability as a route to business growth?

Yes
77.6%
No
13.4%
Skip
9.0%

Total Votes: 67

Do you think adopting a sustainable approach will be a profitable move for your business?

Yes No

Active Poll

Do you think the sustainability space has the needed tools and resources available for a business to lead change?

Yes
61.2%
No
28.4%
Skip
10.4%

Total Votes: 67

Do you want the world to know about your sustainability journey and your business’ environmental footprint?

Yes No

Active Poll

Do you think adopting a sustainable approach will be a profitable move for your business?

Yes
85.1%
No
10.4%
Skip
4.5%

Total Votes: 67

Thanks for your valuable feedback. Claim your free latest sustainability e-book.

Active Poll

Do you want the world to know about your sustainability journey and your business’ environmental footprint?

Yes
74.6%
No
11.9%
Skip
13.4%

Total Votes: 67


E-News Insight
Subscribe Today and Get the
Latest News Update in Your Mail Box.
Advanced Search