Fast fashion has permanently changed the way the world dresses—the 20-year-trend cycle that was, until recently, considered the norm has now been replaced by monthly or even weekly updates. As a species, we are shopping more frequently, wearing our clothes less often and discarding them more quickly than we ever have before. And the price of this overconsumption is being borne squarely by the planet. Today, the fashion industry is responsible for nearly 10 per cent of greenhouse gas emissions, a number that is predicted to rise to 60 per cent by 2030, as per data released by the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC). It also contributes 20 per cent of the world’s industrial water pollution (as per figures from the World Bank). More alarmingly, research conducted by the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe has found that nearly 85 per cent of all textiles produced every year are sent to landfills.

At the same time, the way clothes are made also carries with it a significant human cost—numerous reports have pointed to the deleterious impacts of fast fashion manufacturing on developing nations. A recent paper published by the University of California has highlighted how textile workers in these countries are meagrely compensated and work for long hours in poor conditions—the 2013 collapse of Rana Plaza, a garment factory in Dhaka, Bangladesh, sparked concern and conversations about the longer-term implications of fast fashion production and consumption across the world.

Many producers also use chemicals in their production processes, which negatively affect the health of those converting these textiles into garments. Some of the most concerning among these are azo dyes that are used for vibrant hues but can break down into carcinogenic byproducts, formaldehydes that are used in textile finishing and can cause skin irritation and respiratory problems, as well as phthalates that can disrupt the endocrine system.

Alarming statistics such as these have prompted the rise of slower, more sustainable alternatives that are mindful of their environmental and social footprints. And, as the second largest producer of textiles globally with 45 million individuals directly employed by the sector, India is uniquely positioned to be at the forefront of driving this change.

A Legacy of Sustainability
India currently produces 95 per cent of the world’s handmade textiles, (as per the Economic Diplomacy Division of the Ministry of External Affairs), which are considered more sustainable than their factory-produced counterparts. These textiles are produced using artisanal handcrafting techniques and natural fibres such as cotton, silk, hemp and jute. Since traditional weaving and dyeing processes do not involve the use of machinery and energy, they have an innately lower carbon footprint. Further, the use of natural dyes that are derived from plants, fruit and minerals minimises the soil and water pollution that are attributed to toxic chemical dyes. Many Indian textile traditions incorporate recycling and upcycling and are practiced by communities as a way of life—supporting these clusters thus not only strengthens rural economies at the grassroots level but also enables the preservation of intergenerational knowledge, customs and wisdom. Today, several designers are making a conscious effort to incorporate more of these traditional textiles in their collections by combining them with contemporary designs. India is also the production hub for many top ateliers specialising in luxury fashion—a relationship that has only been acknowledged by the latter in recent times.

Time for Change
Developing India as a hub for sustainable fashion can present significant opportunities for entrepreneurs in the country. With customers globally becoming more conscious about socially, environmentally and ethically produced fashion solutions, India can cater to the growing demand by taking advantage of its abundant resources and human capital. Already, the country is a leader in mechanical recycling, with a well-developed value chain. Further, several apparel, fabric and yarn manufacturers are increasingly investing in sustainable technologies across dry and wet processes, improving their compliance through certifications and benchmarks, and creating product lines that are based on durable products based on natural fibres. Ethical fashion marketplaces that connect sustainable fashion brands with conscious consumers will not only spark more conversations with the criticality of sustainable production but also open the doors to new audiences. Of course, the onus of driving change on such a large scale cannot rest squarely on the shoulders of private players alone—public-private partnerships, alliances, and collaborations with stakeholders such as government, industry, NGOs and consumers will generate a multi-fold effect and enable the sharing of expertise and knowledge to different sectors, while also improving the policy framework for sustainable fashion. It is only when such concerted efforts are adopted that India will reach its true potential as a world leader in transforming the ways in which the world’s clothes are designed, created and disposed.