The Qipao (Cheongsam): History, Meaning, and Modern Style in Chinese American Culture

As China shifted politically, so did its fashion. After the fall of the Qing Dynasty, old-school gender roles tried to make a comeback, but young Chinese women weren’t having it. The early 20th century saw a feminist fire spark across the country. Intellectuals, students, and rebels used style as protest. Ditching foot binding and fighting for education, women embraced the qipao as a badge of modernity. By the late 1920s, it was declared the official national dress for women. Suddenly, the qipao was a movement.

Enter Madame Wellington Koo, the ultimate style icon of the era. A Chinese-Indonesian socialite with a taste for luxury and a love of tradition, she brought the qipao to global runways before runways were even a thing. With side slits, luxe Chinese silks, and custom tailoring, Koo redefined what it meant to be fashionable and fierce. She graced fashion magazines, stunned at international galas, and made sure the qipao wasn’t just a dress; it was a power move.

Of course, fashion is never a straight line. The Cultural Revolution hit pause on the qipao’s glam era, labelling it as too ‘bourgeois’. Practical workwear took over, and the qipao was tucked away except in places like Hong Kong, where designers fused traditional silhouettes with modern cuts and fabrics. Come the 1980s, there was a full-on cultural revival. The qipao sashayed back into the spotlight, now reserved for weddings, beauty pageants, and cinematic glamour. By the ‘90s, it was everywhere from Vogue spreads to mall mannequins, even hitting red carpets, thanks to celebs like Kate Moss.

Today, the qipao’s story is still unfolding. In the US, it’s more than a symbol of Chinese heritage; it’s a chameleon of style. It shows up at Lunar New Year parties, queer pride parades, indie fashion shows, and beyond. Sometimes it’s long and flowy, other times it’s sleeveless and punk rock. The modern qipao belongs to everyone, its tradition stitched into trend, culture sewn into confidence. Just like silk, it flows, reinvents, and never goes out of style.

Weaving Technique or Materials

What makes a qipao more than just a dress? It begins with the fabric. Traditionally crafted from rich, luxurious silk—and sometimes brocade or satin for a touch of opulence—the qipao is often adorned with symbolic motifs: dragons for power, phoenixes for grace, and peonies for prosperity. In the hands of a skilled artisan, it becomes wearable art.

Creating a qipao is far from simple. Each piece is meticulously tailored to fit as though it were made for the wearer—because it usually is. Skilled tailors take precise measurements of every curve and angle, often down to the last millimetre, to ensure a flawless, elegant fit. In Chinese American communities, especially in cultural hubs like San Francisco, New York, or Monterey Park, the older generation still seeks out master tailors who know the traditional methods by heart.

That said, today’s qipao game is getting a fresh remix. Young designers are playing with modern fabrics like cotton blends, lace, even denim (yes, denim!). But silk still reigns supreme. It drapes like a dream, catches the light just right, and feels like liquid luxury against the skin.

At its heart, the qipao is more than just a look; it’s about craftsmanship. It takes real talent to turn a plain bolt of fabric into something iconic. Every stitch and seam carry tradition, precision, and a little bit of magic.

Cultural and Religious Relevance

In Chinese culture, clothing carries deep symbolism, and the qipao is no exception. It is often worn during Chinese New Year to attract good fortune, especially when made in vibrant red or gold. Red symbolises happiness and prosperity, while gold represents wealth—combine the two, and it becomes a lucky charm in dress form.

The qipao also plays a central role in Chinese weddings, where brides may wear a red silk qipao during the tea ceremony or reception. In Chinese American weddings, it’s common for brides to do a “double dress” moment wearing a white western gown for the ceremony and switching into a qipao for the party. Cue the applause!

While the dress isn’t religious per se, it does hold spiritual meaning in some contexts. Dragons and phoenixes embroidered on the fabric often symbolise yin and yang, balance, and harmony. Some qipaos also feature lotus flowers, symbolising purity and enlightenment in Buddhist traditions.

In the Chinese American community, wearing a qipao is a way to honour the ancestors, celebrate heritage, and carry cultural symbols into the modern day. It’s the personal flag of identity worn proudly, and always with style.

How It’s Worn

• Traditionally, the qipao is worn with heels and minimal accessories, letting the dress take centre stage.
• Hair is often styled into elegant buns or adorned with jade hairpins, while makeup remains classic—with signature red lips and winged eyeliner completing the look. In Chinese American families, this look is especially common at formal events like banquets, Lunar New Year dinners, and cultural performances.
• But fashion evolves and so did the qipao. Today’s youth in the Chinese American community are reinterpreting the dress in fun, edgy ways.
• Pairing a short qipao with combat boots? Done. Throwing a leather jacket over it? Yes, queen. Wearing it over jeans for an art show? Absolutely.
• It’s also gender-bending. While traditionally a women’s dress, the qipao is being reimagined by all genders. Some men wear fitted versions or create fusion looks that mix masculine tailoring with traditional prints.
• The key takeaway? There is no single right way to wear a qipao. Whether styled for full glamour or a casual street look, it is about personal expression—blending old and new, East and West, tradition and trend.

Types and Variations

• There’s more than one way to slay in a qipao. The most iconic style is the 1930s Shanghai style—long, body hugging, with a side slit and high collar. It’s the Hollywood version one would have probably seen in Wong Kar-Wai films or vintage advertisements. Pure elegance.
• But there are plenty of variations! The short qipao (above the knee) is flirty and fun, popular among younger women or for more casual occasions. Sleeveless or cap-sleeved versions are ideal for summer events, while long-sleeved velvet qipaos are great for winter galas.
• There’s also the modern fusion qipao, which might include zippers instead of frog buttons, asymmetrical designs, or even bold prints like leopard or polka dots. Some feature mesh panels, open backs, or even hoodies! Yes, hoodie qipaos are a thing.
• Chinese American designers have been key in driving this diversity. Brands like East Meets Dress and Guo Pei are experimenting with silhouettes and making qipaos more inclusive offering custom fits for all body types and gender expressions.

Famous Artisans and Places

While many qipaos in the US today are mass-produced, there’s a growing appreciation for handcrafted qipaos, especially from famous Chinese American tailors. In cities like San Francisco, New York, and Los Angeles, hidden gems of qipao boutiques still exist, often run by second- or third-generation families who have kept the tradition alive.

One legendary spot is Chinatown’s Grant Avenue, home to seamstresses who have made dresses for generations of Chinese American brides. Artisan studios can also be found in Vancouver and Toronto (Canada), where the Chinese diaspora is strong and fashion-forward.

In China, cities such as Shanghai, Hangzhou, and Guangzhou are renowned for their silk and qipao craftsmanship. Many tailors in these regions have spent decades perfecting their art, taking pride in every curve-hugging stitch. Even for those in the US, it is possible to order directly from these artisans or bring fabric from China to have a qipao tailored locally.

Keep an eye out for designers such as Vivienne Tam and Guo Pei. Though their work leans towards haute couture, they have reimagined the qipao on international runways, inspiring a new generation of Chinese American designers to blend cultural heritage with contemporary high fashion.

How to Identify the Original

Want to know if your qipao is the real deal? Here’s how to play fashion detective.

• To tell if a qipao is authentic, start with the fabric—genuine pieces are typically made from 100 per cent silk, brocade, or high-quality satin. If it feels cheap or scratchy, it likely is.
• Look for traditional Chinese embroidery featuring motifs such as dragons, phoenixes, chrysanthemums, or the double happiness symbol.
• Examine the closures—authentic qipaos use frog buttons, hand-sewn knotted fabric fastenings. If it has a zipper or Velcro, it is probably a modern adaptation or costume version.
• Original qipaos are tailor-fitted, designed to sit snugly without feeling restrictive, unlike mass-produced costume versions that tend to be shapeless or stiff.
• Lastly, be mindful of cultural integrity. A “sexy Chinese costume” sold in Halloween shops is not a qipao—it is cultural appropriation, not appreciation. A true qipao honours tradition, craftsmanship, and storytelling.