ABSTRACT
Gone are the days when quality product was the only criterion to eye a product by a consumer. Earlier were the times when sheer competitiveness in the domestic market was very confined.
But, during some past years with the emergence of globalization, competitive atmosphere and quality consciousness, has reached a new mark. With the steady improvement in technology & application standards, a gradual rise was observed in consumer demands .And to reach up to that mark, manufacturers have to add something to their products to get some added value for their product. A product must be able to encompass something more with it & therefore this has taken today's market to a platform where it seems very difficult for a manufacturer to market his product until he satiates consumer with something new which not only rewards him for his novel concept but also lures him with considerable increase in profit . This urge to come up with something novel to earn increased profit, have larger market share, satiate the fad could probably be termed as value addition to textiles.
VALUE ADDITION is the process where we enhance the salability of the product by adding some incentives to it.
The world market place is continuously changing and so is demand of people changing .Every person desires for some change .i.e. something new & unique. The successful effective implementation of change has to be done to in the market.
We by the medium of this paper have made an earnest attempt to present you a detailed comprehensive analysis done in prevailing finishing industries on value addition done by some of the new value addition process in chemical finishing and mechanical finishing which has busted this Industry with exuberant value added finishes & have forced manufacturer to overlook all those obsolete finishing treatments which were once ruling this Industry.
INTRODUCTION
Past are the days of traditional and conventional fabrics, which are the super fed by fabrics with multi-functional finishes. Indeed, days are now of research and development of a huge spectrum of various advancements in fabric finishes in order to project world class fabric in the world class market at the most competitive rates. A range of new fabric finishes need to be developed and manufactured which will give an innovative edge to the textile sector in various applications. In addition to the specialty we are unique for certain special application and more emphasis should be laid on the derivation of various textile finishes with numerous features and characteristics which should be merge for multifold applications to create All In One Universal Application
Finishing is the final stage in the processing of fabric or garment before it reaches the customer or user. Finishing enhances the attractiveness and serviceability of the textile material. Finishing can broadly be divided in into chemical and mechanical finishing Categories. This paper deals with the advanced developed chemical finishes as well as latest machinery giving mechanical finishes.
To make salable consumer products, the fibre, yarn, fabric or readymade garments have to go through various chemical-processing sequences such as preparatory, dyeing, printing and finishing. Among these the chemical finishing assumes considerable significance because the value addition is realized through functional finishing to impart the desirable properties.
By taking a stroll into any retail apparel store these days one will be confronted with an array of garments designed not only for eye appeal, but with a pronounced performance attribute atttached to it.
The process involves three distinct levels of proprietary technology that allow precise control of the application and placement of polymers within fabrics to meet specific performance crietria.
1.Fibres and filaments of the fabric are encapsulated with an ultra thin polymer
film.
2.A durable barrier film can be precisely place within the fbric, between fibre
bundles.
3.Performance properties can be enhanced using additives that control the surface
chemistry of the polymer film.
This technology has countless applications for performance outerwear and equipment, medical and protective clothing, industrial composites and electronics. The process creates water and wind protective fabrics that are extremely breathable lightweight, soft and compressible for the sports apparel and equipment industry.
Flexible lightweight, reinforcing fabrics with superior adhesion characteristics for the aerospace and automotive industries, and thermally conductive, conformal materials with superior handling characteristic for use in semiconductor and electronics applications.
With fibres encapsulated and the polymer barrier in place between the fibre bundles, there are virtually no spaces where water can hide. This makes the fabrics super water repellent, wind-proof and hyper-breathable. And because there is no coating, the fabrics remain soft and flexible even in cold weather.
LSR (liquid silicone rubber) material is used as an encapsulate for cotton polyester and polyamide fabrics for consumer apparel. This material provides durable water repellence, breathability and good hand.
The smaller the emulsion droplets are, the more they are able to open the yarn, producing the required effect between the individual fibres. For this reason microemulsions produce an inner softness in the textile. In contrast macroemulsions develop a very good surface handle, because the large emulsion droplets are mainly on the yarn surface. Miniemulsions combine both processes, producing an inner softness and a good surface smoothness.
Nextec proprietary encapsulation process also has applications in the performance stretch segment of performance outerwear. Nextec has developed a single-layer stretch fabric that is windproof and offers durable water properties with out compromising flexibility Polymers stretch with the fabric to provide outstanding stretchable performance in warm to freezing conditions.
Traditionally, performance outerwear fabric is treated with laminates and coatings both additional layers, which are placed on only one side of the fabric leaving the other side exposed and unprotected. Water gets trapped in the spaces of exposed fabric and causes the garment to wet-out as tiny cavities create water reservoirs.
With the application of the Nextec technology, encapsulated fibres and barriers between fibre bundles are all inside the fabric itself, which offers exceptional resistance to wind and water . These barriers eliminate water reservoirs to prevent wet-out and long term durable water repellency keeps fabric dry
FRAGRANCE FINISHES:
These are microencapsulated formulations of various fragrances like musk, pineapple, rose, lavender, jasmine, lemon, peppermint, etc. which are applied on the fabric with the help of a binder. They impart fragrance when applied in this fashion.
Much of work is concerned with the microencapsulation of fragrance oils, e.g. perfumes and aromatics. The FOLCOScent brand offers a wide range of technically mature products for scent marketing activities.
Bayer Chemicals, a division of Germany-based Bayer AG, recently introduced Bayscent microencapsulated aromatherapy products to the marketplace. The product features fragrances or Bayscent Neutralizer enclosed in a patented polyurethane microcapsule largely impermeable to diffusion. Fragrances range from fruity to flowery, while the neutralizer is designed to eliminate unpleasant odors.
Bayscent is supplied in a 50-percent aqueous dispersion, which can be freely diluted with water before use in standard textile finishing processes. Italian manufacturers of lingerie, sportswear and upholstery fabrics have already incorporated Bayscent into their textile products.
RECIPE:
To impart the desired fragrance, the fabric is treated with
Fragrant dispersion - 1 5 gpl
Pad Dry Cure at 170 180 C for 30 45 secs.
FLUOROCARBON FINISHES:
The keywords intelligent finish conceal properties like breathing activity with a simultaneously high level of water pressure resistance dirt and water repellency, ultra-violet light protection and body climate management by phase change (e.g. outlast technology) hygiene function and much more.
With the aid of fluorocarbon ploymers, it is possible to finish a textile fabric with an invisible protective shield. This protective shield repels water, snow, dirt etc. and endows the textile substrate with an extended characteristic profile.
Specially modified fluorocarbon polymers differ amoung other things from conventional polymers in that they have perflorinated side chains. The polymer spine itself contains no fluorine, but is a carrier of other gaps, which envelops the fibre . the polymer tangled in the aqueous, solvent-free emulsion extends over the fibre (film formation) . and the fluorine side chains are aligned with the aid of thermal energy in the drying process. At the same time the polymer is bonded securely to the fibre by polymer internal reactive groups or by special boosters.
Textile water pressure resistance can be simultaneously achieved by making the fibre water repellent.
Textile problem areas subjected to a high degree of stress in treaking mountaineering, biling gear or sportswear, such as shoulders knees and elbows, can be equipped with special, more wear resistant fluorocarbon types.
LIQUID SILICON RUBBER FINISH:
Silicon, after oxygen the second most frequent component of our planet, is the starting point for innumerable chemical compounds which have since taken over and revolutionalised almost all technical fields of application, from textiles to solar cells and microprocessor chips
SPECIAL (VALUE ADDED) WASHS.
Enzyme Wash:
Enzymes are proteins found in every living organism. They are natural products that function as biocatalyst for the myriad of chemical reactions occurring in all living organisms.
Enzymes catalyze reactions involving specific reactions. An amylase enzyme used for desizing will have no effect on the size starch molecule. The activity of any enzyme depends primarily on the pH and temperature of the reaction system, but interference of heavy metal ions and oxidative chemicals can also have an effect on the activity. Cellulases, most popular enzymes of the millennium are increasingly used to produce wash-down effects, faded looks, feather touch finishes.
Special Stoneless Stone Wash Effects:
Stoneless stone wash effects are going to catch the market-producing eye catching novel effects. Currently under trail runs, very soon will appear on fashion markets. MUD WASH, CHALK WASH, ION WASH are the commercial names attributed to them.
Ion Wash:
Pretreated woven fabrics are either pigment padded or exhaust dyed are either made into garment or in the same condition, washed on washing machine using 0.5% Acetic Acid or Formic Acid along with 1% soap at 600C for 30 minutes followed by washing, neutralizing washing and treatment with optical brightening agents. Finally the garments or the fabrics are cured at 1500C before going in for further effects. The effects produced are very similar to stone wash and enzyme wash. Various fancy shades and simplicity of application are their advantages
Mud Wash:
Pretreated woven fabrics are padded with pigment dye and binder to 100% expressions and squeezed in rope form to 60-70% expression. They are further treated with Fixer CCL & DAP by padding method followed by drying and curing.. Padding and squeezing expressions and the rope making brings out various effects. A number of fancy shades and simplicity of process are attractions.
Chalk Wash
Pretreated woven/knitted fabrics are dyed with Reactive dyes and are padded with Titanium dioxide/khadi paste, 7-10 gpl binder and Fixcer CCL and DAP to 70% expressions followed by drying and curing. The converted garments are given special finishing effects as discussed in mud wash and ion wash.
DEVELOPMENTS IN VALUE ADDITION
Laser Technology:
It is a computer-controlled process for denim fading. This technique enables patterns to be created such as lines, dots, images, text or even pictures. In one version of this concept, a mask is used to give the desired shape that is to be applied on the fabric. The laser projects through a lens system, which expands the beam. This beam is passed through the shaped mask that comprises an aperture of the desired shape and is then deflected by a mirror to strike the textile substrate. The duration of exposure determines the final effect on the fabric.
The novelty of this system is that:
.It is water free fading of denim.
.It is an ecological and economical process.
.excellent reproducibility and higher productivity.
.Being an automatic system, chances of human error are slim.
Ozone Fading:
Ozone can react with aliphatic & aromatic bonds. For this reason it is possible to use ozone gas for anti-felting finish of wool, without treatment becoming economically significant. Polyester is easily damaged by ozone than polyamide, because polyester's aromatic ring system can be easily oxidised & destroyed by the ozone. This could be termed as ozone fading. The appearance of oxidative bleaching of blue, red & yellow disperse dyes caused by the effect of atmospheric zone which is similar in appearance to gas fading. This effect is most common in acetate, triacetate & polyester dyes. Heat treatment of triacetate & polyester improves fastness to ozone fading
Ozone fading can be prevented by using anti-(oxidation) ozonate softening agent such as diphenylenediamine (also uses as gas fading inhibitor) & p-octylphenol (which has no gas fading inhibitor), which means that using the method detailed here, ozone fading can be prevented. The slight high cost of employing this finish is more than recovered with the improvement of performance characteristics of the denim garment. Furthermore, anti-ozonates could be a good "marketing" tool too.
By using technique, the garment can be bleached. Bleaching of denim garment is done in washing machine with ozone dissolved in water. Denim garments can also be bleached or faded by using ozone gas in closed chamber. The advantages associated with this process are:
1.Color removal is possible without losing strength.
2.This method is very simple and environmentally friendly because after laundering, ozonized water can easily be deozonized by UV radiation.
Water Jet Fading:
Hydrojet treatment has been developed for patterning or enhancing the surface finish, texture, durability, and other characteristics of denim garment. Hydrojet treatment generally involves exposing one or both surfaces of the garment through hydrojet nozzles.
The degree of color washout, clarity of patterns, and softness of the resulting fabric are related to the type of dye in the fabric and the amount and manner of fluid impact energy applied to the fabric. Particularly good results are obtained with blue indigo dyed denim.
1.As this process is not involved with any chemical, it is pollution free.
2.By using water-recycling system, the technique can be used s economical and environmental process.
Durable Press Garment Finishing Without Formaldehyde:
The increasing demand for wrinkle free cotton apparel in the market place has made it urgent to develop formaldehyde free durable press finishes to replace the traditional DMDHEU systems. It is found that the hydroxyl group of citric acid (CA) hinders the esterification of CA with cotton cellulose. Also found that polymers of meleic acid esterify CA in situ on cotton fabric under curing conditions, which transforms CA from a tri-functional crosslinking agent into one with a much higher functionality, thus treating a synergistic effect for crosslinking cotton cellulose. By applying the combination of CA and a polymer of maleic acid to garment finishing of 100% cotton slacks.This new nonformaldehyde durable press finishing system demonstrates superior durable press properties, high fabric strength retention, and good laundering durability. The system provides the texture and garment industry with a cost reactive alternative nonformaldehyde finishing agent for durable press finishing of all-cotton garments.
Spray Techniques:
This technique is most effective for small/medium size garment washing unit who can afford costly technology like sand blasting, etc. This technique is based on spraying/brushing the chemicals or pigments to get different effect on the garments. These techniques also save water, energy and time.
CONCLUSION
In the changing world scenario, value added products exported to various countries form a part of lifestyle products in international market. The impact is due to the changing consumer taste and trends. In view of this it is high time that the textile industry went into the details of changing designs, patterns, product development, and requisite change in production facilities for a variety of materials, production techniques, and related expertise to achieve a leadership position in the fast growing competitiveness with other countries.
The finishes are now catching up due to aesthetics and product value addition.
The Industry to which there are liked is having a direct relationship with season, fashion and its cycle. So, until sufficient emphasis is laid to deliver good amount of input to satisfy all of the above aspects it would nearly be impossible for a manufacturer to produce deserved value for his work. Therefore, it proves that in the present condition if one has to sustain himself to immense competition one has to come up with value addition techniques. And this is also supported by a saying SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
First of all we would like to express profound gratitude to the management of the institute, Administrative officer Shri R.C.Parmar Principal Dr.Ing. V.P.Singh,and Advisor Prof. Dr. H.V.S.Murthy and Head of the department Prof. Dr. Prabhakar Bhat for giving encouragement and guidance to write a paper on VALUE ADDITION TO TEXTILES
REFERENCES
Latest machinery giving mechanical finishes for garments, Dr.G.P.Nair, Colourage, Texindia fair special, 2-4 Nov 2001, pp 69 -79
Encyclopaedia of Textile
Denim Washing and finishing: A review, Purushottam De, MMTI, March 1998, pp 129 - 131
Flocking technology, AATCC symposium on Lamination and Coating 1996. pp 83-92
Past, present and future of jeans and denim fashion garments, Yasini Nensey, Clothes line July 2002, pp 78-80
Encyclopaedia of Textile (Volume I, II, III)
About Author:
The authors are Lecturers in the Department of Textile Technology, Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology and Science, Baroli (Indore-Sanwer Road), Distt: Indore (M.P) Pin-453331,e-mail: tmalik35@yahoo.com , shivendra_parmar@rediffmail.com
To read more articles on Textile, Fashion, Apparel, Technology, Retail and General please visit www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article
Mechanical finishes which are here are those produced by the use of special finishing machines without the use of any common or proprietary chemicals or axillaries. These finishes are totally machine finish this directly contributes to the feel and the look.
The various machine conditions and other parameters producing such finishes include speed, pressure, temperature, vibrations, air currents, steam, frictional forces such as abrasion on fabric surface with emery, brushes or grooved/shaped rough rollers, differential fabric speed and mechanical collisions on fabric with small objects like stones and sand.
By the time our textile industries remain out of its reach. The finishing process must be necessary to make money. In the modern era to make money is given by the equation:
Brain Quality Product = Money.
CHEMICAL (VALUE ADDED) FINISHES:
Easy Care/ Wrinkle Free Finishes:
The primary function of clothing is to prevent the loss of body heat to allow the sweat to pass through it to the outside atmosphere. These properties together with hydrophilic, freedom form static charge generation and pleasant natural feel make it excellent fiber for tropical wear. However one of the major shortcomings of cotton is that, it is prone to creasing during wear and washing. A treatment with cross-linking agent is given to impart wrinkle-free properties to cotton. The process is known as resin finishing. However when the desirable properties are imparted at attractive levels, the strength is reduced to unacceptable level. A favorable balance of wrinkle resistance and mechanical properties s achieved and hence it has become commercially successful.
There are different routes for imparting wrinkle free properties. They are:
Pre-cure and post-cure processes.
Dip and tumbling process.
Typical application recipe is,
Cross-linking agent- 40-120 gpl
Magnesium chloride- 10-25gpl
Citric acid- 0.3 gpl
Softeners combination- 40gpl
Wetting agent- 1gpl
Acetic acid (pH)- 4 - 4.5
Normally cross-linking agents are applied by Pad-Dry-Cure method.
The steps involved are,
Impregnation of the fabric in the prepared resin solution by padding.
Drying the padded fabric in stenter with minimum tension at 70 to 80C.
Curing at 120-150 C for 2 to 5 min. in stenter where cross-linking and polymerization takes place.
It is then washed with 1-2 gpl of wetting agent and 2-4 gpl of soda ash at 50-60 C for 10 min.
It is rinsed in water containing softening agent.
Eco-Friendly Cross Linking Agent:
Majority of the cross-linking agents used today are formaldehyde based including DMDHEU and etherified DMDHEU, which have low formaldehyde level. Formaldehyde based cross-linking agents are cost-effective and efficient but have an impact on human health and environment because of the fear of them being carcinogenic. Zero formaldehyde derivatives of DMDHEU are more expensive and less effective than DMDHU at the same add-on levels. Hence poly-carboxylic acids are used as cross-linking agents. Cotton fabric treated with 1,2,3,4-butane tetra carboxylic acid (BTCA) in presence of sodium hypophosphite shows high level of wrinkle resistance and strength retention as well as good durability to home launderings.
Softening:
Chemical pre-treatments remove natural cotton waxes rendering cotton harsh to handle. This is usually made worst after wrinkle free finishing. To compensate this softeners are usually used. The trend is towards the use of silicone softness that provides a soft luxurious handle, thereby imparting a high quality and added value to the market. Silicone is a general term that refers to class of man-made polymers on the framework of alternate silicone and oxygen (siloxane) bond with organic substituents attached to silicone. Methyl group is the most important of the organic substituents used in commercial silicone.
The most dramatic change in the field of softener has been the introduction of novel poly-siloxane softeners in both micro and macro emulsion forms. Softeners and elastomers based on epoxy and amino functional poly-siloxanes provide an ultra-soft handle to cotton. Currently available silicone softeners can be classified into the following classes.
oNon-reactive.
oReactive.
oOrgano-reactive.
Non-reactive silicones are based on poly-dimethyl siloxanes and the properties imparted are not very durable. Reactive silicones are polydimethyl siloxanes polymers modified with silane hydrogen or silanol functional groups. The durability is better than non-reactive. Organo-functional silicones have an improved orientation of amino-functional silicones leading to extremely soft-handle, which is frequently described as super-soft.
Eco-Friendliness of Silicone Softeners:
Silicones are minor part of the discharge to the waste water treatment plant. PDMS becomes part of the plant wastewater stream in the form of tiny dispersed droplets and attached to suspended solids. If the sludge is incinerated, the silicone gets converted to amorphous silica, water and carbon dioxide. Sludge, if used as a fertilizer it may introduce PDMS to soil, where it is subjected to natural degradation process.
WATER RESISTANT BREATHABLE FINISH:
Present trend is to impart water-repellency without affecting water vapor permeability of fabrics and garments for use in out-door activities, weather-clothing etc. improving the transpiration rate of perspiration through the textile material is particularly important in sports activities where the relative metabolic rate is high. Water resistant breathable finishes are impermeable to water droplets but allow the escape of water-vapor. Such types of garments are designed for sports-wear, track suits, clothing for mountaineering, etc.
The chemicals consist of Quaternary Ammonium Salt with the Pyridine Base and a compound is formed with cellulose in the presence of sodium acetate.
The process sequence employed is Pad-Dry-Cure-Soap-Rinse.
Padding - water repellent chemical
Drying - 60 to 70 C
Curing - 120 C for 2 to 3 min.
Soaping - soap 0.2%, soda 0.1% at 35C for 1 to 2 min.
Stearoxy methyl pyridinium chloride is popularly used for durable water-repellent finish as it reacts chemically with the fiber.
Water Repellent Finish:
Water and stain resistant finishes on garments has gained considerable popularity amongst youngsters
Water resistant finish can be produced using
Metal salt paraffin dispersion
Polysilioxanes
Fluorocarbons
These auxiliaries impart hydrophobic character; and of two above fluoro carbon polymers are extensively is used in garment finishing. They form a film where the fluoro carbon radials are perpendicular to the fibre axis and prevent wetting of the fibre surface. Their high hydrophobic and oleophobic action is explained by the extremely low interfacial tension of fluoro carbon chain towards all chemicals .
Flame Retardant Finish:
Most of the non-durable flame retardant for textiles is inorganic salts or hydrates such as borax, ammonium chloride or aluminum oxide trihydrate. Phosphorus containing flame retardant usually has functional groups that are phosphates or phosphonates. THPC, a tetrahydroxy methyl\ phosphonium salt and a phosphamide Ammonium sulfamate acts as the flame retardant and does not affect the hand of the treated fabric. Boric acid acts as the afterglow repressor. Dicyandiamide acts as the stabilizer and protect the treated material against discoloration and tendering during exposure to high temperature.
BIOLOGICAL FINISHES:
Biopolishing Finishes:
The rapidly growing use of the enzymes on Textiles is a new wave of biotechnology. Enzymes are nothing but the naturally occurring proteins capable of catalyzing specific chemical conditions. The most commonly used enzymes, which are used to give wash down effects, faded looks, feather touch finishes, etc are the cellulases, Acid cellulase, neutral cellulase and hybrid cellulase belong to the cellulase family.
Bio Polishing is a process in which the specific cellulase enzymes acts on the yarn surface of cellulosic fabrics to improve their surface characteristics by conferring following properties:
i.Cooler feel brighter luminosity of colours.
ii.Softer feel more resistance to pilling.
All these fabric characteristics are the result of the hydrolytic action of the soluble enzyme over an insoluble substrate like cellulose.
Biopolished effects produced by cellulases are:
Biopolishing may be applied at any wet processing stage of fabric, however, it is best applied in the fabric finishing after bleaching. The induced surface modifications are lasting because the treatment is not merely a coating but a reaction. The small fibrils protruding from the cotton fiber surface are weakened so they easily break off giving smooth fiber surface. Biopolished fabric continues to look and feel like new even after repeated wear and launderings.
Leather Finish:
Polyurethane softeners provide an elastic handle and produce characteristic rubbery handle, which are durable. Softeners based on special reactive polyurethane are marketed by blocking the reactive isocyanides groups to ensure adequate storage stability. They are used in the conc. of 2.5% o.w.f. Enzyme wash is given prior to the application of polyurethane softener, which are generally applied on fabrics dyed other than indigo.
Rubbery Touch:
Rubber latex provide glossy, crispy handle with characteristic rubbery effect which are durable. This effect is gaining much more importance and is applied as final finishing treatment after enzyme or stone wash or after mechanical abrasion and enzyme treatment
PROTECTIVE FINISHES:
Insect Repellent Finish:
Menthoglycol is a natural insect repellent active ingredient, derived from lemon eucalyptus, which is a natural and renewable source. Testing of this moderately with aggressive cage population of mosquitoes resulted in no bites upto atleast 4 hours. This indicates that the product has unusual repellency.
Antimicrobial Finishes:
Clothing and textile materials are not only the carriers for the microorganisms but also the media for the growth of pathogenic and odour generating bacteria. Some bacteria and fungi even cause skin-diseases. Due to the growing demand for clean and hygienic textile goods, there arises an urgent need for the production of anti-microbial-finished fabric.
Microbes are minute organisms, which can be most dangerous for creating harm to our life style in different ways. So to make the environment healthy, hygienic and fresh it becomes very important to have a control over growth of microbes and for this the garments / fabrics should be treated with some specialty chemicals
Biquanides, phenols and their derivatives, isothiazolones, metals, ammonium compounds and alcohols serve as anti-bacterial agents in finishing recipe. Some other important chemicals are Zeolite (inorganic compound of sodium aluminose ), Triclosan ( a phenolic derivative), Chitin (extracted from shells of crabs and shrimps) and Quarternary ammonium compounds.
RECIPE-P ad the fabric through aqueous dispersion of 1% Silver and Silica-alumina-mica powder for 30 min. at 90C, fabric obtained has 100% bacteria extinction capacity.
Alternatively, the mercerized fabric can be padded with an aqueous solution containing 50g 5% N-[(fluorodichloromethyl) thio] phthalamide, 100g of 30% Ashiguard AG710 and 50 gpl of 80 % polyether-polyurethane.
Deodourising Fragrances Finish:
Deodorizing fragrances operate via a number of mechanisms like inhibiting the enzymes responsible for producing mal odour, lowering the vapour pressure of the mal odour, reducing the perception of the mal odour. Deodourising fragrances prevent the build up of mal odour during the wear or use of the treated textiles and keep the textiles fresh when not in use.
Uv Protective Finish:
The problems of ozone depletion in the upper atmosphere have led to increased problems of exposure of skin to UV radiations. UV light is usually defined as electromagnetic radiations of wavelength between 4-400 nm. A specialty finish for protecting the fabric from UV radiation has been developed that protects human underlying tissues from UV radiation.
Ultra-violet absorber is product having UPF rating of UPF 50 to UPF 500 .
RECIPE:
UV absorber - 3.5 - 5%
Applicable by exhaust as well as padding method. It should be applied during dyeing under a reductive process.
Skin Care Active Ingredients For Fabrics:
Aloe Vera and Vitamins produce the following effects bacteria, Static effect, Anti-inflammatory effect, Moisturizing effect, Regenerates and promotes suppleness of the skin, Protects, etc. and cares for the skin, beneficial effect on the blood circulation.
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES:
Cool Finish (Snocool):
When temperature rises, we tend to sweat. This is a natural reaction of our body to maintain the temperature 97 F. The sweat when evaporates, takes along with it heat equivalent to heat of evaporation of water, thereby maintaining the temperature of the body. Thus snocool finish uses the moisture management route i.e. it will enhance the natural phenomena of sweat evaporation.
This finish absorbs and dissipates sweat evenly throughout and thus gives a cool feeling to the wearer.
Recipe:
Snocool chemical is taken 3 to 10 gpl
Pad the material at 70% expression
Cure at 180C for 30 to 45 sec.
Thermocat Finishes:
This uses a finishing agent for producing heat-retaining effect and when applied to the fabric keeps it warm. It produces heat-retaining effect due to infrared radiation owing to its porosity.
Recipe:
Thermo cat finishing chemicals is taken 30 to 100 gpl
Pad dry at 80C for 2 min
Cure at 130C for 2 min.
Thermochromic & Photochromic Colour:
Other types of intelligent textiles are those whose colour changes as a result of some kind of stimulus, especially through the application of thermo chromic dyes, whose colour change at particular temperature. Two types of thermochromic systems that have been used successfully in textiles may be recognize, the liquid crystal type and the molecular rearrangement type. In both cases, the dyes are entrapped in microcapsule, applied to garment fabric like a pigment in a resin binder. The most important types of crystal for the thermochromic system are the so-called chofesteric types, where adjacent molecules are so arrange that they form helices. Thermochromism results from selective reflection of light by the liquid crystal. The wavelength of the light reflected is governed by the refractive index of the liquid crystal and by the pitch of helical arrangement of its molecules. Since the length of the pitch varies with the temperature, the wavelength of the reflected light is also altered and colour changes result.
MECHANICAL FINISH
Machine which concentrates entirely upon mechanical aspects of, processing a fabric which involves control of parameters like vibrations, frictional forces such as abrasion on fabric surfaces with emery, brushes, grooved shaped rough rolls, differential fabric speeds etc can be classified under this category. This finishes include the following:
Raising:
Soft and Supple handle is one of those efficient tools which had done wonders in elaborating the definitions of value added requirements for fabric. Therefore, raising involves lifting up of fibres to a considerable height so that there may be no disturbance in fabric construction. Machine required for this purpose involves fabric movement over a central drum mounted with series of pile and counter pile rollers having their movement in such a fashion that each fibres in lifted in a controlled manner.
This finishing work is used to create different feel & a velvety material surface on fabrics & knitwear by loosening a large number of individual fibres from the fabric & subsequent raising & napping in order to crest a dense raised fabric/surface.
Peach Finish:
This type of mechanical finish delivers soft and elegant feel to the fabric, which surges its values to a comprehensive figure. The machine which is used to carry out peach finish comprises of number of emery rollers placed in specific arrangements such that while a fabric is passed through them it undergoes slightly lifting up of surface fibres and there by results into soft and supple finish to the fabric.
Sueding:
This is performed on the surface of cloth or knitted fabric. During emerizing the fabric is covered by a thin pile that does not damage the machine or the structure of the fabric. The effect is dependent on the structure of the fabric, yarn & the surface. The shorter & thinner the fibre in the yarn, the lighter & easier it is to obtain the pile.
Two different types of machinery are usually available for the mechanical variation of the surfaces, a mutual roller machine for sanding the surface. In the first case fabric is tensioned over four to seven rollers with emery paper rollers that turn against or with the direction of the fabric. In this way, adjustable pressure creates friction between the fabric & the emery surface. With emerizing any protruding fibre splits and results in velvety but nonetheless fibre pile.
Lisa:
This finish amalgamates many finishing processes, in this type of finishing method substrate is damped and then beated with the help of mechanical spokes in such a fashion that the substrate loosens up, then it is subjected toward a nylon bristle roller rotating at an high speed this will make the surface fabric hairy and then undergoes the process of peaching as described above. This finishing method can be used as a highly effective tool to market final product with an enhanced value.
Foiling:
This is a pure mechanical finish which includes transferring of foil engraved on to a roller when fabric is passed between two adjacent rollers nipping action involves transferring of foil from one roller on to the other roller which is surfaced with fabric by deliberate action of pressing easy transferring of foil takes place on the fabric.
THERMO-MECHANICAL FINISH
This method of giving finishing to the fabric employs application of heat with regular mechanical forces to educe novel finishes. This finishes include the following:
Calendering
Calendering belongs to thermo-mechanical type of finish. Though this one of the old types of finishing method yet it holds sheer importance in finishing department. Here fabric is passed in an open width form over a series of consecutively roller placed vertically in such a manner that considerable amount of tension is provided to the fabric. Rollers over which fabric is placed is incorporated with steam which results in improving lustre of fabric after calendaring
Embossing
This type of finishing is only demanded for designer wear. It could be designed with the help of two rollers out of which one roller being male having non designed part carved & other being female made up of either cotton or paper. During the course of passing fabric pressure, which is applied by the male roller over female leads in engraving of the design. Application of design becomes stronger with sufficient amount of heat, which results in exquisite results on the fabric & contributes in enhancing value of the fabric.
ADVANCED MECHANICAL FINISHES:
Phantim:
This is supposed to be one of the novel effects which are present in the market to have value addition on to the fabric. In real terms it is practised only on to the denim this is because one of the undyed and consequently results in considerable fading of colour due to extensive abrasion. Machine which is used for this purpose involves diamond powder coated roller which results in the required degree of abrasion sufficient enough to fade the colour. Predetermined or desired design could be procured with the help of pneumatically operated needle shaped nodes when in contact with the diamond powder coated roller results in fading of that portion. And movement of nodes as well as rotation of the diamond powder coated roller is controlled with the help of computer which creates the design finish meticulously with great precision & accuracy.
Peach Skin Effect:
Peach skin effect is produced in rope form using air flows and air tumblers. Alternatives are produced in open width finishing with special embry rollers i.e. embry paper coated with diamond dust.
MICRO ENCAPSULATION FINISHES:
Microcapsule- In simple terms, a miniature container that protects its contents from evaporation, oxidation and contamination until its release is triggered by gentle rubbing or shaking. During encapsulation, tiny droplets of benefit-laden products such as moisturizers, fragrances, deodorizers, vitamins, or repellents are wrapped with a protective coating to form a capsule.
The microencapsulation of liquid, non-water soluble substances is one of our areas of high-tech specialism. This involves "packaging" the substances in microscopically small capsules to seal them in hermetically, thereby preserving them.
Depending on the application, we can provide capsule diameters from 1. The contents can be released in a controlled way by mechanical action, such as rubbing, pressing, cutting or scratching.
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