ABSTRACT

Innovations resulting from technological advancements represent the best strategy for success in the increasingly competitive textile industry. The fabric production rate is very tremendous and the market has limited scope which can be multiplied by value added finishing to textiles like fragrance finish which counts more value in the current scenario of market. The maintenance and improvement of current properties and the creation of new material properties are the most important reasons for the fictionalization of textiles. Recently, fragrances have become available that can be readily added on the textiles and after finishing and fixation; they emit a pleasant fragrance which is sometimes used as a medicine renowned with the term of Aroma-chology.

Here in this paper we have discussed about the technological aspects for the incorporation of different scents into fabrics, leading to the production of scented fabrics with and without corresponding pigments to modify the response, and the psychology of acceptance of synthetic scents in textile goods. The approach is to assess marketing possibilities of incorporating fragrance into textile material which are commonly used for the apparel purposes as per consumer willingness.

Keywords: ▪ Fragrance Finish ▪ Aromachology ▪ Pigments ▪ Synthetic scents

INTRODUCTION

Gone are the days when quality product was the only criterion to eye a product by a consumer. Earlier were the times when sheer competitiveness in the domestic market was very confined. But, during some past years with the emergence of globalization, competitive atmosphere and quality consciousness, has reached a new mark. With the steady improvement in technology & application standards, a gradual rise was observed in consumer demands and to reach up to that mark, manufacturers have to add something to their products to get market value for their products. A product must be able to encompass something more with it & therefore this has taken todays market to a platform where it seems very difficult for a manufacturer to market his product until he satisfy the consumer with something new which not only rewards him for his novel concept but also lures him with considerable increase in profit . The role of the textile finisher has become increasingly demanding, and now requires a careful balance between the compatibility of different finishing products and treatments and the application processes used to provide textiles with desirable properties.

Growing trends and escalating standards leave no stone unturned to boast the current scenario of textile industry. Performance with beauty describes the potential of textile finishing. Fragrance finishing of textiles is one such immaculate magnanimous entry into any textile culture.

Fragrance finishing of textiles is the process where we enhance the value of the product by adding some incentives to it. The world market place is continuously changing and so is demand of people changing .Every person desires for some change .i.e. something new & unique. The successful effective implementation of change has to be done to in the market. We by the medium of this paper have made an earnest attempt to present you a detailed comprehensive analysis done by fragrance finishing and which has busted this industry with exuberant value added finish with the incorporation of different scents into fabrics, leading to the production of scented fabrics and the psychology of acceptance of synthetic scents in textile goods.

TECHNOLOGY FOR FRAGRANCE FINISHING (MICROENCAPSULATION)

Microencapsulation is a natural phenomenon and the examples of ideal microcapsules are found in the nature i.e., spores, seeds, eggs and pollen etc only a few to mention. Due to numerous applications of microencapsulation and as a result there are a number of processes developed to encapsulate a galaxy of materials to suit the individual applicability. In the broadest sense, microencapsulation provides a means of packaging, separating and storing solid and liquid materials in a microscopic scale for a later release on your own desire under controlled conditions.

The fragrance compound and the essential oil are volatile substances. The most difficult task in preparing the fragrance emitting textile is how to prolong its lifetime of Odour. Micro-encapsulation is an effective technique to solve this. Microcapsules are minute containers that are normally spherical if they enclose a liquid or gas, and roughly of the shape of the enclosed particle if they contain a solid. It can be considered as a special form of packaging, in that particulate matter can be individually coated for protection against environment and release the volatile substance from the enclosed capsule as required. This property has enabled microcapsules to serve many useful functions and find applications in different fields of technology. For example, the storage life of a volatile compound can be increased markedly by microencapsuling.

The key to aromatic textile is how to make microcapsules of fragrance com-pounds and essential oils without omitting any ingredient in order to ensure its effects. In addition, using a low-temperature polymer binder to attach a perfumed microcapsule to the surface of the textile is also an important part of preparing an aromatic textile. At the same time, durability in laundering and a soft handle should be carefully considered

Why Use Microencapsulation Technology

1.Protection of the enclosed material and improved storage life.
2.Conversion of a liquid component to a dry solid system.
3.Ensuring separation of incompatible components.
4.Odour masking, dust control and pH control
5.Controlled diffusion of active components through the shell as for example in delayed drug release.
6.Change of weight or volume.

Fragrances and Human Emotions

Representative Odor Categories

Citrus Lemon (Citral, Citronellal)
Orange (Mandarin Oil, Decyl acetate)
Floral Carnation (Phenethyl salicylate)
Gardenia (Nonyl acetate)
Geranium(Citronellol)
Lilac (Anisyl acetate)
Lily (hydroxycitronellal)
Rose (Rose absolute)
Violet (Costus Oil, Methyl-2-nonenoate)
Fruity Apple (Benzyl acetate)
Apricot (Allyl butyrate)
Banana (Amyl acetate)
Grape (Isobutyl isobutyrate)
Peach (Allyl butyrate)
Strawberry (Benzyl benzoate)
Herbaceous Clove (Eugenyl acetate)
Minty (l-carveol, l-Carvone, l-Menthol)
Sweet Anise (Ethyl acetate, Methyl sorbate)
Cinnamon (Cinnamaldehyde)
Honey(Allyl phenoxyacetate)
Sweet (Acetanisole)
Vanilla (Anisyl acetate)

PREPARATION OF RECIPE

The fragrance with β -cyclodextrin inclusions were formed by mixture solution containing alcohol and distilled water (1:3). The solution was emulsified with a high-speed mixer at a speed of about 10,000 rpm for 5 minutes. The emulsified system was transferred into a flask. The fragrance alcohol solution was added into the emulsified solutions over30 minutes, and stirred at a temperature of 40oC for 2 hours.

In exhaust method, firstly beta cyclodextrin using acrylic acid, sodium hypophosphite and potassium persuplhate was applied by exhausting and the fragrance was sprayed by means of spray gun.

Application

1.Padding Method
oThe fabric is padded with above recipe
oFragrance: 10% of weight of fabric.
oPadding pressure 2kg/cm2
oDry and cure at 70oC-120�C (1-5 min.)
2.Exhausting
oPrepare the recipe with water up to desired concentration
oExhaust at 40C for 20 - 30 min.
oHydro extract water
oUse Fragrance : 5-10% on weight of fabric

WHY CYCLODEXTRIN?

Although there are many effective approaches to micro-encapsulation for decreasing fragrance-release, cyclodextrins are the best regarding safety to the human body because

1.B-cyclodextrin has no skin irritation, no skin sensibilisation and no mutagenic effect.
2.Cyclodextrins are non-reducing cyclically linked oligosaccharides produced by certain micro-organisms of cultivated starch, which are capable of forming inclusion compounds with molecules that fit into their cone-shaped hydrophobic cavity.
3.As a result of the inclusion, the physico-chemical properties of the compounds are changed, e.g. the vapour pressure of volatile substance is reduced, and stabilities against light or air are enhanced.
4.On the other hand, the harmful and unpleasant Odour in the surrounding may be eliminated.
5.Furthermore, cyclodextrins clamped on cellulose do not affect the celluloses properties, and cyclodextrins keep their ability to form inclusion complexes with other suitable molecules.
1.Thus, cyclodextrins are the first choice in preparing aromatherapy textiles. The detailed analysis described above allowed us to select the following procedure.

MECHANISIM OF RELEASING

The releasing of the content from the capsules is one of the interesting aspects of the wall materials. It is dependent directly on the type of wall material used, the no of layer present around the core and the concentration of the wall material. However there are three basic mechanisms through which capsule release the content to outside. These are

Diffusion
Enzymatic digestion
Surface leaching through chemicals

Diffusion:

It is a purely physical process, which takes place when the capsule content (active drug) is sufficiently soluble in water and body fluids, and the wall material is insoluble but permeable. This process could also be called dialytic. Diffusible drugs, the rate and pattern can be adjusted to accommodate specific requirements by modifying the composition and thickness of the wall material.

Enzymatic digestion:

It is a biochemical process, whereby the wall material is attacked and disintegrated with specific enzymes to release the content from the capsule.

Surface leaching through chemicals:

It is purely chemical process which is chosen according to wall material to dissolve the wall material through chemical reaction and release the core material to the outside for the application.

Applications

Cosmeto-textiles

Microencapsulated skin moisturizers, vitamins and provitamins are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles, designed for wear in contact with skin. These are claimed to promote a younger look, counteracting the effects of skin ageing, e.g. as a result of exposure to UV-radiation. There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling.

Aromatherapy Textiles

The uses of aromatherapy textile are diverse. Interior textiles such as sheets, quilt-covers, curtains, carpets and bed-gowns are suitable for the attachment of lavender, camomile, citrus or cinnamon microcapsules, which are good for hypnogenesis and eliminating fatigue. Patients suffering high blood pressure feel sedation when they use a pillow made of fabric treated with lavender, basil, and lemon or fennel microcapsules. The tired office clerk wearing clothing with a scent of lemon rose, or jasmine oil may find his work efficiency improved. Meanwhile, it is convenient for dermatitis sufferers to be cured with the aid of underwear containing killing gem fabric. Perfumed toys make it easier for children to get closer to nature. Generally speaking, varied per-fume fabrics create good opportunities for customers to make the cocooning environment they prefer to live in

Home Textiles

In other areas, household textiles such as curtains, sofas, cushions, sheets, as well as apparel items such as gloves, socks and ties may also be treated with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes. The carpets can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in home textiles as well as automotive textiles.

Sport Wears

As the second skin of the human body, all types of textile are excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds, and are essential to people in sport according to their preference for them. The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange, lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer period.

Apparel

The scents of lavender, rose, citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into fabrics, which proved a good way to meet important psychological and emotional needs, as well as those of a purely physical and sensorial nature. Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances can be used in apparels, leisure wear, daily wears, party wears etc.

CONCLUSION

The creation of value added fabrics not only represents an academic advance in the textile industry, but will also bring convenience to our lives. The fragrance finished textiles are very new in the current market and they have gained the much more importance in day to day life. The above stated applications give us further encouragement to explore fragrant fabrics by microencapsulation. It avoids technological difficulties and enables the manufacture of fragrance finished products to be done significantly, less ex-pensively. The growth of the athletic apparel product category and the extension of intimate apparel into every-day body wear offer new opportunities for applying this technology to a fabric in the finishing stage.

Nonetheless, to make the dream of this kind of fragrant textile come true, close cooperation is needed between laboratory researchers, academicians and partners from industry. Therefore, it proves that in the present condition if one has to sustain himself to immense competition one has to come up with new techniques. And this is also supported by a saying, SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST
REFERENCES

1.Aromachology and its Application in the Textile Field -C. X. Wang, Sh. L. Chen , Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe January / December 2005, Vol. 13, No. 6 (54).

2.Capture and Controlled Release of Fragrances by CD Finished Textiles - B. MARTEL, Journal of Inclusion Phenomena and Macrocyclic Chemistry 44: 439442, 2002.

3.Odor Measurement in Textile Industries Krzysz Gniotek , Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe January / March 2003 Vol. 11 No.1 (40).

4.Scent-Infused Textiles to Enhance Consumer Experiences John Pierce, leader; Fernando Tovia; Natalie Weathers (Phila U) National Textile Center Research Briefs Fabrication Competency: June 2006 .

5. National Textile Center Research Briefs Fabrication Competency: June 2006

6. A Quantitative Study of Factors That Influence the Substantivity of Fragrance Chemicals on Laundered and Dried Fabrics Sina D. Escher a, and Esther Oliveros b.

7.Modification of a Cellulosic Fabric with-Cyclodextrin for Textile Finishing Applications Pierandrea Lo Nostro, Laura Fratoni and Piero Baglioni, Journal of Inclusion Phenomena and Macrocyclic Chemistry 44: 423427, 2002.

8.Mechanical and physico-chemical characterization of cyclodextrin finished fabrics - J Incl Phenom Macrocycl Chem (2007) 57:4752

9.Websites:

A.www.world-texile.net
B.www.maxxperforn.Com
C.www.particlescience.Com

About Author:


Authors are students of Department of Textile Technology, Shri Guru Gobind Singhji Institute of Engineering & Technology, Nanded-431606. Maharashtra, India.


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