Pilling resistance of blended polyester / wool fabrics

Abstract:

Pilling is a potentially undesirable property affects touch,handle and appearance of fabrics. Fiber properties, yarn characteristics,fabric construction, dyeing and finishing parameters are factors that affectthe pilling tendency.

In this paper the pilling resistance of blended fabrics madefrom wool fibers of three different microns were blended with polyester fibersof 3 denier, atthree blended ratios to produce ply yarns of three counts to be used in warpsand wefts to produce three weave structures. The effects of heat setting andsingeing speed were studied. 1t was found that the pilling tendency increaseswith increasing the polyester content. Fine yarns have less pills than thecoarse ones. Plain-woven fabrics have less pills than both twill and satinfabrics. The pilling resistance increases with increasing the heat set, anddecreases with increasing the singeing speed.

Introduction:

Relationships between the components of the fabrics (e.g.,fibers), their construction (yarn structure, weave and design features), theirmanufacturing parameters (spinning and weaving conditions, dyeing method andfinishing processes) and their properties and performance must bequantitatively established. This is why many theoretical and experimental ininvestigations. ^{(3, 6, 7, 9)} over many decades have focused on theeffects of fiber properties, fabric construction and manufacturing parameterson fabric properties and performance. Pilling is still a potentiallyundesirable property that affects the hand and appearance of polyester woolfabrics.

The pill is a ball of tangled fibers that is held to thefabric surface by several anchor fibers. ^{(1, 2)}This problem becamemore severe in the 1980_s because of the conversion to higherstrength and lower denier polyester in order to utilize high speed spinningequipment. Generally pills are made of fibers entanglements and sometimescontain a polluting nucleus. They are produced by rubbing action against thesame fabric or different surface.⁽⁵⁾ For pilling to occur, it isnecessary to have fabric using yarn spun from staple fibers and weave structureloose enough to permit fiber migration to the surface. Migration of fiber fromyarn to fabrics surface depends upon the fiber properties, the way they arespun, fabric weave structure and its sett, as well as finishing processes.

Sule and Gurndatt⁽¹⁵⁾ have determined themechanism of pilling which goes through the following four stages:

1. Fuzz formation on fabric surface.
2. Entanglement of fibers in the fuzz with each other.
3. Densification of these entanglements into small balls called pill.
4. Shedding away of pills.

Fuzz formation as a result of constant gentle abrasion. In agarment, it is usually observed near the abrasion area such as near the pocket,collar. ... etc.

Gintis and Mead (4) have determined the fuzz formationtendency of different fibers which is given in table (1) It will be seen thatfibers have the lowest tenacity like wool and acetate have the lowest tendencyto form fuzz.

Table (1)

Fuzz formation tendency of different fibers

However, viscose with low tenacity has a higher tendency to fuzz compared to Dacron that is 50% stronger. Thus, why cannot explain the magnitude of fuzz formation simply with reference to the tenacity of fibers ⁽¹⁵⁾. There are other factors involved.

Also, they reported the low inter-fiber friction as well as fiber stiffness in terms of fiber modulus facilitates migration of fibers out of fabric surface. Wool- has the lowest inter- fiber friction and moderate stiffness; its low tenacity causes the fuzz formation. As results of surface friction, several fibers are fractured and are able to easily migrate out of the fabric and get entangled in the pill.

Research work carried out by Richards ⁽¹¹⁾, Sharma ⁽¹³⁾ clearly indicate that as yarn becomes finer, pilling increased when all other yarn and fabric parameters were kept constant. There is complete agreement that increasing the twist factor of yarn decreases the pilling tendency as fibers find it difficult to easily migrate out. Several workers have confirmed that the higher yarns twist whether in singles or in double yarns the lesser is the pilling. ^{(8, 12, 14)}

Work carried out by kullman and Rupenicker ⁽¹²⁾ indicate that fabric woven from worsted spun yarns pill less than those from cotton spun yarns. Viscose gives more pilling than wool does when blended with polyester.

Sivakumar and Pillay ⁽¹⁵⁾ investigated the structure of pills and nature of fibers that go into pill in different types of fabrics were examined microscopically and the influence of fiber and yarn parameters was analyzed.

Kulkarni ⁽¹⁰⁾ suggested the use of higher cover factors for weaves other than plain weave structure to decrease the pilling tendency. He determined that warp and weft English cover factors from 12 to 14 are adequate for plain structure, and for twill and dobby structures he suggested cover factors from 15 to 18.

Wemyss ⁽¹⁶⁾ observed that finishing processes playa very important role than various factors responsible for pilling resistance. Poor finishing leads to pilling even in a well design fabrics. The main role of finishing is to stabilize the fibers inside the yarn and to remove the surface nap. This is done by heat setting, singeing and brushing I cropping.

2- Experimental work:

Polyester and wool are spun into yarn in three different blend ratio and yarn count on worsted spinning system with constant twist factor for single yarn (85) as well as for ply yarn (120), and woven into fabric using all the yarn samples as a warp and weft in three weave structure. The effect of heat set treatment at two different temperatures of 160 and 180 CO 5 Co, and singeing on both sides of fabrics at two speed level 40 and 60 mlmin are described. Experimental parameter and results obtained are given in table (2).

The fabric samples were exposed to standard atmosphere for 24 hours at least with relative humidity of 65 % 2 % and temperature 20 Co 2 Co. Pilling test of fabric samples was carried out on lCI pill box tester. The number of pills generated were counted in each samples and expressed as number of pills per square inch.

3- Results and discussion:

The influence of blend ratio, yarn count, weave structure, heat set before and after singeing process, and their interaction on the pilling tendency were studied by using a two-way ANOV A. Tables (3) and (4) give the F- test value and significance level of the effect of all factors studied on pilling resistance.

F-test = Calculated F value, the significant influences are marked by bold

(Significance level: P< 0.05)

3-1 Pilling property:

3-1-1 Blend composition and yarn count:

From table (2) it is observed that pilling tendency of the fabric samples increase with decrease in the wool content of the blend in the all samples. This may be due to the fact that greater number of polyester fibers migrated on the surface of yarn with increase in the polyester content of the blend and hence the pilling increased, and converse is true for wool fibers used in the blend. Wool fibers fuzz more readily than polyester fibers but this fuzz wears off easily.

F-test = Calculated F value, the significant influences are marked by bold

(Significance level: P< 0.05)

It is also evident from table (3) that yarn cont has significant affected on oiling tendency of the fabric samples, the yarn count becomes finer pilling decreasing, which may be due to the fact that fine yarns are used to weave fabrics, the number of intersections is greater than when coarse yarn is used. In the other hand coarse yarn is less compact and results in more slippage of fibers as compared to fine yarn, this result is not agreement with the findings of Richards and Sharma.

3-1-2 Weave Structure and fabric set: -

It is seen from results shown in table (2) that satin woven fabrics have lower pilling resistance as compared to twill and plain woven fabrics. In other words, the longer the float length the higher is the pilling propensity. In case of plain woven fabrics, there is higher number of intersections between the warp and weft yarns which offers an increase to slippage of fibers and difficult to easily fuzz formation on fabric samples surface.

It is also seen from table (2) that weave structures and fabric specifications have great influence on the fabric cover factors. In case the fabric cover increases, this yields to decrease the pill tendency of fabric samples due to increase number of cross- over points (intersections between the warp and weft yarns).

It is also observed from tables 3 and 4 that weave structures and fabric sets have significant influence on pilling tendency of fabric samples.

3-1-3 Heat set and singeing:

It is observed from table (3) that heat temperature set has significantly affected on pilling tendency of fabric samples, with increasing heat temperature that may be due to the heat temperature set the fiber within the fabric surface and improves proportional pilling resistance. Polyester wool fabrics can be heat set at temperature 180 C^o 5 C^o.

Table (4) represent that fabric pilling resistance significantly increase with singeing treatment at 40 m/min speed. This may be due to the singeing is removing the nap on fabric samples surface.

Although singeing is very effective in removing the surface nap but it imparts some harshness to the fabric surface. For that after singeing, softener can be added during washing to improve fabric surface.

Conclusion:

The pilling is formation of ugly looking small balls of fibers on fabric surface. Pilling does not depend only on single factor but it is the result of several factors such as fiber properties, yarn & fabric structure and finishing processes. In case of polyester wool blended fabrics, pilling tendency of the fubric increase with increase of the polyester content. Finer yarns have lower pilling than coarser. The number of pills is less for plain-woven fabrics compared to twill and satin woven fabrics due to the higher intersections. Pilling resistance significantly increase with increasing heat set temperature with all studied parameters.

Singeing plays a critical role than various studied factors for pilling resistance which significantly increase with decreasing singeing speed.

Acknowledgement:

The author is thankful to Mr. W. Abd- Eldaim the chairman of DIAMOND TEXTILE com and Engineer IsLam Elgwaily the supervisor of testing Laboratory. The author is also grateful to Prof. Dr. Sami Mansur and Dr. M. Ezzat for their advices and helpful in the present work.

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