Silk industry in India is an agro based industry. In theprocess of production of cocoon to fabrics various types of wastes are producedat different stages from Cocoon to fabric / garment. The important categoriesof the silk waste are:
- Pierced Cocoons from Grainages in which moth has emerged.
- Unreelable Cocoons which are cut, soiled, irregular shapes, Thin transparent cocoons
- Filature waste
- Throwsters waste.
- Waste produced during weaving, Knitting, cutting waste-Apparel production
Normally above mentioned wastes are the Raw material for theSpun Silk yarn both in Mulberry and Non-Mulberry silks. One of the major byproductsin Sericulture is Pierced Cocoons and Defective cocoons which are not suitablefor the production of continuous filament silk. Pierced cocoons give topquality silk. Both Mulberry and Non-Mulberry Unreelable cocoons can be convertedas Hand made Nonwoven suitable for QUILTS, Wadding garments.
First step in QUILT is sorting, softening of Unreelablecocoons without pupae through degumming i.e. removal of Sericin-the gum Excesswater is squeezed from the degummed cocoons and the cocoons in wet conditionare used for making web. Individual wet cocoon is slightly opened by hand and thenstretched / pulled from the top along the Bell shaped Web Maker till the baseto form a bell shaped thin layer of web. The same process is continued placing3to 4 layers one above the other as per the required thickness. The web is thenremoved and dried under shade.
Bellshaped dried webs are placed on table and stretched gently and uniformly on allsides to form a square web / Felt / sheet form. Number of such webs are placedone above the other as per the thickness, length, width of QUILT required (say7 X 7 x 6) `The Web in spread sheet should be stitched at different placeswrapped with the bandage / mosquito type cloth. Finally to add value to thequilt, Dupion silk or printed silk or Embroidered Silk fabric may be used as cover.The stitching method is similar to that followed in preparation of cottonquilts / beds.
Mulberry, ERI, Tassar Unreelable cocoons are suitable forthe production of QUILT which will be bulky, light weight and warmer thancotton. Organisations like KVIC, HHEPC, NGOs which are mainly concerned withthe promotion of hand made products may implement the technology of diversifiedutility of Unreelable cocoons for the production of value added productswithout involving much additional expenditure / infrastructure. In India, Self-Help Groups are promoted by N.G.Os, banks and co-operatives can take up theproject. The SHGs have made a lasting impact on the lives of the womenparticularly in the rural areas. Their quality of life has improved a lot.
About the Author:
The author is an Expert in Post cocoon Technology, Bangalore, India.
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