To the task of expansion of Knowledge Base CAD: Designer for clothes production

Modern CAD offers a wide set of tools for automation of the clothes design process especially in the field of modeling. Unfortunately despite all perfections CAD is in less assistance to a constructor (designer) from the point of view of the modeling process, because of majority of designs' activities which are done outside of automation.

These systems do not provide the cardinal increase in quality of design work as they are developed for only specialists of high qualification according to their knowledge, experience, awareness and require a lot of time to develop a new fashion. In the existing systems of automated project design a designer is still a main unit of the process, a generator of logic conclusions and decisions making. On the primary phases of model design the difficulties are in foreseeing of all functional interrelations between parameters of the system, and evaluation of decision reasonability.

The sufficient disadvantage of parametrical CADs within adjusted changes of parameters is a lack of diapason of possible (recommended) values, by the other words a designer must visually evaluate changed contours and make decision about the acceptability of the designed fashion. Data ware of CAD-system should have KB (Knowledge Base) for bubble help in the process of model design. This is necessary for the fact that the decision of a designer will not so much depend on his/her experience and qualification.

The solution in this situation is adaptation of systems with elements of artificial intellect. However, the artificial intellect is a new way of computer technologies development in which the new approaches are in demand for implementation of it in the sphere of clothes design at present time. Practical implementation of the artificial intellect in enterprises and in economics is based on the Expert Systems (ES).

ES are capable in difficult situations (e.g. lack of time, information or experience) to provide a qualified consultancy (advice, assistance) which will be helpful for a specialist to make well-grounded decision1. The usage of ES in CAD-system of clothes design will allow improving the quality and save time for decisions making, it also will promote increase of work effectiveness and qualification of specialists. One of the shortcomings of KB in CAD-system designer is lack of information which is necessary for determination of garment's shoulder parts parameters.

Previously in the group of source data it was suggested to use size indicator "angle of shoulder slope incline", which characterizes the shape of a figure.

We worked out the method of this size indicator implementation. For this the models of dummy upper supporting areas of woman, man and children figures and involutes of their surfaces were elaborated.

The angle of shoulder slope incline is determined as a measurement of a figure (Yм fig 1, a), and as a parameter of according construction of model surface's involutes (Ycп, Yп fig.1, b). The derived data and their comparison are given in Table 1.



1 T.A. Gavrilova, V.F. Horoshevskyi. The knowledge bases of intellectual systems: The textbook for technical higher education institutions. Sankt- Petersburg, 2001.

Analysis of derived data showed that the sum of shoulder incline angles in the involute is equal to doubled value of figure measurement but the values of shoulder cuts angles of back and front details are different. Thus, for the construction for female figure the angle of shoulder incline cut is comparative to the size indicator Yм but it has correction Ycп, which absolute value is decreased with the increase of the figure size.

The derived recommendations for construction of angles for shoulder incline cuts allow to provide more precise correspondence of clothes to a figure.

The results of the research were experimented by creating a model of top clothes for female dummies of a size 164-104-112. There was no need for correction of the model because the shape of the shoulder zone repeated the shape of the figure and direction of shoulder seam corresponded to standard requirements.

The application of research results by developed method of parameters determination for shoulder zone will serve to the improve qualification of specialists as it allows to make decisions with more guarantee of construction quality.

The authors are associated with The Moscow State University of Design and Technology