Performance apparel is one of the fastest growing segmentsin the global clothing arena (Fibre2fashion, November2009). Its growth is being fuelled by new fibre and fabric developmentsand enhanced process technologies as demand from professions-such as themilitary and emergency services-for functional fabrics increases. As a result,many raw material and roll goods manufacturers are using their knowledge andexperience to expand into this market. One example is Super Absorbent Fibre (SAF)manufacturer Technical Absorbents Limited (TAL).
In this article, TALs Business Development Manager-Mr DaveHill-talks about the innovative SAF technology, the potential ofAsian technical textiles, expansion into the performance apparel market and theexciting potential of the growing functional outdoor and sportswear sectors.
The core business of TAL is the manufacture ofSAF at its impressive UK production site. The innovative company isowned by BlueStar Fibres Ltd, which is a wholly-owned subsidiary of China NationalBlueStar (Group) Co., Ltd-which in-turn is wholly-owned by ChemChina-one of Chinas fastest growing chemical groups.
SAF is manufactured by TAL usingstate-of-the-art production methods and control protocols. SAF iswhite, odourless and has the appearance and improved handling characteristicsof a textile fibre, while offering the possibility of being used to produce awide range of fabrics and yarns. It can also be produced in a range ofabsorbency grades, staple lengths and dtex to suit different requirements.
As a result, TAL currently provides its customerbase with a wide range of extremely high performance SAF grades,which are suitable for a variety of applications in a number of new andestablished markets agro-and geo-textiles, cable yarns and tapes, food and freeze packaging;geo-synthetics, medical, hygiene, dental, and of course performance apparel.
SAF has been developed by TechnicalAbsorbents Ltd to provide extremely high rates of saline and water uptake. As afibrous super absorbent, it can be converted into a multitude of fabric and yarn structures by a diversenumber of web-forming and yarn spinning techniques. It allowsfor ease of handling and gives rise to exceptionally substantive and evendistribution profiles within final fabric and yarn construction.
Since inception in 1993, TAL has built strongpartner relationships with some of the worlds leading specialist fibreconverters, roll-goods producers and end product manufacturers. As a result ofthis, TAL toll manufactures nonwovens, yarns, woven fabrics and finishedconsumer goods-all containing SAF. This has provided TAL withexcellent connections throughout the supply chain and allows it to work moreclosely with the markets and respond to their changing requirements.
The Asian Market
Today, one of the largest application areasfor SAF is within the food packaging market, particularly in Europeand the USA. However, the importance of the technical textiles sector as agrowing market for SAF throughout the world is increasingdramatically.
Asia-especially China and India-offers TALexciting technical textiles market development opportunities, explains MrHill. India has a high skill-set in terms of scientific and technical manpowerand huge levels of expertise within the textile market. This means that theunderstanding of what SAF technology can offer and the ease of itsapplication for new product development is made that much easier.
The Indian market is showing significant levelsof interest in the potential of SAF to offer a wide range ofabsorbency benefits to technical textiles.
The above is also made possible in India by the support of TALs agent Business Co-ordination House (BCH). The experiencedteam has been the main catalyst for the development of SAF in thecountry so far. BCH has not only introduced the technology to the countrystechnical textiles industry but also supported TAL at major industryexhibitions. This closer link with the market has broken down a lot of barriersthat otherwise might have been encountered.
AtTechTextil India 2009, it was clear that the knowledge of SAF andits possibilities has rapidly increased in the last few years, with morein-depth specific application and associated commercial discussions than seenat previous exhibitions. There was significant interest in the use of SAFin the manufacture of agro-textiles and performance apparel.
Performance Apparel
Over the past few years, TAL has increased its experience in the performance apparel market and has already helped develop three specific technologies perfect for this application; three-layer composite, phase-change material combination and heat and moisture management fabric.
Three-layer composite
TAL first developed the SAF based nonwoven coolant technology in 2005. Its first form was a specially blended combination of super absorbent fibres, in a revolutionary, patented, water-activated three-layer composite cooling fabric structure.
The unique and discreet fibre-entangled cooling core, is a specially blended combination of super absorbent hydrophilic and hydrophobic fibres, which are evenly distributed in the form of a low profile, lightweight nonwoven wadding. This is sandwiched between a quick drying, breathable outer-shell fabric, and a thermally conductive, wickable and water-repellent inner liner.
Simply soaking the core in water activates the cooling process, explains Mr Hill. An optimal and finite amount of water is then evenly absorbed, distributed and held by the SAF without dripping or becoming saturated or soggy. The composite fabric structure is designed to distribute and surround the water-charged core with air. This creates an ideal environment for evaporation.
The breathable outer-shell fabric promotes fast drying and moisture transfer and the inner, thermally-conductive liner promotes the escape of body heat. It does this by exchanging the heat for soothing, cooling comfort, while acting as a membrane to retain the moisture inside the core and stop the lining from feeling damp or wet.
An example of an end-use application is the OASIS Coolbreeze Cooling Caps, which have been developed by TAL.
Evaporative cooling is the principle thermoregulatory cooling process provided by the caps and works like perspiration. As water evaporates from a surface, heat is absorbed in order to change the liquid to vapour, continues Mr Hill. Due to the heat of water vaporisation, evaporation from a liquid surface is an extremely effective natural cooling mechanism.
Once the caps are activated, heat passes directly from the head through to the inner lining and into the core. This is driven by the difference in temperature between the body and the cooling cap.
The combination of fibres in the core ensures a slow, controlled release of moisture over a period of time. The heat is carried with it resulting in hours of cooling comfort. This form of evaporation is so effective, it is estimated that evaporating 1g of water dissipates seven-times as much heat as melting the same quantity of ice.
Conductive cooling also occurs when the heat passes directly from the body to the water-activated core, acting as a sink or thermal radiator. Again, this mechanism is driven by the difference in temperature between the body and the cooling cap but delivers less cooling and doesnt last as long.
Phase-change material combination
The success of the three-layer composite cooling fabric and TALs proven experience of coolant technology-made SAF the super absorbent solution of choice for a new line of cricketing headgear inspired by cricketer Charlton Lamb.
Combined with a phase-change material, the aim of the caps, helmets and ultimately clothing, is to limit heating up of the body and minimise sweating.
Products incorporating phase-change technology continuously interact with the unique microclimate of the human body, and the environment, to moderate temperature from being too hot or too cold.
The combination of the two materials in applications from head to foot was patented last summer. Since then, negotiations have begun with a major American manufacturer of baseball caps for teams and fans.
The phase-change material must have an optimum level at which it can absorb heat, comments Mr Hill. If that is surpassed, the result is sweating. However, the introduction of SAF means this is soaked up. The process is similar to that of the cooling caps, whereby there must be a continuous exchange of heat.
New avenues are also being explored. We need to exploit the fact that the technology behind both products means that the performance of phase-change material and SAF can be optimised to meet customers exact requirements.
Heat and moisture management yarn technology
TALs latest stride into coolant technology is a super absorbent durable yarn (KoolSorb) which is currently undergoing patenting for use in heat and moisture management fabric.
Many and varied attempts have been made to make clothes which may assist the body to keep dry and at a constant 70F and 60% relative humidity, explains Mr Hill. These clothes have limited success due to constant changes in human activity and the effect that has on perspiration rates. There is the additional problem of hot and cold parts of the body and the need to design a system where air is allowed to circulate.
However, fabrics made using this new yarn technology will rapidly absorb sweat, so that the material in touch with the skin is relatively dry. It will also to conduct heat away from the hotter parts of the body, and provide channels for air and water vapour to move away from areas of high humidity. This type of technology is ideal for undergarments worn next to the skin by military and emergency service personnel.
The yarn itself consists of a number of fibre technologies, in combination with SAF, which has specific properties and construction that stimulate the dissipation of heat and moisture. Primarily, this is to avoid discomfort to the wearer when dressed in stab or bullet proof vests, wet suits and diving gear. Excess perspiration is rapidly drawn away from the skin. When wet, the yarn would also increase its thermal conductivity assisting the movement of heat from hot spots. The yarn construction ensures that it offers a high level of durability. This technology offers great potential for fabric development in the management of Hyperhydrosis.
It is important to note that this project is still in the development phase at the moment, admits Dave. TAL is currently looking at different fabric construction options with the main focus on achieving maximum efficiency of heat and moisture transfer.
TALs development team is also in the initial stages of investigating the technologys potential in outdoor and sports apparel. The market for performance apparel as a sportswear has seen a growth rate of 19.4% over the last four years and is expected to rise from $6.40billion to $7.6billion by 2014 (Fibre2Fshion, November 2009). These figures are extremely encouraging.
Consumers are becoming more aware of keeping cool while taking exercise inside and out. KoolSorb is an ideal technology for use in the manufacture of clothing that can offer such coolant benefits, and TAL is currently working with development partners to create a thinner, washable yarn structure specifically for this purpose.
Summary
The mission of TAL is to offer a truly world-class level of innovation, development and supply of absorbent products to meet the needs of current and prospective customers. A focus on delivering excellent service and technical support has taken the company to the forefront of the industry.
We enjoy working with different parties to develop new opportunities and markets, finishes Dave. The performance apparel sector is just one area where there is huge potential for future growth.
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